"All Four Corners"

Is Fred and his cat Henry still running things there?
Thorughly enjoyed our stay in Ardglass but enjoyed Strangford Lough even more. Try to pop in before you leave the area It is a truly unique and beautiful place
Good luck with the trip
(we went clockwise from Plymouth and are currently in Troon )
 
Yes, Fred is still there, with four cats and a springer spaniel. He runs the place well, and the village has most things you need, but I can't say it's pretty! Interesting fortifications!
DON'T try the fish n chip shop. Worst I've ever experienced!

I had a really enjoyable run from Ardglass to Port Oriel. Lovely sunshine, benign seas and gentle winds. Sunbathing weather! Can't say Port Oriel is up to much, but it's a haven on the way.

Had a great sail today from P.Oriel to Howth. Beat all the way to The Skerries then a reach to Howth. F4/5 all the way with quite big seas on the bow,then the beam.
30 n.miles in 6 hours. Quite pleased with myself!
I acquired a Hebredian Self Steering vane before I left Loch Ewe. I can thoroughly recommend it. It's performed well (and easily after the first few times with settings). John Fleming from Abernethy (near Aviemore) supplies the plans and parts for DIY manufacture and assembly.

The next few days look like being Port Bound again, then Greystones, Arklow and probably from there across,or from Rosslare - to Milford Haven. I hope the weather plays fair for the crossing!

More from Kamsin

Bye f'now,
Robertnext port with wi-fi.
 
Good afternoon, from Padstow.
I did eventually make Arklow, after a truly horrible bash from Wicklow Head into a strong southerly wind against a strong south going tide. I was port-bound in Arklow for four days, waiting for a favourable weather-window to do the 80+ miles across the St. Georges Channel to Milford Haven. The forecasted wind F4 westerly failed to materialise on the day of the only weather window, so it was a 16 hour motor/sail across 84 miles, ending in truly horrible overfalls from the South Bishop Light to Skokholm.

Three days of partying intervened then yesterday I made the 73 mile crossing to Padstow. No wind to start, but after a while the sailing was good and the weather superb. Annoyingly, because of the time constraint at the Doom Bar, I had to keep the engine on as well. I had a rather "interesting" experience transitting the narrow channel into the inner harbour at 00:30 this morning, in pitch darkness with a fierce flood tide behind me and hardly a gap below the keel.
But I'm in, enjoying the sunshine and Padstow's delights whilst planning my trip around Land's End on Saturday or Sunday - if weather and tides play fair.

What I would really appreciate is any advice regarding the back-eddy inside the Longships. I heard that if there's a north going tide outside then there's a really favourable eddy to whisk me through southwards - but no local knowledge can confirm this.
Also, wind and swell permitting, I've been told I could "rest up" on a mooring buoy off St. Ives.

Any advice would be extremely welcome.

Next stop Newlyn and then a few days proper rest in St Mawes.

Bye f'now.
Robert

PS. Thoroughly enjoying the challenge, but far too much motoring and sitting in ports waiting for the weather/tide etc. Single-handing does have it's drawbacks!
 
We did Arklow to Milford then Lundy and on to St Ives before crossing to Scilly. There didn't seem to be much swell but the rolling motion off St Ives was horrendous. All attempts at flopper stopper type gadgets with a bucket did not help. We were very glad to get away early next morning although not very rested. Enjoying following your journey.
 
Robert Wilson said:
Good afternoon, from Padstow.
I did eventually make Arklow, after a truly horrible bash from Wicklow Head into a strong southerly wind against a strong south going tide. I was port-bound in Arklow for four days, waiting for a favourable weather-window to do the 80+ miles across the St. Georges Channel to Milford Haven. The forecasted wind F4 westerly failed to materialise on the day of the only weather window, so it was a 16 hour motor/sail across 84 miles, ending in truly horrible overfalls from the South Bishop Light to Skokholm.

Three days of partying intervened then yesterday I made the 73 mile crossing to Padstow. No wind to start, but after a while the sailing was good and the weather superb. Annoyingly, because of the time constraint at the Doom Bar, I had to keep the engine on as well. I had a rather "interesting" experience transitting the narrow channel into the inner harbour at 00:30 this morning, in pitch darkness with a fierce flood tide behind me and hardly a gap below the keel.
But I'm in, enjoying the sunshine and Padstow's delights whilst planning my trip around Land's End on Saturday or Sunday - if weather and tides play fair.

