analogue autohelm 1000 help?

Another autohelm 1000 question

I realize this is an old thread, but it seemed the most appropriate place for my question:

I've got an autohelm 1000 that I opened up to fix a couple of broken pieces of plastic. After reassembling it, it's no longer working correctly. When turned on, the arm extends to it's fully "out" position, and never retracts, regardless of what the compass rose is set to. Any ideas? Someone on here mentioned having to recalibrate the flux gate compass after opening the unit? Any info on how to do that?
 
It could be due to several reasons.

If the unit is still trying to move you should be able to hear the motor. If this is the case the 'string' may have come off the compass drum or off one of the pulleys. Alternatively, the arm has become jammed at full extension. There are rubber buffers (O-rings) either end and they can become degraded and sticky. I found mine got stuck on one of these when fully retracted.

If the motor isn't trying to move the arm, then you must have disturbed something. I had a problem on mine where the cable frayed internally where it entered the unit. I had to remove it and cut off the damaged end.

You can turn the arm by hand to screw it back in. It's a very fine thread and takes ages to go all the way in. If you just screw it in a few turns, that may free it. You can then check to see if it retracts.

I didn't need to recalibrate the compass but when you refix the compass rose on the top you will need to point it in the right direction which may be easiest done on the boat under way.
 
Nautech Autohelm 2000 circa 84?

Just bought a BCC in Canada. The 2000 was stored in a hanging locker on a bracket just like the bracket used when in use. Problem I'm having is the red and green lights never go out when I'm set to the same course as the compass, they just alternaetly blink red green red green. I've tried making small adjustments to the unit by holding the indicator in place and moving the dial. Any ideas on how I might proceed at this point?
Captn Morgan.
 
Captn Morgan said:
Just bought a BCC in Canada. The 2000 was stored in a hanging locker on a bracket just like the bracket used when in use. Problem I'm having is the red and green lights never go out when I'm set to the same course as the compass, they just alternaetly blink red green red green. I've tried making small adjustments to the unit by holding the indicator in place and moving the dial. Any ideas on how I might proceed at this point?
Captn Morgan.
Click to expand...

Edit: My response relates to the analogue 2000 with a 'bottle' control unit and separate actuator.

What is the actuator doing? Is it maintaining a stable position? With the selector switch in position 1 there is hardly any deadband so at any time either red or green will be on and actuator will hunt when on course. In position 3 there should be a significant deadband when neither light is on and actuator does not move.

The analogue control circuitry does make use of the motor back-emf to establish a 'trim' offset. I do have the circuit, but with the inadequate description of how the circuit was designed to function it is very difficult to faultfind in this area. The vast majority of problems are due to corrosion on the circuit boards or connectors.
 
Last edited:
Autohelm 1000 - analog

Thank you all for the previous posts, they have been very, very helpful.

Helpful in getting my Autohelm 1000 case opened, and in knowing what to expect once open.

I was hoping the string would be broken, as that would have been fixable. But the string is just fine. And the innards all look in excellent condition.

The unit just won't do anything, like it is dead. I checked the power and it is getting to the motherboard. I put 12volts to the motor, and it runs (in and out, no problem). Then I thought - faulty switch!

Took that apart, and had ball bearings shot at me, and a spring take a leap at freedom! It too looks in good condition, and unlikely to have been broken - before now.

What else could I be missing???
Are there any other tests I can do??
Any motherboard type tests??
Any ideas what could be the problem??

And now that I've screwed up the switch, I need to know which connections under the switch are the the ones to 'use'??? There are 12 "tabs" around the switch, and I do not know which ones are the active ones (for: calm, rough, vane, & off)? In the picture below I labelled 3 of them - as points of reference.

AP_innards-1.jpg


The autopilot used to work, and then one day it didn't work, and hasn't worked since. The day it didn't work, I noticed the control arm was in the fully retracted (in) position (after opening the unit I unscrewed the control arm, so it is not stuck now - but may have been??).

Anyone got any ideas???

In desperation,
Ralph.
 
I suspect the circuit is very similar (if not identical) to the 2000 analogue. The switch is 2pole,5way (hence 12 contacts). One pole simply connects the +ve feed in all positions other than OFF. The other pole has resistors in circuit in positions 2 and 3, is open circuit in position 1, and shorts that circuit in the SET position. If you have the other bit of the switch, it should be easy to work out.....or work it out visually on the PCB. I have the 2000 circuit if this might help you.

In the circumstances I think I would simply hard-wire the switch as if in position 1 (or 2), as it would still be perfectly functional. However it does sound as if the switch may not have been the problem to start with.

