270ah DIY LiFePO4 build

sailaboutvic

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I'm sure your right regarding cells 1 and 4 and it worst for me as we have 8 cells working off one bms , also the other boat I fitted lithium on ( talk about the blind leading the blind) as the same problem actually Simon is cruising with us at the moment as he like my way of getting around the 90/180 days rules but that's another thing
And we offen Compair reading although I do use a lot more Amps then he .

As you probably remember I wasn't impressed with the smart 123 and knowing what I know now I would had brought something else and much cheaper too ,
I was even less impress when after just three weeks it came to light that one of the relay wasn't working , I may have shorten it out sticking them stupid wires maybe it was just faulty who know and when I call them for advice they said they didn't keep parts and best they could offer was to buy a new unit, not even send it in to check it or has Its only three weeks old we give a bit of a discount . But hey that's company's for you.

I'm not sure if the bms ever packed up I would replace them , charging at 13.8v they need to be a long way out to top one cell out , it just mean keeping an eye on them and balance then if they did go too far out and we watch them like hark anyway.
I'm sure many may think it's a bad idea, ut until it's tried who know.

I'm finding by mid day on a good day and on a bad day late afternoon they charged and we having to turn on the hot water heater to draw power , there only been one time when we sailed for 55 hours on semi cloud days and radar going at nights we not seen them reach 13.8v since we fitted them even while we was in the winter marina we wasn't using shore power to charge and with short days and shading from other boats we was still reaching 13.8v or close enough .

Re the damage battery's we met one cruiser in May in a anchorage who had 8 cells he used rubber from an old dinghy in-between each cells and compressed the cell with end plywood and threaded rod some how the rubber worn and the cells rub which cause the short , looking at the set up I couldn't work out how it happen the rubber was quite thick , I did wonder of something else cause the problem, they where well compressed so how did the rubber wear?

The second cruiser was just few weeks back in Sicily , sim set up with threaded rods and plywood ends but he had GRP in-between his 16 cells , two cells where swollen from the top, so he removed them,
they been using them for just over a year , he now thinking to change to Wilson cells ,
He had no idea why it happen .

Can't say where the cells where brought except both said they got them on the net from China .

Both setup seen well put together no movement when I sew them ,
Have to say I didn't see the damage cells in place so most I wrote is what I was told .


Mine on the other hand are plastic cells and I have nothing between each cell one end is against the boat GRP the other has a plywood end and there are held in place with three strap with ratchet tension buckle ,
I check once a month of tightness and the bars, never have managed to get one turn on the ratchet so far and we have been out in some heavy weather so I'm quite happy with them.
Other then the BMS there nothing I would change
Most we drawn out at any time is 180A amps normally it's around 110/130A tops .
The test going to be went I try my 230ac water maker with its 1.5 hp motor,
looking at 220A at 12v that's going to be interesting.
 

Poey50

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I'm sure your right regarding cells 1 and 4 and it worst for me as we have 8 cells working off one bms , also the other boat I fitted lithium on ( talk about the blind leading the blind) as the same problem actually Simon is cruising with us at the moment as he like my way of getting around the 90/180 days rules but that's another thing
And we offen Compair reading although I do use a lot more Amps then he .

As you probably remember I wasn't impressed with the smart 123 and knowing what I know now I would had brought something else and much cheaper too ,
I was even less impress when after just three weeks it came to light that one of the relay wasn't working , I may have shorten it out sticking them stupid wires maybe it was just faulty who know and when I call them for advice they said they didn't keep parts and best they could offer was to buy a new unit, not even send it in to check it or has Its only three weeks old we give a bit of a discount . But hey that's company's for you.

I'm not sure if the bms ever packed up I would replace them , charging at 13.8v they need to be a long way out to top one cell out , it just mean keeping an eye on them and balance then if they did go too far out and we watch them like hark anyway.
I'm sure many may think it's a bad idea, ut until it's tried who know.

I'm finding by mid day on a good day and on a bad day late afternoon they charged and we having to turn on the hot water heater to draw power , there only been one time when we sailed for 55 hours on semi cloud days and radar going at nights we not seen them reach 13.8v since we fitted them even while we was in the winter marina we wasn't using shore power to charge and with short days and shading from other boats we was still reaching 13.8v or close enough .

