analogue autohelm 1000 help?

[contessaman]

Dear all,

my electronic sort out continues. I have quite a new raymarine 2000 auto pilot which works well. Aboard my boat when I bought it was also an old analogue style autohelm 1000. (the very old one with the compass dial you turn to set course). It was in bits when I found it. I thought i'd try to repair it as a spare. I quickly found why it was in pieces - a wire had fallen off the motor. I have re soldered it and put it back together. The only question remains over a pulley, spring and line that was apparently rigged inside the unit. It works without it, but periodically overruns in one direction or an other, and has to be stripped and manually wound over. I can only assume that this internal rigging applied some sort of load that was electronically detected and prevented such overrun. I have been unable to source an exploded diagram from raytheon and would be very grateful if anybody out there knows how this should be set up either from working on one or inadvertantly seeing the insides of their unit. It certainly seems a shame to sling it when a bit of string and a spring properly applied could render it useable as a spare...

thanks in advance for any information.

contessaman

 

[Dipper]

Below are a couple of slightly blurred photos of the internals of my Autohelm 1000 which show the string arrangement. Tension is a matter of trial and error. You can't test it until the lid is on as this holds the spindle for the compass in place. When my line broke, I replaced it with whipping twine!

I have to take the unit apart again to repair a faulty switch so if you want any more/better photos please let me know.

 

[contessaman]

Dear dipper,

thankyou for your reply! that was very quick. I only joined this forum a month ago and I have received so much good help.

Im not exactly clear where the line goes from your picture. I have tried to attach a picture of mine - not sure if it has worked..

I gather the spring is fixed to the gear housing at one end. the other end of spring goes to a line. this passes around the fluxgate sensor housing, around the black puley that is fixed in location, but free to rotate, but then where?

is it to the base of the metal ram that moves in and out? such that when the arm motors out it pulls the line from the drum , which in turn pulls the line around the fluxgate unit, which in turn tensions the spring? is that correct?

I am missing both the line and the spring. I can easily source a spring of approx the right size by looking at yours. and you say whipping twine works for the line? I'll give it a go once you have confirmed the run of the string for me.

thanks so much again for your replies

 

[Dipper]

Contessaman

I should point out that when I originally restrung my Autohelm 15 years ago it was because the string had snapped so I didn't have an original to copy. The photos show the second restring carried out two years ago by my able crew under my guidance in a Force 6/7 approaching Portland Bill. Consequently it may not be correct but both our attempts worked!

I thought it best to open my Autohelm for another photo - see below. In the process, I dislodged the string so I have had the opportunity to restring it again which probably is quite a useful exercise.

The photo shows the string end attached under the stainless screw and washer which is fixed to the crossbar on the piston. I think I can make out the same screw in the bottom of your picture. The pictures in my original post show the string going to one side of the black block but it might have to go over the top as in the picture below - not easy to see.

The number of turns around the two sections of the pulley seems to be one less than the maximum possible. I think we decided space for a spare turn was needed to allow for rotation of the pulley without the string falling off. Also, the positioning of the notch in the pulley whilst restringing may be important. With the piston retracted the notch is in the position shown and this seems to work though it may not be correct.

The spring is 11cms length overall closed and 18.5cms open and can't quite reach the compass housing if moderately pulled to its maximum.

I hope this helps. Good luck. It certainly looks worth repairing.

 

[VicS]

I have never had the courage to open mine up. Put off by Autohelm saying that special tools are need to set the feed back when refittiing the case!

How does the controll knob come off. Presumably I have to peel off the compass rose and stick it back on afterwards.

If I had the courage I would open mine up and photograph the arrangement inside as whatever it is it has not been disturbed other than by Nautech.

 

[Dipper]

I heard you needed a jig to set it up correctly. I took that as a challenge.

Remove the six screws underneath which hold the two parts together. These have a special design so ordinary screwdrivers don't fit. I can't remember how I managed it at first but I think a bit of botching came into it. Once removed replace them with ordinary s/s screws or cut a notch in the top so a screwdriver blade fits.

