Anchor windlass advice

[Andrew_B]

I am going to install an electric anchor windlass this winter but I'm not sure yet exactly which type I should be looking at.Ideally I would prefer a horizontal model but the only place I could install it would leave the motor in the anchor locker with a plastic box surrounding it.Is this too exposed? Should the motor ideally be mounted through the deck outside the anchor locker?
Another option might be a compact above deck model but I have yet to see one capable moving 10mm chain +18kg CQR+ 5.5 tonnes of boat (probably nearer 6.5 tonnes when cruising) that wouldnt take up too much deck space.
Also I have been looking at 1000w models - Is this the right size? (I would rather over do the power than burn the thing out)

Any advice welcome before I go and spend the dosh.

Many thanks

Andrew


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[tony_brighton]

I had the same thought process for our Bav 34 - in the end phoned Opal's and asked what they fit as std - happens to be a Lofrans Cayman88 1000W for a slightly lighter boat than yours. It will be mounted on a shelf in the anchor well. Do you know what is fitted as std on your boat?

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Robin]

An exposed or only splash protected motor in the anchor locker isn't a good idea. We used to have an on-deck Lofrans Cayman 1000w on a W33 (6,800kgs, 45lb anchor and 10mm chain) and it was excellent. Current 41ft boat has a Simson Lawrence Horizon (also good, similar ground tackle) fitted in the anchor locker on a shelf. The only drawback with the anchor locker mount is that there is not enough room under for the chain to self-stow properly, it will build a little volcano and occasionally jam. This is irritating but not a real problem once you are used to it, since all that is needed is to prod the pile with the release lever, foot, hand/whatever before it gets too high. Make sure your chain exactly matches the windlass gypsy, when we fitted the Cayman we bought the Lofrans chain to match, since we were replacing the original anyway.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Talbot]

I have gone for a Lofrans Airon 1000w for my 10mm chain (30m chain 45m anchorplait). My problem was that I cannot mount it on the centreline, so I am going to install a bow roller mounted vertically to angle the chain round to the windlass.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Andrew_B]

Unfortunately Tony my boat was never designed to have a windlass.Its a 1983 Hunter Legend 34 and though the anchor locker is quite wide and long it is very shallow - 450mm at front and 300mm at rear.
What ever type I decide to mount I will have to experiment with different ways of making sure the chain doesnt build up and jam the windlass.
If its just too difficult then there is room to cut a hole in the bottom of the locker and have a pipe leading to an extra void below which could be used.Below this there is yet another void which leads under the Vee berth.If I lead the chain here it would put the weight lower in the boat but the only way I could drain the space would be with a bilge pump and I am not sure if thats a good idea or not.

Andrew


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[AndrewB]

Sounds about right to me.

It depends a good deal on what type of anchoring you do. The deeper the water, and the more exposed, then the more power you need. But on my experience, given your specs 1000w should be quite adequate for most situations, specially if you are careful to use the engine to ease the load during recovery, and 'rest' the windlass during heavy recoveries (a pawl arrangement is useful here - some of the cheaper models don't have one).

Note there is quite a bit of variation between the makes in the claimed power of their 1000w models.

I've no experience of an above deck model, but with a below deck one you definitely want some way of keeping the motor separated from the chain, whether or not you have a decent drop. I've twice lost motors due to the casing rusting and/or getting damaged. Otherwise this is a good system.

Incidentally I currently have an SL Pacific V2000 windlass (1000w), 45lb CQR, 100m of 10mm chain, 10 ton yacht. Its worked well, but I've been looking for a slightly more powerful replacement.

 

[charles_reed]

Whether you have a vertical or horizontal mounted windlass depends first and foremost on which will ensure the chain self-stows.
This is the most critical design factor with an electric windlass.
Horizontal mounts tend to be more popular - one less thing on which to stub your toe (or be tripped overboard).
On most horizontal models the motor does need reasonable protection.
A 1000 watt model is about right for your chain and boat size.
Deck mounted winches with epoxy coatings have a definite limited life (about 8 years).

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[PeterGibbs]

I have had a Simpson Lawrence 1000 (equiv) for six years. I can recommend it for your purposes:

1. If there is any chance of waves filling the anchor locker or space you are stowing the windlass, you may not proceed. The damage would be terminal. Only the barrell can withstand the weather; the motor housing must be dry.

2. The chain drop from the drum has to be clear into the locker with no chance to foul. Otherwise stowing problems could put you and the boat in peril.

3. The windlass is not suitable for use as a sampson post - the chain when deployed has to be secured to a proper anchorage - cleat etc. The strain of a deployed anchor will otherwise wreck the gear. The chain flow must be able to be belayed to a strong point without loosing too many fingers in the process. So watch for alignment - not necessarily on the centre line therefore. I have a thick rope with an anchor hook on one end, and just lock this on the chain and connect the other end to the main mooring cleat, so resting the load from the windlass itself.

4. I have a hand held control, that plugs in below deck in the anchor locker, which has an opening lid. I regard this as far superior to deck studs to operate, for safety, for ease of installation etc etc.

5. You don't say, but this is DIY technology. DO install very heavy guage wire from the service battery; not cheap! Avoid having a dedicated battery in the bows just for the anchor - far better to draw from the main bank.

6. Do not make the bitter end of your chain, which must be calibrated chain of course - not common chain - fast to the boat - you could loose a big chunk of your forward hull in extremis. Better to cut it loose and buoy,and recover later, if the situation arises.

7. Your forward bow roller will take some punishment when you are raising anchor in strong conditions. Is it up to it? If it buckles and fails in use the anchor will be jammed.

Otherwise, a windlass is terrific. Go for it.


Good luck

<hr width=100% size=1>