Advice for replacing sprayhood window panel

Nick, we do upholstery and canvas work. Usually charge £150 + materials, which is likely to be around £30, so, with courier, about £200. Trouble is, we're in Cornwall and starting to get busy now.
 
I had my panels replaced this year and they went opaque after it rained. Even wiping with an absorbent cloth, after the rain stopped, did not reduce the opaqueness. It took a few hours of not raining for the opaqueness to fade away. My old spray hood windows did not do this. Looking around my marina there are window panels that do, and some that don't go opaque. Therefore there are different types of plastic on the market that can be used to replace the original. I spent £350 on 4 x panels to be replaced. The quality was good, and I was initially very pleased at the massive improvement in clarity, until it rained. It is now being corrected with a different plastic. I don't know the details of the materials. If getting the panels replaced professionally, mention that you do not want the plastic material that goes opaque after it rains and that they need to check with the supplier.

This is what Google AI states, and the conditions match my experience: -

Yes, the flexible vinyl windows in spray hoods can absorb water, which can lead to them becoming foggy or cloudy, particularly in cold or humid conditions. This is not due to a manufacturing defect, but rather a natural characteristic of the material.
The process of water absorption occurs due to these factors:
Material composition: Flexible windows for boats are typically made from a type of PVC plastic. The surface of this material is soft, and over time, it can degrade due to exposure to UV rays and other environmental factors. This degradation makes it more susceptible to absorbing moisture.
Condensation: When there is a significant temperature difference between the interior and exterior of the spray hood, water vapor from the warmer side can condense on the cooler window surface. Since the vinyl is slightly porous, some of this moisture can be drawn into the plastic itself, causing a foggy appearance.
Trapped moisture: Water can also become trapped between layers of the window or in tiny, microscopic scratches that form on the surface. Once there, it is slow to evaporate, causing persistent haziness.
How to deal with foggy or cloudy vinyl windows
Temporary fogging: If the fogginess is due to normal absorption, it can often be cleared by moving the spray hood to a warm, dry area. The heat will help draw the absorbed moisture out of the vinyl.
Degradation: If the fogginess does not clear up and the vinyl is also becoming brittle, it is likely due to long-term UV degradation. At this point, the windows will need to be replaced.
Cleaning and protection: To prolong the life and clarity of your windows, proper maintenance is crucial.
Use the right cleaners: Avoid household glass cleaners, which contain chemicals like ammonia that will damage the vinyl. Instead, use specialty marine vinyl cleaners and protectors from brands like Star brite or 303.
Apply protectant: Use a protectant specifically designed for clear vinyl. These products help to fill in tiny scratches, inhibit the loss of plasticizers that keep the vinyl flexible, and provide a UV-protective coating to prevent future damage.

Apparently there are vinyls available that don't do this.
 
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View attachment 201344 My sprayhood windscreen was milky and is now split. Those who have had similar, DIY? Or recommend a trusted repairer and some ball park prices please.
We use 20 thou (0.5mm) Crystal View, which seems to last a long time without clouding. You can get scratch resistant but I'm not sure it's worth the extra cost. It goes right up to 1mm but that's very stiff and unmanageable. You can also get 10 thou but I wouldn't recommend it.
 
I have done one or two on our old, relegated to over winter sprayhood without problem. I was advised to leave the old plastic in place for as long as possible when stitching in the new plastic to keep the shape. One suggestion was to stitch over the old plastic then cut it out using a stanley knife.
 
I have done one or two on our old, relegated to over winter sprayhood without problem. I was advised to leave the old plastic in place for as long as possible when stitching in the new plastic to keep the shape. One suggestion was to stitch over the old plastic then cut it out using a stanley knife.
It’s tit bits like that which make this forum so invaluable. Great tip, thanks
 
I've done mine, too - as Pete says above. You can keep the vinyl going for a long time by polishing it regularly - say twice a season. Seems to keep it flexible. I use the Renovo product, but I have heard Pledge is just as good!
 
I have done one or two on our old, relegated to over winter sprayhood without problem. I was advised to leave the old plastic in place for as long as possible when stitching in the new plastic to keep the shape. One suggestion was to stitch over the old plastic then cut it out using a stanley knife.
That is what I did.
Removed the canopy from the boat, took off the stainless steel poles. Washed the canopy, windows and all, in the washing machine. Washed it again. Dried it, placed over the replacement window sheet, roughly marked it out and cut the replacement window to size. Sewed round, trimmed once done, cut out the old window, re-threaded the poles, prayed that it hadn’t shrunk then refitted on the boat. It looks a million times better than before.
Fabsil gold in the spring, hopefully.
Any of the steps could have gone wrong but luckily it worked fine.
 
As an aside once you have replaced the plastic have some covers made with pop studs to protect the transparencies when boat not in use - we had our small panels replace by a firm in Thorney but miles from you so prices down here not comparable with the rates local to you I suspect. I would look around the marina and see what cover makers named revealed if you want a local quote. Or ask at local marina office?
 
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