Anchor Shackles:whats the best ?

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sailingrbg

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What is the best type of shackle to attach the anchor to the chain the arrangement I situation I have at present is not too good in that you the shackle will not run through the bow roller additionally how do you know that the shackle is rated for the weight of the boat etc. etc. I have a swivel attached to the anchor before the chain but after an article in the yachting press last year I am considering placing 3 or 4 links of chain from the anchor to the swivel as recommended ( additionally it will help in storing the anchor as the current only just fits.Any advice gratefully received

Is there any shackle that the screw in lug on the shackles is capitve i.e. does not protrude from the side anyone any comments on this type?
 
You can get shackles with countersunk allen head pins if that helps. Of course you cannot mouse the pin like the normal sort of shackle. One option is to torque the pin properly with a good dose of medium grade threadlock.
 
This is one of (the boatowners) great life issues - how to attach the anchor to the chain. Like you I cannot use a straightforward shackle because of the width of the bow roller. I've gone therefore for the anchor connector option but searching out what is said to be high quality equipment. I'm using a galvanised Kong anchor connector which has a tested SWL of 2,000kgs. I've considered a high quality (Wichard) shackle with an allen key style pin - but the inability to seize the pin (other than using thread glue) is not good for a decent nights sleep. But then the same can be said for the bolts holding the Kong together...he said whilst wringing his hands......
 
1) down-size anchor, chain and shackle so that lockwired shackle will operate with stem head.
2) Use the biggest shackle possible with the csk head or with pin cut off flush. Tighten with loctite as above then drill through threaded bit and insert locking pin/wire.
3) get the shackle welded up.
4) stake the threads of the shackle with a centre punch.
5) since right hand threads always work loose, get a left handed shackle

I'll trust the loctite!
 
I have finally solved this problem, only this spring.
A shackle is available that has a standard cross head csk at one end (in place of the standard "mouse ear with hole". It is designed so 1 - 1 1/2 threads stick out the other end, when tight. Buy two.
Choose a pin size that just fits 1) The chain and 2) The anchor; conveniently this is normally a size up on your chain eg 6mm chain 8mm shackle.
Join your chain and anchor with the two shackles. Do up tight. Rivet the ends of the pins over with an engineers hammer.
Whole problem solved. Simple, easy, cheap and no trick fittings to worry about. With luck this will clear your bow roller, and what is more tends to orientate your anchor into the correct aspect as it mounts the roller.
 
Torpedo joiner.

Basically two halves of a long torpedo shape and two screw pins. Once screwed up - it's locked and width is similar to anchor chain.

ie : Anchor connector

Only thing thought this is Stainless steel and not advised for galvanised system use ... but similar in Galv are available.
As to swivel in chain to anchor connection ... Why ? Serves no purpose as unlike a ship that needs anchor to rotate as it stows - a yachts anchor is free stowed. In fact putting a swivel IMHO is a weak point.
 
lw395 said:
You can get shackles with countersunk allen head pins if that helps. Of course you cannot mouse the pin like the normal sort of shackle. One option is to torque the pin properly with a good dose of medium grade threadlock.
Click to expand...

Use centre punch to lock the pin in by stricking the thread end between where the pin and the shackle body OR get screw or allen screw trim it so that it is just slightly over long and then rivet over or deform the tread end so that it cannot undo.
 
It's well over a year since this thread appeared but the question remains relevant. I have done more testing on locking the countersunk pins in shackles and swivels. Loctite 243 works well, is not affected by immersion in seawater and has held my pins and screws safely. I left one screw in place for two seasons after which its unscrewing torque was no different from the single season ones.

FWIW after doing the tests on shackles, swivels and C-links I dumped my old chain which had two C-links in it and replaced with a single length. I use Wichard 17/4 PH countersunk shackles and a Kong swivel. If contemplating using C-links the Crosby and ACCO ones intended for hoisting applications are the only ones that come anywhere near the strength of the chain.
 
vyv_cox said:
It's well over a year since this thread appeared but the question remains relevant. I have done more testing on locking the countersunk pins in shackles and swivels. Loctite 243 works well, is not affected by immersion in seawater and has held my pins and screws safely. I left one screw in place for two seasons after which its unscrewing torque was no different from the single season ones.

FWIW after doing the tests on shackles, swivels and C-links I dumped my old chain which had two C-links in it and replaced with a single length. I use Wichard 17/4 PH countersunk shackles and a Kong swivel. If contemplating using C-links the Crosby and ACCO ones intended for hoisting applications are the only ones that come anywhere near the strength of the chain.
Click to expand...

Hi Vyv - sitting in Athens Airport at 1:30 am!
I have a problem keeping the monel metal mousing wire on. It get bust when the Manson digs in in stony ground - and just grinds off the seizing. I now have a electric cable tie, and check it each time I launch. I will get some Locktite 243 I think as well!
 
craigsmith said:
www.rocna.com/kb/Shackles
Click to expand...
When the OP has said that he is struggling with certain shackles, posting a link to your website is not very helpful, as your website's 'advice' points to the very shackles which he has said won't fit the his bow roller.

Of course it also raises your anchoring web site's profile again in the forum, or am I being cynical Craig?

For editorial balance, perhaps this website might have some advice?

http://www.spade-anchor.co.uk/

(PS I was tempted to put the link in instead of yours in the quote, but I thought that might be a teensy weeny bit too antagonistic... PPS Are you sure you can't get even more web links to your dad's product in your posts?. PPPS Have you worked out that I was a little bit irritated by your post yet?)
 
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snooks said:
In the destructive test YM ran (wot Vyv wrote) Kong came out on top.

What do I have? Kong :)
Click to expand...

I also have Kong, but there have been numerous reported failures of them. They fail when the jaws spread under repeated side loading.

I have the giant sized (and giant priced) one, which I hope will be more resistant to the jaw-spreading problem as a result of its sheer massiveness.

The other scary thing about Kong connectors is that the pins are loktited in place, rather than being seized.

Much preferable to any kind of swivel is the regular galvanized green pin type recommended by a broad consensus of the experts from Craig on down, with the pin seized with Monel wire. IF it fits your bow roller and works for you.
-
The regular green pin shackle did NOT work for me. So I had no choice -- my anchor would not retrieve without a swivel and the pins on the regular shackles fouled my forestay fitting.

So I went with Kong, which has a great advantage for people like me with fouling problems, in that they are bullet-shaped and absolutely smooth with nothing to catch on your bow roller or stemhead fitting.

By the way, no need to fear stainless in this application in combination with galvanized chain. It's not under water continuously so no reaction.
 
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This is how you avoid the side load problem
P1020411.jpg

Some may say 'why have the swivel at all?' I find have found it useful for some years and originally bought one when I read in my windlass instructions that they recommended one. I have bought a new windlass, arrived this week. It also says fit a swivel.
 
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