What I would really appreciate is any advice regarding the back-eddy inside the Longships. I heard that if there's a north going tide outside then there's a really favourable eddy to whisk me through southwards - but no local knowledge can confirm this.
Also, wind and swell permitting, I've been told I could "rest up" on a mooring buoy off St. Ives.

Any advice would be extremely welcome.

Next stop Newlyn and then a few days proper rest in St Mawes.

Bye f'now.
Robert

PS. Thoroughly enjoying the challenge, but far too much motoring and sitting in ports waiting for the weather/tide etc. Single-handing does have it's drawbacks!
Click to expand...
 
Hi there, I sailed from Rock( opposite Padstow ) around Lands End and on to Chichester in my Cornish Shrimper. It was in the summer. The route I took was leaving Camel Estuary and sailed to St Ives. I picked up a mooring buoy outside the harbour until the tide allowed me in to the harbour where I could then overnight. A lifting keel did help! After St Ives I sailed down to Lands End in very favourable weather. We definitely went round the Longships, and not through the inner route. It did not seem worth the risk. Having rounded we continued to sail direct to the Helford River. We thought of stopping in Newlyn, but the weather and wind was so idea we didSt Ives to Helford in one long hop! Good luck. If you want to read more there is a log of my journey on the Shrimper Owners website. "Rock to Bosham" or some such title. I can't access it from my iPad. The Old Codger
 
Robert Wilson said:
Good afternoon, from Padstow.
I did eventually make Arklow, after a truly horrible bash from Wicklow Head into a strong southerly wind against a strong south going tide. I was port-bound in Arklow for four days, waiting for a favourable weather-window to do the 80+ miles across the St. Georges Channel to Milford Haven. The forecasted wind F4 westerly failed to materialise on the day of the only weather window, so it was a 16 hour motor/sail across 84 miles, ending in truly horrible overfalls from the South Bishop Light to Skokholm.

Three days of partying intervened then yesterday I made the 73 mile crossing to Padstow. No wind to start, but after a while the sailing was good and the weather superb. Annoyingly, because of the time constraint at the Doom Bar, I had to keep the engine on as well. I had a rather "interesting" experience transitting the narrow channel into the inner harbour at 00:30 this morning, in pitch darkness with a fierce flood tide behind me and hardly a gap below the keel.
But I'm in, enjoying the sunshine and Padstow's delights whilst planning my trip around Land's End on Saturday or Sunday - if weather and tides play fair.

What I would really appreciate is any advice regarding the back-eddy inside the Longships. I heard that if there's a north going tide outside then there's a really favourable eddy to whisk me through southwards - but no local knowledge can confirm this.
Also, wind and swell permitting, I've been told I could "rest up" on a mooring buoy off St. Ives.

Any advice would be extremely welcome.

Next stop Newlyn and then a few days proper rest in St Mawes.

Bye f'now.
Robert

PS. Thoroughly enjoying the challenge, but far too much motoring and sitting in ports waiting for the weather/tide etc. Single-handing does have it's drawbacks!
Click to expand...

The inshore passage past the Longships is one I use usually at least 4 times a year but for some reason I can never remember accurately the tide difference coming south. Going north from penzance its easy - leave the harbour as late as you can, hang off one of the buoys for a further hour or so and then set off and you will nicely cath the early northward flow through the inshore passage. Coming south is always more problematic anyway since you have 40nm from the mouth of the Camel to the Brisons so you leave as soon as the lock gates open in Padstow. I have never found it necessary to leave on the previous lock out and hang off a buoy but obviously that depends on your boat speed.

Watch the camel entrance lobster pots - many buoys go under water at high water!

