A rebuild thread to keep you all happy for the long winter

[JOHNPEET]

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Feel free the draw on my photo

Those carbon brushes are looking to be in a sorry state and assume that you have them on your list for replacement/refurbishment along with all the associated bonding connections and cable.
When you have it all back together and prior to the relaunch, would advise measuring the electrical resistance between the shafts and your anodes to ensure that it is as expected and as low as possible. It’s surprising how the smallest amount of grime on the faces of the carbon brushes make a big difference to the resistance.
Apologies if you’re already aware of this.

Hopefully the shafts will be good

 

[PaulRainbow]

Those carbon brushes are looking to be in a sorry state and assume that you have them on your list for replacement/refurbishment along with all the associated bonding connections and cable.
When you have it all back together and prior to the relaunch, would advise measuring the electrical resistance between the shafts and your anodes to ensure that it is as expected and as low as possible. It’s surprising how the smallest amount of grime on the faces of the carbon brushes make a big difference to the resistance.
Apologies if you’re already aware of this.

Hopefully the shafts will be good

When the boat was built it had bridging wires across the flexible couplings, presumably a connection between the transmissions/engines, might be better to replace those and bin the carbon brush setup ?

 

[Mr Googler]

I have 2 of those fitted also. I have read that there should only be one but I simply replaced the 2 that were there when I bought the boat. I don't have room for a bigger unit. Perhaps a foolish choice?

Back to Googlers boat. Any issues getting the shafts free from the couplers? What technique did you use out of interest?

I have not a clue…got the yard doing it for a change. Rudders had to come out too! Some jobs are just worth paying for

 

[JOHNPEET]

When the boat was built it had bridging wires across the flexible couplings, presumably a connection between the transmissions/engines, might be better to replace those and bin the carbon brush setup ?

It could be yes. The key issue being to make sure the resistance between the shafts and anode is as low as possible.
There may be shaft anodes fitted too? If so, and they haven’t fizzed away between lifts, possibly neither brushes nor a coupling bridge would be required ?

 

[PaulRainbow]

It could be yes. The key issue being to make sure the resistance between the shafts and anode is as low as possible.

Of course

There may be shaft anodes fitted too? If so, and they haven’t fizzed away between lifts, possibly neither brushes nor a coupling bridge would be required ?

Post #82 shows hull anodes are both present and looking good, #99 also shows the shaft anode, not depleted much.

The shaft anodes might be OK on their own, but it's hard to say how much the hull anodes have helped, via the brushes. I think i'd bin the brushes and shaft anodes, replace the bridging wires and let the hull anodes look after everything. Obviously checking the resistance, as you say.

 

[Mr Googler]

Update. Shafts straight and minimal wear. Tapered both ends so going to flip them anyway.

Cutlass cooling mystery solved……


That lines up with the water feed then you put the cutlass in! All makes sense now!

Last bit is props assessment so lets see. Be time to reassemble soon and get back afloat!

The anodes had pacified due to being in fresh water and being zinc. They are over 6 years old so its a bad news story really. Bonding will be checked for sure. I dont like the brushes at all so will like just wire across the coupling anyway.

Thanks for all the posts. Interesting stuff from everyone

 

[Mr Googler]

I called Tony Hart who knocked this up

 

[bowler]

I have not a clue…got the yard doing it for a change. Rudders had to come out too! Some jobs are just worth paying for

Can't say I blame you. Path of least resistance! Are they putting thm back in?

 

[Mr Googler]

Can't say I blame you. Path of least resistance! Are they putting thm back in?

Absolutely….rudders are out too! Stuff that





Shes in primer…..then it rained. Makes a nice change to have someone else do the work but its not going to be a regular occurrence. Just important to know where a forum / youtube trained novice needs to draw the line at times.

Shafts have cleaned up lovely



Props off to their spa day

 

[Skipper Felice]

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Is it perfect in every single spot without a single join…..no…..but the beauty is……you can pull it off anytime and try again!

Well .... good job and a lot of hours work! I remember a few day this summer with our new to me Azimut 46 and I had the same situation with 100 tools around the cabin .... )

 

[Mr Googler]

Just for @PaulRainbow

The 80’s turquoise green days are officially over


Just black antifoul to do. Oh…..and put literally everything back together

 

[PaulRainbow]

Update. Shafts straight and minimal wear. Tapered both ends so going to flip them anyway.

Cutlass cooling mystery solved……

View attachment 202751
That lines up with the water feed then you put the cutlass in! All makes sense now!

Last bit is props assessment so lets see. Be time to reassemble soon and get back afloat!

The anodes had pacified due to being in fresh water and being zinc. They are over 6 years old so its a bad news story really. Bonding will be checked for sure. I dont like the brushes at all so will like just wire across the coupling anyway.

Thanks for all the posts. Interesting stuff from everyone

I'd take the pipes off that go to the stern glands and check they are clear, both of mine were full of crap, no water getting through.

 

[Mr Googler]

I'd take the pipes off that go to the stern glands and check they are clear, both of mine were full of crap, no water getting through.

Done and done

 

[Mr Googler]

Not to much to update other than antifoul is now on and looking sharp. Cutless bearings in and props assessed and repaired. The report was that 2 blades on each had “dropped” so needed angle correction. Apparently that can cause really bad vibration when they are out of pitch to each other.

Hopefully all back together by early next week and off we go!

 

[Mr Googler]

News….still waiting for props to get back…shipping has been delayed. Whilst waiting….they have done a little repair to my windlass. It would recover no problem but when paying out…..it would just spin the drum unless the chain had some pull on it.

Investigations showed the keyway inside the drum had worn and fractured

What to do. They have been very clever. Stainless steel ring around the outside and a new key way machined!



Thats is a great fix for a long out of production drum!

Hopefully props here tomorrow then launch friday for the run home. Itll be nearly dark so doubt ill get photos but will report back with the final shipyard work verdict!

 

[Mr Googler]

Christmas came early!


No more needs to be said

 

[Sticky Fingers]

Who did your props for you? They look good (if poorly protected on the pallet )…?

 

[Mr Googler]

Who did your props for you? They look good (if poorly protected on the pallet )…?

AE Woodward

 

[Mr Googler]

It is mad what can be done with time and skill

 

[Mr Googler]

Time for a long overdue up date!



So off we go down the slip! Looks smoother than it feels but all went well

On the run home made full wot revs and 28 knots which was good. The stern packing didnt leak at all which was good. There is still vibration which is not good….but its different. Basically,….its present when going into gear at tickover but goes as the boat gets moving…….even at the tickover revs. Theres then like a harmonic at cruise rpm. Double checked the allignment and it was spot on. Next stop is engine mounts and im thinking about giving the p bracket a nip equally on all 6 bolts inside. Thoughts?

This weekend i then started the sofa colour change



This is the before. The product is Kolorbond and it is awesome stuff but bit nasty to work with as its got mega solvent levels to get the dye into the leather



Standard approach of thin layers etc and was done in 3 passes. After much masking and spraying, this is the final result!



Im really pleased with it. The camera makes it look a little blue but doesnt in reality. 8 rattle cans did the lot so for £200, its a great result. Oddly, the leather feels nicer now too!