Re the damage battery's we met one cruiser in May in a anchorage who had 8 cells he used rubber from an old dinghy in-between each cells and compressed the cell with end plywood and threaded rod some how the rubber worn and the cells rub which cause the short , looking at the set up I couldn't work out how it happen the rubber was quite thick , I did wonder of something else cause the problem, they where well compressed so how did the rubber wear?

The second cruiser was just few weeks back in Sicily , sim set up with threaded rods and plywood ends but he had GRP in-between his 16 cells , two cells where swollen from the top, so he removed them,
they been using them for just over a year , he now thinking to change to Wilson cells ,
He had no idea why it happen .

Can't say where the cells where brought except both said they got them on the net from China .

Both setup seen well put together no movement when I sew them ,
Have to say I didn't see the damage cells in place so most I wrote is what I was told .


Mine on the other hand are plastic cells and I have nothing between each cell one end is against the boat GRP the other has a plywood end and there are held in place with three strap with ratchet tension buckle ,
I check once a month of tightness and the bars, never have managed to get one turn on the ratchet so far and we have been out in some heavy weather so I'm quite happy with them.
Other then the BMS there nothing I would change
Most we drawn out at any time is 180A amps normally it's around 110/130A tops .
The test going to be went I try my 230ac water maker with its 1.5 hp motor,
looking at 220A at 12v that's going to be interesting.

Thanks for the extra description of the aluminium cased cells. Both of those are I suspect user error. Rubber is a bad idea for insulation and bloating of cells is, as far as I know, always caused by overcharging. The rubber insulation guy was lucky not to have had a serious fire. But as I've said from the start of this thread plastic cased from a reputable source is to be preferred if you have the space and the money.
 
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Frankklose

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Finally it has been found that relays are a bad idea for BMS. The contacts melt when shorted. The cheaper BMS like the JBD have a short circuit protection. Almost None of the home photo electric uses relays, only boat users...
 

Poey50

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Finally it has been found that relays are a bad idea for BMS. The contacts melt when shorted. The cheaper BMS like the JBD have a short circuit protection. Almost None of the home photo electric uses relays, only boat users...

Can you explain more what you mean? Are you referring to external relays? If so which relays and which BMS?
 

Frankklose

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External relays for charge and discharge. there a number with of firms with these external relais on the market. They use the relais instead mosfets.
 

nfluester

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@nfluester did you not build a 280ah pack?

how did it go and what bms did you use?
Yes I have 8 x EVE 280ah in a 2p 4s 560ah house bank using a REC ABMS which has been in and operational since March need to finish off the video series. It's so much quicker to just do stuff than trying to film as well.

I have also just installed 2 Wakespeed WS500 regulators which are connected to the victron VE CAN bus as well as the BMS so a lot to film and update every one on.

This new battery is a bit of a science project to see is I can get rid of our 2 110ah lead acid start batteries with this one nicer lighter package and if it performs well I might get the smaller 60ah version for the bow thruster too.
 

nfluester

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LFP for starting is a bit of a frontier project. Will be interesting to hear how you get on. At least with Winston you are likely to be buying good kit.
Yep someone has to try this stuff for it to make progress I enjoy the tinkering around.

We are so pleased with our house bank we just did 2 weeks away and for the 1st time didn't take the suitcase generator! 2 fridges on, Shower from the immersion heater every morning we now have a panasonic combination oven which is heaven compared to the old gas one.

Lifepo4 is such a game changer u don't realise till you have had lead acids for a few years and your on appolo 13 trying to conserve every amp then take the plunge to lofepo4, it charges so much faster, delivers power so much more consistently and enable power on tap with a decent inverter.
 

Poey50

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Lifepo4 is such a game changer u don't realise till you have had lead acids for a few years and your on appolo 13 trying to conserve every amp then take the plunge to lofepo4, it charges so much faster, delivers power so much more consistently and enable power on tap with a decent inverter.

Same. I installed a mains charger and galvanic isolator a year ago but haven't even plugged into the mains to test them. Most of the time I run the engine without the alternator switched on - I don't need the power. Until LFP we weren't able to have a permanent fridge. Now we can, plus maintain our Torqeedo outboard and all other charging just on 190 watts of solar. No fretting about returning batteries to full charge. It's a quite incredible difference. All on an LFP pack the same physical size as a single 80ah lead acid battery.
 
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Jokani

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Yes I have 8 x EVE 280ah in a 2p 4s 560ah house bank using a REC ABMS which has been in and operational since March need to finish off the video series. It's so much quicker to just do stuff than trying to film as well.