I have only used the passage outside the longships once in 20 years and that was the very first time. The inshore passage saves at least an hour and is more protected
 
TheOldCodger said:
Hi there, I sailed from Rock( opposite Padstow ) around Lands End and on to Chichester in my Cornish Shrimper. It was in the summer. The route I took was leaving Camel Estuary and sailed to St Ives. I picked up a mooring buoy outside the harbour until the tide allowed me in to the harbour where I could then overnight. A lifting keel did help! After St Ives I sailed down to Lands End in very favourable weather. We definitely went round the Longships, and not through the inner route. It did not seem worth the risk. Having rounded we continued to sail direct to the Helford River. We thought of stopping in Newlyn, but the weather and wind was so idea we didSt Ives to Helford in one long hop! Good luck. If you want to read more there is a log of my journey on the Shrimper Owners website. "Rock to Bosham" or some such title. I can't access it from my iPad. The Old Codger
Click to expand...
http://www.shrimperowners.org/sitefiles/2009 Rock to Bosham.pdf
 
Thank you one and all. It looks like I'll be leaving Padstow on Saturday, weather permitting and on to Helford/St. Mawes on Sunday. I like the idea of straight to Helford, but that's just too far in one day from Padstow. I also like the idea of the inside passage, but in the absence of firm confirmation about this opposite flowing eddy I think I'll wait and see what the weather is like when I get there!

As an aside, I send an email each opportunity to friends and rellies, usually in a lighthearted and non-too-nautical style; if any of you would like to be copied in then please send me your email address

Here is today's missive:-

Good afternoon one and all.
After a lazy morning in Padstein (also known as Padstow, before the famous chef came to town), I am sitting on the quarter deck beneath the awning waiting for the steward to bring me an Gin & Tonic; it will be a lonnnng wai!!!.
Such a lot has happened since the last Group update, but not a lot of sailing. I see from my “sent-box” that it was 5th May, sitting out the weather in Arklow, Ireland.

Well, amazingly, on Thursday 7th May when most of you would have been casting your vote, a weather-window happened. After days of high winds and adverse tides I left Arklow Marina at 05:00 with a forecast of F3/F4 westerlies. Out of the harbour – zilch, not a breath. So I motored away towards Milford Haven on a roly-poly sea and grey cloud. By halfway the sun had emerged, the wind picked-up and I sailed smartly towards the Welsh coast, with engine on to make the tide off St. David’s Head and the notorious overfalls around Skomer et al. It really was a beautiful day, Khamsin was swishing along and all was good – but the hours dragged slowly by; four, five, six, seven, eight, ten, twelve – without a break. I had prepared a flask and sandwiches before leaving Arklow, so ate “on-the-wave” so to speak.
It was an uneventful trip most of the way. A large cruise ship hailed me on the VHF and demanded I alter course to behind him – he was about two miles away. I told him I would hold my course, and did, passing about half a mile astern of him!
Now I don’t know if I’ve mentioned this, but my judgement of distance at sea is far from A1. What I thought was Grassholme, near Skomer turned out to be the South Bishop Lighthouse – a good hour and a half northwards. Almost as soon as I saw it was the lighthouse the overfalls started. If I ever complain about the “ripples” around headlands in my northern sailing area please remind me of The South Bishop Washing Machine. For two hours I was thrown every-which-way- and another; Khamsin bucked, swooped, reared, crashed, wallowed and squirmed. I was warned that off Skokholm the overfalls were bad and should give them a mile wide offing – pah!, flat calm by comparison!!
Oh, and I saw a dolphin off the bow somewhere around hour ten. Just thought I’d mention that.

Anyway, after nearly 16 hours at the helm (no autohelm and the s/s wind vane doesn’t take kindly to motor-saling) and 84 nautical miles I round St. Anne’s Head and had shortly dropped anchor in Dale, at the west end of Milford Haven. Before very long, after a perfunctory tidy up I poured myself supper. A VERY large Rum ‘n’ Coke!! Yeaaahhh, THAT’S the way to do it!
I fell fully clothed into my bunk, expecting a long lie in – I hadn’t gambled on my excellent host for the next few days and his vast knowledge of Milford Haven waters texting me at seven o’clock warning me that I should beat the ebb tide and get to Neyland ASAP. Grooooooaaaaannnn.
So, a quick bowl of cereal whilst preparing to leave saw me heaving up 38 metres of anchor chain, by now head-to-wind into a strong easterly wind, and rain. I don’t have an electric windlass.
What I thought would take me an hour to motor 5 miles to Neyland Marine and the fuel berth took over two – into a strengthening easterly, driving rain and very cold spray. I were proper miserable.

