anchor weight limit for a 24''

Uber,

You left out the Bruce which is obviously the best anchor. Because I use one and like it.

More to the point, jackstays.

I have a 22' boat, and by far the best solution that I've found personally is a stainless 'U' bolt ( I like the Wichard make ) fitted with a very large backing pad of wood & stainless - penny washers at least - just to each side of the mast foot.

A standard harness line can be left clipped on to there and led aft, so that it's within easy reach of the cockpit to clip oneself onto before going on deck.

At the other extreme, literally, I can reach from there to the bow pulpit to handle sails etc ( I use hanked headsails, but those with rollers will be there anyway sorting out jams, which only happen in awkward weather ) while still clipped on, and it's tight inboard to give the most chance of recovering if I did get washed overboard.

I do completely agree to the 3-point harness line, I use one and if going forward particularly I clip the second line to the windward guardrail eye of the pulpit when I get there.

This needs to be checked for reach on individual boats though.

I've been on boats with wire jackstays - they really do roll under one's feet or trip up; and webbing lines soon reach a point of not being entirely trustworthy through U/V degradation and wear through salt crystals, sand etc, also trip one up ( kinder to hands than wire though if hanging on ) so debatable value having them...
 
have seen quite a few fans here of the CQR's, but have to be honest and say in the past year, I'd heard and read they they might not be as good as originally claimed?

how would they stand up against, say, [as melandnick* suggested] a Bruce or Cobra?

*hello mate!

Hey Mate

Just to clarify:
I said a Delta or Kobra
I've got a CQR and Bruce at the moment and would not trust the scuff boat to either of them ( that is if you hadn't sunk it first! )
You have a CQR copy at the moment and you know how good that was.
:rolleyes:

Nick
 
Thanks for the info on the Jackstays, I'll pick your brains further nearer the time I finally get the boat into the water!

Talking of CQR copies! Would this be a genuine one or a copy? How can you tell?

IMG_2256.jpg


I think I know your answer already...........
 
Thanks for the info on the Jackstays, I'll pick your brains further nearer the time I finally get the boat into the water!

Talking of CQR copies! Would this be a genuine one or a copy? How can you tell?

Anything can be faked, of course, but as far as I am aware no CQR copies were made in Scotland, so that's probably a Simpson-Lawrence. What is the weight? S-L made proper forged CQRs in nice round weights like 15, 20, 25, 30 ... lb and cheaper cast versions which to avoid confusion, had fractional weights like 19 3/4 lb.
 
Thanks "Uby" good to know! This one is new also, the other one has been used. I'll stick with these as they are probably the right weight for a 2.3 tonne 26 footer but they also have specific fittings on the deck for them. My computer is playing up so cannot do a search do they still make them? This forum is the only thing that is coming up on screen at the moment :(
 
Oh god. You've done it now. You might as well have drawn a pentagram and chucked some burning incense around.

Here's a summary of the next hundred posts. Many people find a CQR fine, as long as it's big enough. Many people find Mansons fine, as long as they are big enough. Many people find Rocnas fine, as long as they're big enough. Many people find Deltas fine, as long as they're big enough. In all cases big enough means big enough to be fine.

Various people will tell you that some anchors are better than others. Ignore those of them who are actually trying to sell you an anchor and those trying to justify their own recent purchases, but do listen to those who have a boat similar to yours in the same area as yours.

Remember, though, that any design of anchor, from a Bugel to a lump of rock or a railway wheel, works perfectly well if it's big enough. By definition.

OK lads, pile in.


The idea now seems to be that you can compensate for lack of weight in an anchor by clever design.

According to Eric Hiscock, writing in 'Cruising Under Sail', (a man who seems to have known what he was about), an anchor should weigh at least 30 pounds, otherwise it won't penetrate reliably. He favoured the the genuine CQR and, because they don't make a 30 pounder, that means using the next size up , i.e. 35 pounds. (which is what I use, so far without any problems).

It's a pity he died before the Rocna came on the market because we will never know if he would have reduced his minimum weight recommendation having had experience of it.
 
The idea now seems to be that you can compensate for lack of weight in an anchor by clever design.

That's not a new concept. I happily leave Jumblie moored to a one ton railway wheel but I anchor her with a 20lb CQR. Even if 20lb railway wheels existed, they wouldn't make very good anchors.

The relationship between size, weight and holding power is interesting. For example, the tests I have seen suggest that a Fortress has about the same holding power as a Danforth of the same size - but of course of much higher weight, since the Fortress is aluminium and the Danforth is steel. It would be interesting to know whether an aluminium Bugel/Manson type would work well.
 
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Uber,

(snip)
More to the point, jackstays.

I have a 22' boat, and by far the best solution that I've found personally is a stainless 'U' bolt ( I like the Wichard make ) fitted with a very large backing pad of wood & stainless - penny washers at least - just to each side of the mast foot.

(snip)...

Word of warning - I think it was the report of the '79 Fastnet disaster that pointed out that U-clips could lead to safety lines self-releasing if they roll over & trip. That's why current clip designs have a secondary locking bar to preven accidental tripping. There is also a risk if force is put on the clip/u-bolt combination when they are locked at an angle as there are very high sideways forces applied that can shear the clip or the bolt.

I presume yours are safety locked & strong enough to withstand high sideways shock loads, but if a newcomer isn't aware of the issue, their kit might not be up to it.
 
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