Whatever else, that working motor is like gold dust! ..... you should be able to get a useful contribution to a new pilot if you put it on EBAY. :)
 
Rebuilding Switch

Thanks for the info.

Wish I was smart enough to understand, but am not, so I am going to have to ask for basic help!

Attached is the top part of the switch, with the 3 little connector things, which sit over the spikes on the switch. Do you know which spikes the connector things should sit on???

AP_switch-1.jpg


Thanks again,
Ralph.
 
Surveyor found one of these in a locker on my latest acquisition... he says it powered up and seemed to be serviceable but was missing the compass rose sticker thing. Any idea how is one supposed to set up / calibrate this thing without the compass guide? :confused:
 
KevO said:
Surveyor found one of these in a locker on my latest acquisition... he says it powered up and seemed to be serviceable but was missing the compass rose sticker thing. Any idea how is one supposed to set up / calibrate this thing without the compass guide? :confused:
Click to expand...

Dont worry about the compass rose its not necessary ... mine was fitted incorrectly last time it went back for repair. ( donkeys years ago)

Steer the boat onto the required heading.
Switch on the AH and twiddle the knob until the arm will drop onto the tillerpin
Fine adjust the heading if necessary.

I dont think I ever followed the instructions in the manual even when it was brand new and the compass rose was fitted correctly
 
Last edited:
I agree with Vic. I don't think mine has ever been in the correct position. I think its main use is to set the arm BEFORE you attach it to the tiller. I've stupidly put the arm onto the tiller before switching the unit on only to find I'm sent violently off course. :o

I painted a small white line on the edge of the disc to give me a guide as to how far I have moved it. You could sail due North and mark your disc like that if you wanted. Then repeat due E, W and S to make your own compass 'rose'.
 
The knob turns as the AH operates.

It will always settle so that the compass rose ( when fitted correctly) aligns with N,S, E & W. provided the ram has not come to the limit of its travel

So switch it on, let it settle, twiddle it a bit if the ram is not within its normal range of travel. Mark the N.

Switch it off and at your leisure mark the other compass points.
It's really not worth the bother though
 
VicMallows said:
I suspect the circuit is very similar (if not identical) to the 2000 analogue. The switch is 2pole,5way (hence 12 contacts). One pole simply connects the +ve feed in all positions other than OFF. The other pole has resistors in circuit in positions 2 and 3, is open circuit in position 1, and shorts that circuit in the SET position. If you have the other bit of the switch, it should be easy to work out.....or work it out visually on the PCB. I have the 2000 circuit if this might help you.

In the circumstances I think I would simply hard-wire the switch as if in position 1 (or 2), as it would still be perfectly functional. However it does sound as if the switch may not have been the problem to start with.

Whatever else, that working motor is like gold dust! ..... you should be able to get a useful contribution to a new pilot if you put it on EBAY. :)
Click to expand...

This is not from personal knowledge (I've not taken an analogue apart) but from the photo I would have thought that the switch is a 3 pole 4 way.
 
Attachment of the AH1000

I'm already lightened reading these posts from the beginning, thanks much! Surely will help when and if I ever need to go inside the unit, but now I just need to know how this unit attaches to the tiller...

I have just been gifted one old unit, perfectly operational but does not have the bushing mounting socket (which is not difficult to work out something) and the tiller end cap.

I contacted Raymarine and was informed they do not produce / provide those specific parts any more.

Does any one have pictures of the tiller end cap, please? My unit only has on the shaft tip a screw type plastic black cap with a small "tong" and I can't figure out how that thing would attach to the tiller...
 
Last edited:
It's already a pretty old thread, however, like to add something which might me interesting .
Just bought an old Autohelm 1000 incl. exploded view and electronic schematic.
Can be very usefull in case of fault-finding.
Please let me know if anybody is interested.

To change the working position from starboard to portside it is possible to mount the string in the opposite way at the compass.
Basically you have the same effect when you change the wires to the DC-motor.
Any experience ?

Edit 1: Changing the wires to the DC-motor doesn't do the trick. Rewinding the wire around the compass CCW seems to be the only solution.
Need a small modification to prevent the wire from touching the spring and the small wheel.

BB mod 1.jpgBB mod 2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hello!
I have an old Autohelm 1000 (the analogue one) which my father opened up a couple of weeks ago and managed to repair (retired engineer, what can I say). If I remember correctly he accidently fried a capacitator but it worked nonetheless.
Omega01x, if you could perhaps take a photograph of the exploded view and electronic schematic and post it here, it would be most appreciated. He is still very intrerested in the schematics for this engineering miracle :P

Regards from a young sailor from the Swedish archipelago.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Refueler
Bow winch eye ...
2
Replies
20
Views
366
Refueler
Refueler

Share this page

Top