BUT, just as I thought I was in the wrong space-time continuum I saw headlights flashing from a car on the shore. It was Rob Mason, come to meet me and guide me to my mooring up the Cleddau river for the duration of The Party. That lifted my spirits enormously and I enthusiastically waved back. I had a lump in my throat.
A few minutes later I had rounded onto the fuel berth, stepped smartly (rather wobbly!) ashore. I extended my hand to Rob, only to be crunched in the most welcoming bear-hug. A true friend indeed.

Anyway, the next three days smoothed by. I met many, many people all of whom were extremely kind, generous and great fun to be with; too many to mention, but two must be – my “digs” people, Rick and Delma. Fantastic hosts . Many were sailors themselves, but to a man (and woman) they were enthusiastic about my exploits and ambition. The party (three days of it in fact) was a whirl of meeting more and more people, serious amounts of delicious food and a few drinks…………!!
The reason for the party (for those who didn’t know) was the re-naming and dedication of Benbecula, the darling old boat of my early years’ sailing in St. Mawes in the 60s and 70s. Rob has re-built her from a pile of firewood (literally) to something her builders in 1897 (yes 18, not 1987) would have been extremely proud of. She is now back to her original name Myfanwy and spectacularly beautiful. I kept whispering to her about the good-old-days and telling her to thrill Rob when out on the water as she did all those years ago to me.

But enough, circumnavigation of the nation is not about parties.

So it was back down the river to overnight, or more, in Dale. Yes, you’ve guessed it – into the wind again; but this time with tide and dry. Miraculously the forecast was hinting at another window of sailable winds and seas. Numerous conversations on the VHF with Milford Haven Coast Guard had me thinking it was worth getting up at 04:00 to go for Padstow. And so it was. But after a horrible roly night I weighed anchor, this time in flat calm so no effort.
As I was motoring out of Milford, the Coastguard came on air, gave me the latest forecast which miraculously had no mention of the threatening gale, took details of my journey (including my home port Loch Ewe) and said he knew it and Second Coast well having holidayed there and visited Inverewe Gardens. Small world.
My destination was Padstow, the only serious option for a port on the north Devon/Cornwall coast. 73 miles away, with gales in the offing. After motoring, in glorious sunshine for three hours the wind arrived and up went the sails. Padstow has a shallow entrance, the Doom Bar (gulp!) and an equally shallow twisting channel. The Bar can only be crossed outwith one-and-a-half hours of low tide; and the harbour only two hours either side of high water. I needed to keep up speed all the way so kept the engine on and sailed. I managed to average 4knots for four hours – not enough for the Bar. I had no alternative port and Lundy Island’s only anchorage is untenable in easterly winds. By the six hour mark, roughly half way, Lundy was passed and with mounting relief the wind strengthened a little and my speed crept-up. Quarter-hour by quarter-hour, mile-by-mile it kept increasing a tenth of a knot. With four hours to go to the critical cut-off time I began to think it was possible. The thought of staying out at anchor, with a gale in the offing was scary.

Soon Pentire Point was clear and strong on the horizon, the sun was shining brilliantly and Khamsin was sliding along at over six knots. I had just past Port Isaac (Port Wenn, of Doc Martin fame) and I called-up Padstow Harbourmaster, sought confirmation of my tide/timing calculations and clarification of arrangements for anchoring in The Pool until the Inner Harbour gate was open, two hours before high tide – at 02:27 the next morning……….
I rounded Newland Rock, closed the calmer water off Polzeath beach and downed sails. Within minutes I had crossed over the Doom Bar with at least 0.5metre of water below my keel and lined-up the port-hand buoy, the next starboard-hand buoy and a back-bearing of Pentire Point. Verrrrry shallow it was, and blowing briskly over my stern. Grounding in the shallow estuary was not to be thought about.