I have also just installed 2 Wakespeed WS500 regulators which are connected to the victron VE CAN bus as well as the BMS so a lot to film and update every one on.

I'll be installing a REC BMS and a single WS500 in the next week or so, would be very interested in any further insight you could pass on.
 

vas

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Yep someone has to try this stuff for it to make progress I enjoy the tinkering around.

We are so pleased with our house bank we just did 2 weeks away and for the 1st time didn't take the suitcase generator! 2 fridges on, Shower from the immersion heater every morning we now have a panasonic combination oven which is heaven compared to the old gas one.

Lifepo4 is such a game changer u don't realise till you have had lead acids for a few years and your on appolo 13 trying to conserve every amp then take the plunge to lofepo4, it charges so much faster, delivers power so much more consistently and enable power on tap with a decent inverter.
All v.exciting, my only objection is that I v.much doubt there's an el.oven that can cook better food than a gas one ?
On a serious note it's hard to comprehend how same solar panels can provide so much more power to lifepo4 compared to la. Looking forward to experiencing it next summer

V
 

sailaboutvic

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Yes I have 8 x EVE 280ah in a 2p 4s 560ah house bank using a REC ABMS which has been in and operational since March need to finish off the video series. It's so much quicker to just do stuff than trying to film as well.

I have also just installed 2 Wakespeed WS500 regulators which are connected to the victron VE CAN bus as well as the BMS so a lot to film and update every one on.

This new battery is a bit of a science project to see is I can get rid of our 2 110ah lead acid start batteries with this one nicer lighter package and if it performs well I might get the smaller 60ah version for the bow thruster too.
I don't see no reason why lithium won't work for starting the engine or bow T , I'm drawing well in 180A for long periods of time without any problems .
What good to hear is everyone here who change to lithium no matter what type cells are please with then , anyone reading this forum who thinking about changing but holding of because of the cost , let me say the cost is well worth it if you using them for powering more then just you navigation stuff .
 

Poey50

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On a serious note it's hard to comprehend how same solar panels can provide so much more power to lifepo4 compared to la. Looking forward to experiencing it next summer

I've learned first-hand that capacity comparisons in amp-hours based on depth of discharge are only part of the story. The higher voltage of LFP and lack of sag means that watt-hour comparisons reveal greater differences. But the biggest factor is how LFP does not limit the ability of solar to harvest energy above 80% SOC in the way that lead acid does.
 

Kelpie

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Same. I installed a mains charger and galvanic isolator a year ago but haven't even plugged into the mains to test them. Most of the time I run the engine without the alternator switched on - I don't need the power. Until LFP we weren't able to have a permanent fridge. Now we can, plus maintain our Torqeedo outboard and all other charging just on 190 watts of solar. No fretting about returning batteries to full charge. It's a quite incredible difference. All on an LFP pack the same physical size as a single 80ah lead acid battery.

This is very encouraging. We have 720w solar installed and another 400w potentially if I can give up the deck space.

The only thing now holding up my installation is waiting on the arrival of the PC link cable for my MPPTs...
 

Zing

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LFP for starting is a bit of a frontier project. Will be interesting to hear how you get on. At least with Winston you are likely to be buying good kit.
It’s not a frontier project. Lithium is perfect for the job. Peak current discharge capability is higher than with lead, but just like with lead you do need to consider matching the capacity of the battery to the load. I start my engine and power my bow thruster and it works far better than its lead predecessor. no voltage drop due to peukert, so full performance. I do have a big enough battery of course.
 

gregcope

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I might be investigating this earlier than expected as my six year old 240Ah LA (cheap) bank is more or less kaput. If I draw around 20Ah when a 6A load comes on (eg fridge) the voltage drops to 11v or even 10.5v and my victron 702 low voltage alarm sounds. This has woken me up twice over the last few nights.

i would initally build a battery based on 280Ah or 300Ah cells.

My only confusion is which BMS. Am tempted by a cheaper one.

I intend to keep a FLA (or gell) for an engine start with a victron battery to battery charger. I do not intend to change the alternator.

Most of my solar (220W) is on a victron 75/15 which can be configured for LifePo4 and can be directly attached.

The rest of the solar (100w) is 6V panels and on specific mppt controllers which do not have LifePo4 profiles. There are versions available but they are expensive. I might connect these to the FLA/Gell.

Our loads are simple. Nav/autopilot/lights/fridge. No induction or electric oven although i like the idea of getting rid of gass at some stage.

So question is … which BMS?
 
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