Anchor chain 8mm or 10mm

[Neeves]

When we received our new windlass I disassembled it in the comfort of home, so that I was aware how to service it and when re-assembled I coated all the stainless bolts with Duralac. It had a little sight glass in the gear box which allowed you to check the oil without removing the windlass from its housing.

I'm sure if anyone wanted to use 6mm chain then Lofrans will have a windlass with the appropriate gypsy (which might be the same windlass as they sell for 8mm chain, with an 8mm gypsy)

Jonathan.

 

[eddystone]

I thought Tefgel was preferred to Duralac for bolts that might have to be removed because the latter has adhesive well as anti corrosion properties

 

[eddystone]

Lofrans Cayman 1000w - that makes sense as others apparently have replaced with Tigres(s?) which is 1500w and therefore needed heavier duty cables

 

[Neeves]

I thought Tefgel was preferred to Duralac for bolts that might have to be removed because the latter has adhesive well as anti corrosion properties

The adhesive characteristics of Duralac are nothing to shout about, its not a replacement for Loctite . When we installed I did not have any Tufgel, but had a big tube of Duralac. Tufgel is very much less messy than Duralac (which tend to separate out in a tube). Either, or both, are being applied to minimise corrosion and I don't know which is better for the primary task - for a windlass it may not matter as servicing should be annual and either or both seem adequate in terms of a 12 month, plus or minus, time frame.

Lofrans Cayman 1000w - that makes sense as others apparently have replaced with Tigres(s?) which is 1500w and therefore needed heavier duty cables

Using a smaller motor could be an advantage of down sizing the chain (and cables). You could use smaller cables and use less power (so your battery requirements offer another saving). When we downsized we stayed with a 1000 watt motor. The chain is smaller but we all use the windlass, intentionally or otherwise, to pull the vessel toward the anchor and the chain might be lighter but the vessel is the same, in our case 7t, (which was why we kept to a 1,000 watt motor.)

Purists, and windlass makers, would say don't use the windlass to pull the yacht forward - but once the yacht is moving (toward the anchor) it does not take much to keep it moving - and if the windlass is going to be under strain - you have the wrong windlass (or installation) for its primary function.

If I were commissioning a new yacht, with 'smaller' chain, I would go for the smaller motor and cables (saves money), and try to use less of the windlass and more of the motor(s) to close the anchor. We always used the windlass with the motors running anyway.

We often beached and would deploy the anchor in the direction we wanted to retrieve, so to seaward. Prior to departing I would take the rode in by hand, so straightening the catenary and then use the catenary to pull the cat out of the seabed (so not using the windlass as such but straining the securement of the windlass to the structure).

Jonathan