At last I was through, into the Pool and moored-to on a visitor buoy. Later I would thank my lucky stars I hadn’t anchored, as I had intended. I now had five hours to wait until I could “lock-in” to the inner harbour and sanctuary. Darkness fell, having set two alarms lest I nod off, I passed the time reading an account of someone who had circumnavigated Britain (the other way around). At half past eleven I called-up the Berthing Manager (no, not going into labour, but soon to have kittens) and received instructions to leave the mooring and enter the outer harbour to await the lock gate opening at 00:30. Just like that, no fuss, drama or warning. It was PITCH BLACK outside, for goodness sake. I have a very powerful hand-held halogen searchlight which helped identify the shore which was about three boat lengths away and could see port-hand and starboard-hand buoys winking away near the harbour entrance. But could see nothing, NOT A THING, between.
By now the flood tide was running at what I guessed was seven knots, the wind was blowing with it so Khamsin was facing up tide, but oddly, the mooring buoy was sternwards of the bow. As I said, I was by now very glad I hadn’t had to try to weigh anchor against that tide.
Pause here and consider. I don’t know where I’m going to go, there is a shallow sand-bar somewhere close off my port quarter, the channel into the harbour is about two boat-lengths wide disappearing off into the blackness – with a turn in it – and I don’t know how shallow it is. The charts and pilot book are of very little help; “line-up to the port-hand buoy, then enter the harbour”. GREAT HELP!!
The said sand-bar off my stern is down-tide (7 knots!), I have to cast-off, turn extremely quickly across the tide (yes, across the flow -7knots, remember) and aim for a hole in the darkness which I don’t know where it is or where the shallow/rocky shore starts. To compound matters the buoy is being pulled sternwards and when I cast-off I have to get back to the engine controls and tiller in about the time it takes to utter SH*T before I’m onto the said sand-bar. I brilliantly thought of taking a new line from the mooring buoy to my stern, casting off my bow-warps and by the time the slack had been taken up in the new warp I’d be in the cockpit, in control and already turning into the darkness.
WRONG…………………………
The boat shot sideways away to starboard and away from the buoy to port and the channel, the warp went bar-tight and it took every bit of my strength to pull her bow towards the channel before desperately untying and slipping the bight through the ring on the buoy.
Then the fun really started!! Into the unknown sprang to mind.
In the high-powered beam of my lamp I could just make out the black shore, I couldn’t see the sand-bar under water and so couldn’t gauge where the channel was; remember two boat-lengths wide. I closed the shore to starboard to within ten metres, with 0.5 metres below the keel, now with a 7 knot tide up my whatsit. Put her into astern, go with the flow and hope there wasn’t an outcrop? Single-handing is a great way to spend an evening!!! I went straight for the port-hand mark. No option really. Just as I thought I was in control there in front of me was a large fishing boat coming towards me – in the narrow channel of which I had no idea of its width or depth AND, it is still pitch black, but with lights of all colours and brightness ahead of me completely blinding me to what might be off my bow.

Suffice to say, fate shined on me; the fishing boat turned smartly into the inner harbour to my starboard, I made both the port and the starboard channel-marker buoys without grounding or hitting anything and then, totally incredibly to me, I was into the inner basin and the berthing manager was beckoning me towards the lowering lock gate.
As I said – KITTENS!

After all that, I was guided to a wall-side berth, helped to tie-on and given the codes to the lavatory. BOY, did I NEED IT!

Bed just before 02:00 after 22 hours of a rather momentous day.

Sitting here in the cockpit ,in the sunshine, in merry Padstow after a huge “full Cornish breakfast” I’m feeling relieved, relaxed and rejuvenated.

But I have to get out again and then just undertake the wee task of getting down-channel to Lands End, round that notorious headland of rocks and wrecks and get back up into Newlyn. Gales, tides, sand-bars, rocks, wrecks and mistakes I hope to be able to email you from Newlyn before the weekend is out. But you never know!

Bye f’now folks,
Khamsin, out.
 
That takes me back! . I've done that entrance in the dark more often than in the daylight - hit the rocks on the starboard side once ( only glancing) and then the following year in an effort to avoid the rocks I parked the boat on the sand bank. Luckily it was the cat so we didnt fall over. But I was there for the duration for sure.

Pity really - the entrance past the bar down the river is well marked and quite easy. It only gets difficult in the dark when you get to the right turn towards the harbour.. I dont understand why they dont mark it better.
 
