Anchor locker

[Tank]

Need some advise Gents
The drainage hole in my anchor well is about 1 inch above the floor of the well, leaves me with permanent water in the well which my rope sits in, not good, apart from drilling another hole through my hull which I do not want to do, how do I raise the floor of the well to the level of the drainage hole?, some sort of self levelling scree maybe?
Thanks
Tank

 

[William_H]

I would drill another pair of holes into the hull. However if you are really against that then you have to fit a false floor which must be sealed to keep water out of the void it will create. Not easy. Lay up fibreglass on a flat smooth surface with cling wrap or similar plastic sheet for release. Mark the size and shape of the bottom and lay the resin inside those marks so that you have a flap of clean f/glass all around the edges. When it is hard remove from the flat surface and fit to the anchor locker at the desired level. Use the flaps of glass to bond to the walls of the locker.
If you are clever you might make shaped channels to the existing holes and even a mound in the centre to direct water out to the holes. But still I say drill more holes and fill the old holes. olewill

 

[Tranona]

Need some advise Gents
The drainage hole in my anchor well is about 1 inch above the floor of the well, leaves me with permanent water in the well which my rope sits in, not good, apart from drilling another hole through my hull which I do not want to do, how do I raise the floor of the well to the level of the drainage hole?, some sort of self levelling scree maybe?
Thanks
Tank

That is quite common and sensible. Unless the new holes are well above the waterline you will probably suffer from water flooding in when sailing. It is common to use a plastic grating in the bottom of the locker to keep the chain out of the small amount of standing water.

 

[Neeves]

Anchor lockers appear to be designed by chain makers to ensure that the chain corrodes as quickly as possible.

Much depends on the shape of the bottom of your locker - if its an inverted pyramid, or some variant, then adding 1" is not going to be difficult and I'd just use resin (I'm imagining a tiny inverted pyramid of new resin). If its bigger, than tiny, then you might want to think of still adding resin but do this with the vessel 'tipped up' so that the new floor slopes toward the existing hole, then it will self drain. You can do this when you slip the boat, simply raise the stern or bow, whichever is appropriate. If you are concerned at the amount of resin, so its a much bigger void than I am imagining, go and buy some foam, for glass fibreing) cut to shape, put a hard layer of glass and resin to seal it and adhere with Sika, or something similar.

I would then line the base with a fibreglass grating - the sort of thing you might find on marina pontoons - try Lockers, I think they might sell something, or google 'fibreglass grating', this sort of thing http://www.engineered-composites.co...MIjuzmytCs2QIVxwQqCh1AJwgaEAAYASAAEgKV2vD_BwE The grating will allow the chain to drain and dry out.

Try to wash down with fresh water, whenever you wash the deck down, it will get rid of salt and mud, keep the locker lid open when you anchor, it allows the locker to 'air' and if its raining - will wash the chain. Check the drain hole does not get blocked - I know of 2 separate incidences when people completely filled their lockers with seawater.

Jonathan

edit

I should add - our anchor locker, in a catamaran, has a flat, but gently sloping base to a drain hole in each corner. We have lifted our chain off the floor using a rubber door mat, its about 20mm thick, perforated and with a dimpled base, so it sits about 2mm (that's the size of the dimples) of the locker base - allowing drainage.

But the tipping up to allow cast resin to develop a sloping drainage was used by a friend and I would have used Lockers fibreglass grating (available here in Oz) but I did not know till recently that it existed.

 

[cpedw]

I made a grid out of short lengths of 40mm plastic waste pipe. The pieces are arranged with their axis vertical. They are held together by lots of cable ties through holes drilled near the ends of the lengths. Adjust the shape to fit the locker with a sharp knife or a junior hacksaw. It's surprisingly robust.

No irreversible surgery is needed on your pride and joy. Costs less than a fiver. Doesn't take long to assemble/fit. Just remember to tie some string to it so you can easily retrieve it during the final steps of shaping it.

Derek

 

[Yngmar]

It was explained to me the reason why the holes are above the floor is to prevent any mud or other debris from clogging them, which makes some sense (at least until the mud level rises high enough in the anchor locker). I've solved the issue by cutting pieces from a thick rubber grass protection mat (the kind you see around festival walkways) and stacking them in the bottom of the locker. Now the chain sits on top of the rubber, the drain function works as designed but the chain is dry.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

It was explained to me the reason why the holes are above the floor is to prevent any mud or other debris from clogging them, ......

That would make sense to me, mine is at the bottom and it clogs frequently requiring a poke with a wire to clear it.

To the OP, as others have said, make a grid or something for the rope to sit on that holds it clear of the base / drain level.

 

[Neeves]

I can see the reasoning behind the mud in the locker and the drain hole being slightly higher, but 1" is a lot of mud! I'd seriously suggest washing the locker out as often as you wash the deck, in fact - do it at the same time. If you are on a pontoon, discharge the chain and wash chain and locker (more difficult if you are on a swing mooring (as we are - wash locker with seawater when you anchor and then rinse with fresh when possible, or use rainwater, see earlier post). Mud will hold moisture and even if you have a grating the water will evaporate, condense on the chain - good conditions for corrosion. Mud can be acidic - which will attack the gal.

Jonathan