Alternatives to deak for decking?

Ian_Edwards

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It looks like I'm going to have to replace the teak decking this winter.
I don't want to replace teak with teak.
The deck is foam core, and the existing teak deck is glued down, so there are very few screw holes into the foam core, just 2 or 3 forward by the anchor locker, and down the side of the coach roof.
The existing deck isn't a true edge to edge narrow plank, but wide boards with grooves routed into the boards, then filled with sealant, to make it look like a traditional laid deck.
My guess is that the old teak will have to be cut out somehow, the deck sanded and a glass epoxy laminate laid down. Followed by an artificial teak laminate, of some kind.
Is my guess about right?
And what's the best artificial teak to use?
 

Tranona

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Don't bother with any of the fake teak stuff. Just fair it and paint or maybe Kiwigrip. The plastic teak is expensive hot in summer and looks fake. The cork based ones are a bit better but really unless you are sold on a teak looking deck are to my mind a waste of money. Not the same for cockpits where teak is practical, long lasting and relatively cheap because of the small area and no need to form into sweeps.
 

Concerto

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A few years ago I saw an late 90's Bavaria that had solved the problem with the thin teak deck on a ply backing breaking up. He stripped the lot off. filled the recesses in the deck and painted the decks. This is exactly what Tranona is suggesting and I would recommend you doing this. So many buyers of older yachts with teak decks are very wary of tired teak decks as the cost of replacement is expensive and especially if they are intending to sail further south from the UK.
 

AndrewB

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I agree with Tramona and Concerto that teak decks detract, rather than enhance, the value of a second-hand yacht.

I stripped all the teak trim in my cockpit shortly after buying the boat. Fortunately it was glued rather than screwed down. Even so, fairing it to give a neat surface for painting would have been a big job, so in the end I replaced it with synthetic teak (Dek-King). It was a straightforward DIY job and still looks good, nine years later.

Synthetic teak has the advantage of providing a non-slip surface, but does get uncomfortably hot in sunny weather. It's a good deal cheaper than teak, but of course dearer than painting. If you paint, a proper non-slip deck paint (e.g. Interdeck) in my experience is easier to apply and looks better than adding sand to a conventional paint.

Another option is Treadmaster, which I used on a slippery angled zone of my deck, and again has lasted well for nine years.
 

lustyd

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Flexiteak or permateek would be my recommendation. Both look better than real teak after a month and zero maintenance. They are every bit as grippy, but won't become slippy due to grime. If they get hot in the sun a bucket of water instantly sorts it and since they can be cleaned more easily anyway this is probably an advantage since real teak gets crazy hot too, hence all the white plastic decks in the med. The only issue is getting someone to fit it, on the south coast they're currently taking orders for early 2024 and seem terrible at replying or answering queries.
I was quoted £2k to remove teak, clean and fair then fit to my cockpit floor and seating plus sugar scoop. We don't have teak on the side decks or bow. That was boat show 2022 and seemed a reasonable price but been unable to move it forwards from there.
 

Supertramp

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+1 for strip, tidy, fair the surface and paint. Depending on the attachment there may be hard to remove patches and damage from removal to repair and fair. And check how many fittings are screwed to or pass through the deck - they can present challenges. Had this done 3 yrs ago and happy with the result. Reassuring to know the deck core is OK, and that a repaint can keep it looking good.
 

Concerto

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Another option is Treadmaster, which I used on a slippery angled zone of my deck, and again has lasted well for nine years.
From experience, Treadmaster does give a good grip. However when I removed it from my Fulmar cockpit due to being chipped at the edges, I found osmosis due to poor applied adhesive allowing water to soak under and remain trapped.

Most teak faced plywood deck panels are 6mm and neither Treamaster or synthetic teak is 6mm thick, so you will end up with recessed panels in the deck that can hold water and dirt.
 