At the compass rose end, the metal compass design is held on by a soft reusable adhesive so gently prise it off with a thin screwdriver taking care not to bend the plate - mine is a bit battered now. Then remove the screw. Leave the plastic disc in place for the moment as it holds the compass spindle vertical which is under tension from the spring.

At the switch end, there is a central plastic plug you can prise out with a jeweller's screwdriver. Underneath is a 'screw' which has notches at the edges but is hollow in the middle. Undo this as best you can then lift off the top of the switch.

Remove the compass rose disc then gently separate the two sides. The compass unit 'falls' over slightly due to the spring tension and will need realigning when you reassemble the unit but it is not excessive.

It would be great to see how it should have been done but don't risk wrecking yours in the process unless you want to know in case it fails whilst you are at sea.

 

[VicS]

Mine has ordinary slotted screws but I would never have guessed that the centre of the switch knob came out.

It appears to be leaking some oil out of the case where one of the screws fits so I guess I'm going to have to investigate that. I suppose it means the compass is leaking!

That'll be bu$$er. A few years back I would have welcomed the excuse to buy a new one but I was now rather hoping this one would see me out!

 

[contessaman]

VicS, please dont trash your autohelm on my account by opening it up! if its working leave it well alone!

you say oil is leaking from it? wont be from the 'compass' as its a fluxgate unit. most likely to be just grease used for sealing it up. there was a sponge soaked in grease around where the knob passes through the case.

Dipper - what you have provided is excellent(sorry it came apart during photography) -thanks. As for my unit - Its useless at the moment so I have nothing to loose and im sure a little playing around will see it working fine. I will report how I get on but it may be a while as I'm re-wiring my whole boat at the mo.

thanks all, contessaman

 

[Refueler]

I don't have the same AH1000 ... but have the later push-button version that doesn't have the string / spring affair etc.

But I was very pleased to see the above photos / explanation - it's worth saving the thread in case others have similar prob's.

Why I post on this thread ... with spares scarce and Raymarine so expensive for even looking at a unit - I bought a complete "Spares - Repair" unit that in fact worked but the mounting pin had broken it's ball mount in the case. That has proved a god-send ... Maybe it's worth you guys doing similar ?

One thing I wonder is whether the flux-gate compass from these units can be used for other purposes ? Could it provide heading feed for a GPS or other unit ? The AH1000 type I have is tiny ... self-gimballed etc.

 

[contessaman]

But I was very pleased to see the above photos / explanation - it's worth saving the thread in case others have similar prob's.

Sounds good... but how do we save or archive the thread? me computer biff!

autohelm plus spare autohelm definatley a godsend for me. When sailing my racing yacht when only me the mrs are on board it can steer, my wife can winch, leaving me to wresstle the luff tape into or out of the foil on the pitching foredeck..

I do believe there is a lot to be said for trying to repair old gear that one has on board. As dipper has illuded to - you might just need to effect such repairs at sea. I'd say one has a damn site better chance of success if he or she has already fixed it once before, in the warm and dry at home. Besides, if you're ever on the verge of throwing it away you may as well open it up and see how the thing works.

thanks again for all the pics chaps

 

[oldharry]

DONT THROW AWAY THE MOTOR! They arent made any more, there is no equivalent, and a good one is rare
as hens teeth!

 

[Dipper]

Autohelm restringing update

I thought the switch was broken which I 'mended' but I found out after trying it on the boat that one of the wires had parted inside the cable where it exits the unit. So I had to take it apart again but I have now worked out a better arrangement for the string. My original suggestion would work providing the Autohelm never extended beyond about 75% of maximum. After that the string would probably jam at the top of the small spindle.

I realised that you can retract and extend the arm manually by screwing/unscrewing it but it is a bit laborious. This allowed me to check the string arrangement at both extremes. I now think that with the arm fully retracted the string should have three full turns on the large pulley and NO turns on the smaller one. See picture below.

