Anti-fouling report and prop question

[Twister_Ken]

Das boot came out yesterday, having been in since early April , with no mid-season scrub. Most of the time spent in a Lymington marina, and not been to sea since mid-Oct.

Heavy brown slime, which came off with a light wipe and some slight staining around the top inch or two below water. No actual growth of anything resembling vegetation.

Antifouling was two coats of Blakes Titan.

BUT, following advice here, I did nothing to the prop except coat it with vaseline. It came out somewhat resembling a coral reef, with a strata of barnacles and 'tunnels' (no idea what they're called for real), surmounted by a garden of jelly like 'squirters', each about half an inch across and half an inch high. Some quick work with a paint scraper and the hi-pressure hose revealed there was actually a prop under there. One good thing about vaseline - there are various screws and allen screws on the stern gear and the rope cutter. The heads of these were filled with vaseline which is still there - last year i had to scrape the screw heads clear before I could release them.

Given that the prop is some sort of brass/bronze and that copper-based a/f is not recommended for electrolytic reasons, what prop treatment would the cognoscenti suggest next season?

 

[claymore]

Hello Ken
I've used International MPX boot-topping for the past 2 seasons and am pleased with the results.
regards
John S

 

[brian_neale]

I had a similar result at the end of the season, the boat having sat unused in Ocean Village, Southampton for longer than I would have liked. The slime came off easily, but there was so much growth on the prop that when I motored out from the pontoon I had to go back and check why the performance was so much down - and that was noticeable on a heavy 16' gaffer! I was able to chip off most of the growth with the end of the boat hook, but I have never seen it so bad.

Global warming or alien invaders?

 

[billmacfarlane]

The guy who commissioned my boat used antifoul on the sail drive leg. When I asked about this he said it was an International metal free antifoul. Might be worth investigating.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

I use an italian paint which, one claims, is 'made for the mediterranean'. The pontoon is right in the innermost part of the marina but the only growth that I normally get is a couple of 'tube' coral. Make sure that whatever you use is specially made for propellors (obvious but surprisingly often ignored). I found out the hard way that the most important part is PREPARATION which consists of ABRADING (120 grit) followed by thorough DE-GREASING (Acetone). As soon as the acetone evaporates I apply two or three coats of primer and the following day I apply the paint proper. The final coat is left for at least two days to fully cure. The paint is by NUBIAN and the type is called "Per Eliche" - which means "For Propellors". It's available in some colours; I use white. My boat goes out of the water for only 4 or 5 weeks in May and does not get much use in winter. Naturally, other people swear by / at other brands. Don't cut corners in preparation and most types should be O.K.

Wally

 

[johnmuir]

I use International hard antifouling which is recommended on tin for outdrives and prop. Had similar problem when, on advice didn't treat new prop and boat wasn't used for few weeks one season. On liftout a few months later had a complete ecosystem attached to prop. No problems since painting. Doesn't look as good but hopefully one doesn't see much of prop during sailing season!

 

[jerry_jones]

Has anyone tried the Prop Protector lanolin-based goo? I was tempted but gave in and used the normal Hard Racing antifoul this season.

 

[Guest]

As I have a folding prop, I've always used grease liberaly applied (mucky job) and it seems to do the trick. There again, as the boat goes racing, I will dry out and clean the bottom every six weeks minimum.

The simple answer is to use the thing and don't let it vegitate (excuse the pun!) in marinas.

 

[chippie]

After talking to an old timer who swore by it , I intend to use lanacote on my bronze prop when the boat is hauled out. He said that he polished it with very fine emery paper and then simmered it in the stuff.His prop looked good to me as he had just hauled the boat. I think it is quite important to find what works well in your home waters.

 

[waterrat365]

I've used all of the above, with moderately OK results from everything, from May, when I go into the water, until about July, when it starts to foul. Grease based coverings work best for removing growth, but have to be cleaned by hand every month or so. Just use a plastic scraper. Hard, paint types work but only up to about July, after which they don't work at all. Think about it: if copper leaches out of a boat under way, imagine how much leaches out when the prop is moving thousands of times faster, over say, 100 hours a season. What I currently use is something called "stove polish", a water based waxy goo containing, mostly, carbon lamp black. Extremely messy to apply, but I put on 3 coats, polishing between coats. 1st, start with a clean, shinny prop, then apply stove polish. The copper is slippery as anything, giving little adhesion for growth. Usual;ly, I'm OK until August with this, then I have to clean it every 4 to 6 weeks until I come out opf the water in October. When something does stick to the prop, it comes off with your hand. And finally, the copper creates a battery with the bronze of your prop which repulses growth. BTW, I've noticed no electrolytic brop loss in the 3 years I've used this method. Previously, I've used hard paint- no luck; and lanolin based baby bum pointment containing zinc oxide. It worked until July. After July, the prop looked like a science project. Happy sailing, Cliff Moore, SV PELORUS, USA

 

[philip_stevens]

Has anyone used Teflon based non-stick type antifoulings on their bronze prop and stainless steel prop shaft? Isn't it VC10 or something?

If so, what was the result?

regards,
Philip

 

[charles_reed]

Propellor antifoul

I find that if I clean and polish the prop (using a 3M fine metal polish pad like an oversize pot-scourer) it stays relatively clean, for about 9 months.

However the prop is used extensively but the water is much warmer than the UK. (I recorded 28C last August up a river) the latter (use in fresh water as well as sea) is probably one of the reasons I have no problem.

Some Med types swear by International Micron 33 which certainly works on outdrive legs.

Two years ago the general consensus on this same subject appeared to be that grate (like in fires) blacking was the least expensive and least inefficient prop antifouling.

There is probably no definitive answer - it's a fact of life with which one has to live.