Tranona

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It is important to remember that not all teak decks are the same. Various methods of construction have been used and some are easier to remove than others. AWBs are usually glued down, but may be teak topped ply panels, preformed teak strip panels of individual strips. some use either hidden or temporary fastenings, some are vacuum bagged. Some are glued to plain gel coat, others onto moulded in non skid. Older and many "quality" boats have thick individual strips either mechanically fastened or glued often with deck fittings on top fastened through both the teak and the deck.

Each of these methods require a different approach and also once the teak is removed different base for refinishing. The suggestion for fairing and painting is usually the cheapest, although it might need a lot of labour getting the deck fair. This might not be necessary if a covering is being added such as more real or fake teak. also there are some boats where non teak may detract from value, particularly higher value boats where buyers expect teak and the high cost of replacement can be justified.

So lots to think about.

This bavariayacht.org/forum/index.php/topic,2505.msg16464.html#msg16464 is one of several threads on dealing with teak on Bavarias and gives a flavour of some of the issues and how to deal with them.
 

Zing

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Mine is buggered. I will eventually strip it and paint. The cockpit will have flexiteek or maybe grey caulked cork. New teak looks lovely and feels nice on the feet except in hot weather, then it can be ridiculously hot, outside and in the boat. I measured mine at 70C. It soon becomes worn, dirty and the calking oxidises. Then it doesn’t look good, dirties your feet and anything that rubs on it like rope, fenders and hoses. It’s also fake, a pretend tea clipper look and serves no real practical purpose. It’s going.
 

Ian_Rob

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Are there any real wood alternatives to teak that are worth considering?

Lignia was an option but when I spoke with them a couple of years ago, I was told that they were suspending supply due to cracking.
 

lustyd

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+1 for strip, tidy, fair the surface and paint
The problem is that's not the end of the story, it's the start of an endless cycle of maintenance that could easily be avoided. Paint will get you maybe three years before the boat looks shabby and then you get the fun job of stripping it all back and doing it again, or alternatively choosing to be that scruffy boat at the marina for a few years.
Yes, I begrudge every second doing boat maintenance, I'd rather be on the water with the maintenance free option.
 

lustyd

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Most teak faced plywood deck panels are 6mm and neither Treamaster or synthetic teak is 6mm thick
Well Permateek is 5mm so certainly thicker than the teak being removed after 20 years of scrubbing. Add in some sika and it's plenty thick enough - it's literally designed for the job.
 

Supertramp

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The problem is that's not the end of the story, it's the start of an endless cycle of maintenance that could easily be avoided. Paint will get you maybe three years before the boat looks shabby and then you get the fun job of stripping it all back and doing it again, or alternatively choosing to be that scruffy boat at the marina for a few years.
Yes, I begrudge every second doing boat maintenance, I'd rather be on the water with the maintenance free option.
All true but you remove the nagging worry of leaks and degradation over time. I question whether many deck coverings are truly maintenance (and wear) free.

Deck paint won't win the best looking boat award but is simple to look after and suits a practical, down to earth boat. I rarely look at my decks, trusting them to literally do what it says on the tin.
 

lustyd

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All true but you remove the nagging worry of leaks and degradation over time. I question whether many deck coverings are truly maintenance (and wear) free.

Deck paint won't win the best looking boat award but is simple to look after and suits a practical, down to earth boat. I rarely look at my decks, trusting them to literally do what it says on the tin.
Why would I worry about a plastic deck that's glued down? The good fake teaks have been around for decades and I've yet to see one that I'd consider even slightly degraded, although I'm sure some have dings in them from people dropping things on them.
Even the best application of deck paint will begin to flake due to UV damage within a few years. It's certainly a cheaper option, but only if you put a zero value against your time. My old boat had painted decks and I still curse the previous owner for starting down that road!
 

Supertramp

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The point is that there is a range of choices, mostly differing in cost and appearance rather than function. And I think the costs can be quite different, as can the appearances.

I'm personally not concerned by maintenance within reason as I have sunny (and rainy) days when sailing isn't practical so I do jobs. Of which there are many and not involving paint or decks.

But I appreciate others will look for different solutions to suit their boat, pockets and time.
 
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