Little Ricky
Well-Known Member
All these lovely, comfy helm seats, but do skippers actually use them to sit on as often as they think. Has anyone here gotten rid of their seat, in favour of a bolster/bar stool type set up?
Antares 760 thread
- Thread starter Jamie Dundee
- Start date
Plum
Well-Known Member
No, and do not see the need to change.
Little Ricky
Well-Known Member
No need to flip the seat to create space for the wet bar behind, also when reversing its easier to see behind and get comfy when looking 180 degrees. There are always reasons.
zikzik
Well-Known Member
Hi John. I’m guessing you are the same who recently wrote a piece for PBO magazine after taking your 760 to Plymouth… If so, it was very good. Well done.
The images indicate a raymarine autopilot drive on the wheel. I’m looking at these in the absence of anything else at less than a Kings ransom. Are you pleased with it?
tomaz_slo
Well-Known Member
After all effort I didn't find 8mm gypsy for my windlass Leroy Somer S801 so I am looking for complete new unit. And found this product that could be best alternative. What do you think?
Lofrans Razza
Lofrans Razza
John Willis
Active Member
Sorry if I haven't replied earlier. Yes, I find the Raymarine Wheelpilot is perfect for the boat and use it all the time. The stress on the unit is minimal compared to a sailing boat, so it should easily handle the loads. It also has a rudder angle indicator, which is useful
zikzik
Well-Known Member
Thanks John.
Plum
Well-Known Member
Hi, I have no experience of that winch but it looks good and the all stainless steel construction is appealing. Previously, I saw this one on a other 760 which looked like a good fit but I now like your choice!
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Plum
Well-Known Member
If you go ahead and fit the Lofrans Razza windlass, do you have a plan for your existing Leroy Somer one? Mine needs a replacement aluminium casing due to corrosion.
zikzik
Well-Known Member
I have noticed my LR windlass has flaking paint. Is yours more than that Plum?
My main problem is that it doesn’t work though!! I suspect the LT wiring or solenoid. I’ve found the 40 amp fuse on the engine bay forward bulkhead. Thats ok. Any ideas where and what the solenoid is, or looks like?
My main problem is that it doesn’t work though!! I suspect the LT wiring or solenoid. I’ve found the 40 amp fuse on the engine bay forward bulkhead. Thats ok. Any ideas where and what the solenoid is, or looks like?
Plum
Well-Known Member
Yes, I keep scraping of the loose paint and touching up but I would like to get a half decent casing to renovate properly and then swap. Knowing how likely threads will strip when Stainless bolts are in aluminium I don't want to risk trying to dismantle mine without a fallback.
Relay box is the lower white box in picture below with the circuit breaker to the left of it.
If you have a switch at the helm that works that will eliminate the buttons on top of the winch, otherwise you can hot-wire the relays after opening up the relay box.
Plum
Well-Known Member
On mine, the winch is fed from a 75a circuit breaker
zikzik
Well-Known Member
Thanks Plumb, I’ll look tomorrow when back on the boat. I haven’t noticed that lower white box, but there’s a black one i’ll look more closely into.
What does the small black unit with the red button? I keep wondering. Or is that the circuit breaker you refer to?
What does the small black unit with the red button? I keep wondering. Or is that the circuit breaker you refer to?
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Plum
Well-Known Member
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tomaz_slo
Well-Known Member
I'll keep in mind.. For know, I am only thinking about..
zikzik
Well-Known Member
Thanks. There is no click felt pressing it with or without the engine running, so I’ve spoken to an electrical engineer member at my club today, he says 90% plus of winch issues relate to the solenoid or a bad earth. So I’ve asked him to look at it for me.
In the meantime I plan to change out the old mains breaker/charger box for a new consumer unit. The charger was defunct anyway and a victron 12/12/30amp charger fitted. That all works but it’s bulky. I plan to split the twin battery set up as well as they are just wired in parallel. I’d rather have a house battery option. Maybe just swap to a 0-1-2-both switch would be easiest.
zikzik
Well-Known Member
I looked closely at mine today. My guess is that casing was powder coated originally. It might be worth looking around to have it stripped and re-done?