1GM10 leaking water pump - questions

[slawosz]

Hi,
my water pump is leaking through drip hole. I found this service kit - Yanmar 1GM10 Raw water pump impeller & service kits - I wonder if anyone has experience with parts4engine, as those are non Yanmar original and I wonder about quality.
Now, I took a look into exploding diagram of the pump it seems very easy. My question is, do I need to lubricate anything other than impellor itself?
I also have old pump that seems to be overhauled - I understand I can check it simply by installing it and seeing if water is flowing and its not leaking?
Regarding shaft, how do I check if its due to replacement?

Thanks!

 

[JVL]

Hi,
my water pump is leaking through drip hole. I found this service kit - Yanmar 1GM10 Raw water pump impeller & service kits - I wonder if anyone has experience with parts4engine, as those are non Yanmar original and I wonder about quality.
Now, I took a look into exploding diagram of the pump it seems very easy. My question is, do I need to lubricate anything other than impellor itself?
I also have old pump that seems to be overhauled - I understand I can check it simply by installing it and seeing if water is flowing and its not leaking?
Regarding shaft, how do I check if its due to replacement?

Thanks!

Having rebuilt the 2gm pump that looks like the right kit. You appear to have caught the seal failure early enough the pump shaft should be ok .
John

 

[slawosz]

Thanks. What causes shaft failure in this kind of pump?

 

[JVL]

Thanks. What causes shaft failure in this kind of pump?

Shaft is stainless, if it “ sits unmoved “ it’s subject to crevice corrosion. Viv , forum resident expert on such matters will probably be able to explain better than I.
John

 

[andsarkit]

If you need a new shaft try ff-systems.
He is Dinghyman of this parish and does superduplex ones which should not suffer from crevice corrosion.

 

[Sailing steve]

Shafts and seals can also wear if there's a lot of sediment in the raw water you're pumping through.

If the shaft has worn where the seals contact it it's worth trying new seals and putting a shim behind the inner one - I used a 1.5mm tap washer - which displaces the seal slightly in the housing and therefore the lip runs on an unworn section of the shaft.

I did this and rebuilt my 1GM10 pump with aftermarket seals three years ago saving some £80 over the cost of a full refurb kit and it's not leaked a drop since.

 

[PeteCooper]

Rebuilding the pump is easy.
If it has been leaking check the oil pipe that runs underneath the pump - it can corrode and release the oil.

 

[Sailing steve]

My leaky pump had corroded the pipes.

I replaced the rigid Yanmar ones that are outrageously expensive with two flexible hoses made up at a local hydraulic pipe specialist and supported them with a SS bracket from the chandlers so they don't bounce around when the engine is running . You need to measure very carefully as they're a tight fit and take the banjo bolts along to make sure you get the right size fittings crimped on.

Total cost including 8 copper sealing rings was about £16. Yanmar prices for their OE pipes are ten times that.

 

[slawosz]

Thanks @Sailing steve - what material did you use for pipe fittings?

 

[Sailing steve]

Thanks @Sailing steve - what material did you use for pipe fittings?

Its a flexible oil hose rated at 10 Bar with crimped fittings.

They were made by Anglian Hose and Hydraulic near Colchester. I took some stiff wire I'd bent into the lengths I needed, explained to the chap what I wanted the hoses for and told him what the max engine oil pressure was, showed him the banjo bolts and 10 mins later I walked out with them in my paws.

Perfect fit first time so I went back and had another identical set made as spares to keep onboard just in case.

 

[slawosz]

Btw, does anyone know what is the diameter of the tube that goes to the block - I would like to source o-ring before the weekend so I can try the spare pump I found on board.

 

[DinghyMan]

Btw, does anyone know what is the diameter of the tube that goes to the block - I would like to source o-ring before the weekend so I can try the spare pump I found on board.

Pump body O ring is 41mm O/D x 35mm I/D x 3mm thick

 

[slawosz]

Thanks. Can I not use o-ring if I just want to test other pump for few minutes?

 

[Gixer]

I bought a fuel lift pump for my 1GM10 from parts4engine. Fitted and works perfectly.

 

[DinghyMan]

Thanks. Can I not use o-ring if I just want to test other pump for few minutes?

I can't see any issue reusing one

 

[Sailing steve]

Thanks. Can I not use o-ring if I just want to test other pump for few minutes?

The absolutely crucial thing with the 1GM10 cooling system to is to avoid is seawater mixing with lube oil. That's why there's two seals on the pump shaft and a tell-tale hole underneath the pump and it's always a sound plan to check lube oil regularly for any indication of a mayonnaise like sludge on the dipstick or round the oil filler hole or cap that'll show you have a problem.

The worst that can happen if you reuse the pump/block mounting O ring is you'll have an external oil leak which won't be much more than an occasional drip as the rear pump face and shaft bearings are only splash lubricated.

Make sure all the contact surfaces are clean and fit the pump and ring with a thin wipe of grease and have a good long test run on your mooring or with a bucket and hose. Whilst the pump is off make sure all the transfer pipes and orifices are clear of salt and scale deposits, check the hoses are good by twisting and mauling them about and make sure the thermostst is opening and closing in a pan of cold, bought to the boil and then cooled down water and you'll have no drama at all.

 

[slawosz]

I understand that I don’t need to grease shaft and water seal?

 

[JVL]

I understand that I don’t need to grease shaft and water seal?

You shouldn’t need to grease the stainless seals are spring loaded to grip the shaft
John

 

[slawosz]

Thanks. Someone used 3 in 1 for installation I guess it won’t hurt? What can I use to clean the pump body and shaft?

 

[Bilgediver]

Thanks. What causes shaft failure in this kind of pump?

I have never seen a corrosion problem on this type of pump however I have seen the shaft at the water pump seal develop ridges around the circumference in way of the lip seal sealing lip which is a cause of leakage .These ridges develop much faster if sailing in muddy or sandy water. Being a tight Welshman and considering the cost of shafts in the Volvo equivalents I discovered an answer. These seals are manufactured to several designs. I discovered I could get a similar seal with double lips . When installed this seal was bearing on unworn areas of the shaft.
These are bog standard 12 mm seals with stainless springs on the small Volvo pumps and available from such suppliers as Bearing Services at a fraction of Volvo and Yanmar prices. I always keep a few on board. The Yanmar pump seal might not be 12mm but will be a standard size.