3.3 Mariner outboard starting problem

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zeiler

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My trusty little outboard refuses to start. It does kick over once sometimes but refuses to run.

I have checked the spark with the plug out. OK

I have cleaned the carburetor, reseated the seal between it and the block, replaced the old gas, cleaned the main jet, cleaned the float seat, checked the float, washed the jet, all to no avail.

The connection to the kill switch is corroded and on inspection the unit in the wire came apart. I assumed that it was a simple connection to ground but that appears not to be so. It is so corroded that it is difficult to identify and I do not understand its purpose.

There is a similar connection, also corroded, from the what I assume is a condenser. Can anyone help me to understand these components?

I do not understand why the engine would fire and then refuse to run. Any previous problems have always involved the carburetor and simple cleaning sufficed.

zeiler
 
A bit left field but I've found that the plug can often be faulty in this scenario and work intermittantly, always try a new plug first and carry a spare for these little engines. I tuck one inside the cowling in a plastic bag. Saved my bacon with just this problem yesterday.
 
What age and/or serial number?

How good is the spark. it should jump abt 7/16" assuming its a CD ignition.

Good idea to replace spark plug. NGK BP6HS-10 (or Champion RL87YC) gapped at 0.040" ( 1.0mm)

Inspect lead

Kill switch is usually a shorting switch to earth. If you have a spark then it is OK if not then disconnect and insulate the wiring .
Clean up corrosion and remake terminations as necessary

If you have a good spark and a new plug try squirting a little two stroke fuel mix into carb intake. If it runs briefly then you probably still have a carb or fuel supply problem.
Check fuel supply to carb, check choke operates correctly.

Will it run on the choke if so then almost certainly still a dirty carb . Clean jet(s) with a soft copper wire

Good idea to check compression. No spec figures that I know of but should run if above 60psi better if above 80.

#8 is the CD unit and #6 is the HT coil in the diag HERE
 
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kill switch shorts to earth on my Mariner 3.3.

So engine will not start without switch contact held open by the kill cord.

I assume removing kill swich completely from circuit should allow engine to run.

The test is whether you get sparks and as others have said that's down to plug and lead.

There must be some contact points somewhere or an electronic ignition box - maybe they are equally corroded.
 
The woodruff key # 8 in This diagram

note that the flywheel is also on a taper. It is important that the nut holding the flywheel is tightened to the correct torque. Failure to do so is a very likely cause of the key failing.

If removing and refitting flywheel and key note that when the key is fitted I understand that it should be positioned so that its straight side is parallel with the centre line of the shaft rather than with side of the taper.
 
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Does a 3.3 have points or is it CD?

not yet been informed of the year or serial number but as far as I have been able to establish the 3.3 has CDi
 
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3.3 mariner outboard starting problem

First a big thank you all for the quick replies and here the info asked for:

The engine model # is 7-7--3201KB and the ser# OP113660. I bought the thing used in Vanuatu. It was originally sold in Italy to the previous owner on 09/05/02. He bought it new. It looks like CD ignition to me. I'm worried that taking off the flywheel will get me into more trouble due to corrosion of the bolts.

I tested the spark against the block and also with a clip lead. Seemed like a good spark. I tried also with another (used) plug. The idea of having a new plug for testing is a good one, trouble is I seem to use them :) and now do not have one. Nor can I get one on this remote island.

The drawing was of help although I still cannot identify those things that look like connectors on the drawing between the kill switch (N.O. when running of course, and similar ones between the flywheel and the ignition parts and another one between those parts. Can I short them out? i.e get rid of them?

I'll try again with squirting some gas into the motor (carb) and will be back with that result. It is puzzling as it was running so well-----

We have grandchildren coming in a week and it would be so nice to have the motor running as the dinghy and motor are our 'car' of course.

Thanks again
 
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continuing problems

Hi All again

Thanks again to those kind enough to reply to my problem. The weather here on the island has not been conducive to repairing as I am doing it in the dinghy. Heavy rain and wind-----

Yesterday I did get the chance to try squirting gas into the carb intake (not easy in 40 deg heat) and the motor each time I did this gave a single 'kick' much like it does but then occasionally when I first try starting it normally.

This morning I dropped a few drops of gas into the spark plug hole and it gave several kicks! Proving I suppose that the fault lies in the carb someplace, I had been worried that the initial kick cause a disconnect on the corroded wires but that was grasping at straws of course.

So back to the carb. I tested the suction with the carb off and it seemed to pulse properly although that is a crude check. I then closed off the carb inlet with my thumb and turned the engine over. Immediately fuel ran out in copious quantities from the carb proving that fuel can be sucked out of the bowl. It confirmed that the jet was at least not plugged which I had previously ascertained by being able to blow through it with the needle open and also I was able to flush gas through by attaching a little plastic tube over the fuel inlet to the main jet.

However it still does not start. (!@#$%%^) I hesitate to unscrew the idle jet or remove the main jet due to corrosion and the total lack of parts here on an island about fifty miles off of the main coast of Malaysia and of course they will not have parts there either------

I, for the first time in a (long) life of dealing with these sometimes exasperating but oh so wonderful little engines am completely baffled.

Anyone else ever run into something like this?

Thanks again for your help so far and for anything else you might think to try.

At wits end

Jim
 
I don't want to be the bearer of bad news but our 3.3 died on us last year. On ours I was completely baffled as well, but in the end it turned out that the single piston ring had scored the bore and that was enough to lose just enough compression to keep the thing from running again.

Have you any way of measuring compression?

I hope that yours has stopped for a different reason, and that you manage to get it sorted.

When you say it 'kicks' with a spot of fuel injected into the spark plug hole, do you mean that it gives a burst of a life and then dies again, or does it sort of just fire once or twice without ever appearing to start?
 
loss of compression??

Thanks John for the reply. You hit a nerve I guess as I've been wondering along those lines. (no much else to suspect is there!) It would also cause a lack of suction on these two strokes----guess I subconsciously just did not want to go there:)

I'll try a little oil in the piston. If it does a little more 'kicking' or even starts momentarily I'll know won't I. By 'kick' I mean that feeling that it is going to start if you know what I mean. When I put the gas into the piston chamber instead of the carb inlet it 'kicked' just a tad more than it did via the carb inlet.

Of course I will also try and get a compression gauge that is just a tad better than the one I used; my thumb over the spark plug hole:D.

Might be difficult on this little island but there are other boats around.

It is raining, again, so it might not be until later that I'll post the result.

It will mean a 'kick' in the budget as it seems not worth fixing-----:(

Thanks for writing John

Jim
 
No problem. I was confused as anything when ours died as they are so simple and so straightforward to work on. There's not much to go wrong! I'd still swap places with you as I am in S Wales on my way to the inlaws Golden Wedding anniversary and I was out in the part of the world where you are last year.

I ended up selling the engine for spares to someone who made one engine out of two. The parts to repair my broken one were going to cost over £150 and it wasn't worth it. Mind you the man who had it gave me £70 for the bits so I was fairly happy!
 
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