Well, I made it to St. Mawes last evening. That's the second of my two goals, and the third I suppose is to get home to Loch Ewe!
I know I have plenty of challenges and fun ahead of me, but I'm being honest when I say the long, sparsely-furnished east coast from Gt Yarmouth to Whitby, and from Amble to Eyemouth fills me with no small measure of concern.

Any hints on passages, havens and safety? Always most gratefully received and acknowledged.

PS I thought I'd just mention that on Saturday I left Padstow at 05:00, had a sod-of-a-first-hour then a great reach to Pendeen, a motor-sail toThe Brisons, a superb sail through the inner passage (only just spotting Kettle Bottom in time) with motor ticking over just in case and then a magic sail in glorious, warm sunshine past the Minack Theatre and on into Newlyn.

So I done it good, boys, right chuffed I am :encouragement:
 
Last edited:
Hats Off here !

Hope you get to visit the Chain Locker in Falmouth before coming this way, more of a museum than a pub and no visit is complete without a pilgramage there, IMO.

Might see you if you drop in on Chichester ?

Remember it's supposed to be fun ! :)

Andy
 
On my 2 circumnavigations I met lots of smaller boat (sub 22ft) sailors. several commented how hard a 31 ft yacht would be to sail but personally I reckon that they are the heroes. Slower boats involve better planning for tide gates & usually mean legs have to be shorter. Sea state & wind are always a problem in variable weather.
Take the OP's experience of Padstow. No way would i bother with that port. I did Newlyn to Milford Haven & went into the marina there timing my arrival so i did not have to wait for the lock. in fact I did 6 legs over 100 miles to ensure I arrived in easy destinations & 24 hour ports if possible. No anchoring in bays half way.

I reckon the Op should be applauded

By the way when rounding the lands End inner passage I went into the scruffiest pub in Newlyn ( actually a good pub atmosphere & people) to find some fishermen.
Not having a chart I asked a couple of them how to navigate the channel & how to work the tides. One said he had been fishing there 40 years & still did not suss the tidal flows. The other said - " If you see a rock do not hit it. Otherwise you will be alright"
Actually that was right on. I sailed clear of large rocks & found plenty of water in the gaps between. I used Reeds for the tide
 
Agreed, I saw Padstow from the road side in a big SW wind, and it quickly joined my mental notes list of ' don't try your luck here .'

Incidentally as I'm into Arthurian history - not the romances - we also visited Tintagel, I formed the same verdict there after experiencing the joys of ' King Arthur's Car Park ' :)
 
Daydream believer said:
On my 2 circumnavigations I met lots of smaller boat (sub 22ft) sailors. several commented how hard a 31 ft yacht would be to sail but personally I reckon that they are the heroes. Slower boats involve better planning for tide gates & usually mean legs have to be shorter. Sea state & wind are always a problem in variable weather.
Take the OP's experience of Padstow. No way would i bother with that port. I did Newlyn to Milford Haven & went into the marina there timing my arrival so i did not have to wait for the lock. in fact I did 6 legs over 100 miles to ensure I arrived in easy destinations & 24 hour ports if possible. No anchoring in bays half way.

I reckon the Op should be applauded

By the way when rounding the lands End inner passage I went into the scruffiest pub in Newlyn ( actually a good pub atmosphere & people) to find some fishermen.
Not having a chart I asked a couple of them how to navigate the channel & how to work the tides. One said he had been fishing there 40 years & still did not suss the tidal flows. The other said - " If you see a rock do not hit it. Otherwise you will be alright"
Actually that was right on. I sailed clear of large rocks & found plenty of water in the gaps between. I used Reeds for the tide
Click to expand...


Phew! Newlyn to Milford! Single handed? That's a heck of a long trip, especially if Land's End played unfair.
Well done
 
Seajet said:
Hats Off here !

Hope you get to visit the Chain Locker in Falmouth before coming this way, more of a museum than a pub and no visit is complete without a pilgramage there, IMO.

Might see you if you drop in on Chichester ?

Remember it's supposed to be fun ! :)

Andy
Click to expand...

Might be going to Falmouth tomorrow. Anyone around for a bevvy?

Chichester is seven hops from here, and I intend to go in. Chichester Marina, or any other recommendations? I don't need highlife or smart life !
 
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