When the arm is fully extended, there is only three quarters of a turn left on the large pulley and three full turns on the small one. See below.

I hope this helps.

 

[tonyappuk]

autohelm restringing

Dipper
I dug out some information I had stored on my PC and attach it for your information. I've no idea where it came from but it helped me as I hope it may help you too. I thank whoever it was originally made it available.
Tony

 

[Dipper]

Dipper
I dug out some information I had stored on my PC and attach it for your information. I've no idea where it came from but it helped me as I hope it may help you too. I thank whoever it was originally made it available.
Tony

Thanks. That's helpful. I wasn't too far out but it's good to have the exact settings.

 

[Dipper]

Correct way to restring Autohelm 1000?

Dipper
I dug out some information I had stored on my PC and attach it for your information. I've no idea where it came from but it helped me as I hope it may help you too. I thank whoever it was originally made it available.
Tony

For the sake of completeness (hopefully) I have restrung my Autohelm 1000 using the information Tony kindly supplied and it certainly looks as though this is the correct way to do it. Mine is a starboard mounted unit. The port mounted unit is slightly different - see Tony's link. One thing not mentioned by anybody is that it looks as though the string should hook round the little black block at the end of the arm close to where it attaches. I hadn't noticed that before.

I don't know how much tension there should be on the spring with the arm retracted. I've had to guess.

The first photo shows the winding arrangement with the arm fully retracted.

The next picture shows the winding arrangement with the arm fully extended. The string has now transferred itself onto the smaller section of the pulley.

The final picture shows the attachment of the string to the arm. It is secured by the screw and then loops around the small block. The arm is about three quarters extended so as to reveal the arrangement more clearly.

 

[elpeyo]

thank you so much

I was not sure in the reparation of mine : your photo help me as i like !
have good wind !
Pierre

 

[VicMallows]

you say oil is leaking from it? wont be from the 'compass' as its a fluxgate unit.

I am certain the compass in question is NOT fluxgate. The one DIPPER illustrates looks exactly like the compass in my original analog AH2000 (the sort with separate cylindrical control unit). That IS oil filled, and produces an output voltage proportional to the compass offset from the set position. (I believe it is an opto-electronic sensor inside).

Vic

 

[Sopris Rose]

Old analog Autohelm1000

I realize this is an old thread but hope someone might have some advice. The analog autohelm 1000 that came with our recently purchased boat worked fine when I first tried it. The next time I plugged it in and turned it on, the arm extended all the way out and regardless of how I turned the compass control it would not return. I took it apart, manually rotated the threaded rod to retract the control arm, and when I plugged it back in it did the same thing. I assume that the compass unit causes the motor to run both directions to adjust course and it seems that something is amiss. there is some light oil present in the case and the threaded rod is oily. everything else seems in good order.
Any ideas are appreciated.

 

[Dipper]

Mine has also done that in the past.

First of all check that the twine is threaded correctly as per the link in tonyappuk's post and my last set of photos.

The rod has a circular O-ring that acts as a buffer when fully extended. There is also one at the other end (I think). These can get damaged, soft or sticky. I replaced mine because they had split and had become soft. I think the softness was allowing my rod to jam on full extension.

When it was jammed, if you turned it on and off, could you hear the motor trying to move the rod? If so then it is likely to be a physical jam rather than a problem with the motor or compass. Could you free the jam by turning the rod manually a couple of turns then turning the unit on?

One consolation is that your unit is unlikely to need to extend fully in normal use. Most of the 'action' occurs in the middle range.

Good luck.

 

[VicMallows]

This happens from time to time on my analogue 2000......usually after it has not been in use for some time and the control unit may have been lying on its side. A few swift turns of the compass knob usually clears it; or sometimes it just starts working again a short time later. I think its due to the compass sticking within its (sealed) housing. Another possibility is poor contact between the 3 slip-rings and the bent-wire contacts. (all assuming the analogue 1000 compass is in fact similar to the analogue 2000).

Vic