1994 Fairline Targa: Electrics Confusion

[PaulRainbow]

Thanks Pete
Configuration understood.
The helm on my Targa has hand-written paper labels with images and text written on them so still working through what's what. Established that the far left is the cockpit lights - is engraved on the switch iteslf.
Moving left to right the next 2 switches have lights engraved on the switches and labels which say 'Nav' and 'Moor'. I am interpreting the 'nav' switch will operate the aspect lights (sidelights, stern light and masthead light), and the 'Moor' will switch on th anchor light.
The switch on the far right marked 'Vent' operates the blower in the engine bay.
The 2 rocker switches have a label label above one of them (but not able to decipher) so open to suggestions, and the switch in the middle has no label nor markings on it (so open to suggestions on this one too).
The whole panel needs to be replaced and the switches renewed (once I establish what they operate and all are working)

The 2 with the knobbly tops are Carling Contura. I would replace them all with Carling switches. You buy the bodies then choose from different styles of top, with or without laser etching. You can fit them as they are, in separate holes, or mount them in a frame, which is much nicer.

Some examples Marine Switch Rockers

Frames and switches from the same people, good to deal with.

This is my lower helm dash (under construction at the time) ;



Finished:

 

[ClaytonDJ]

The 2 with the knobbly tops are Carling Contura. I would replace them all with Carling switches. You buy the bodies then choose from different styles of top, with or without laser etching. You can fit them as they are, in separate holes, or mount them in a frame, which is much nicer.

Some examples Marine Switch Rockers

Frames and switches from the same people, good to deal with.

This is my lower helm dash (under construction at the time) ;

View attachment 210309

Finished:

View attachment 210311

WOW
That looks mighty impressive - something I can aspire to do.
The Carling Contra switches do look good (nice and clear). Have you used two x 6-gang panels bonded together to make the frame holding 12 switches?

 

[petem]

The 2 with the knobbly tops are Carling Contura. I would replace them all with Carling switches. You buy the bodies then choose from different styles of top, with or without laser etching. You can fit them as they are, in separate holes, or mount them in a frame, which is much nicer.

Some examples Marine Switch Rockers

Frames and switches from the same people, good to deal with.

This is my lower helm dash (under construction at the time) ;

View attachment 210309

Finished:

View attachment 210311

Ahem, see - Fairline Rocker Switch Actuator / Cover Kit – Smart Marine ! I also keep a stock of the switch bases, ON-OFF, OFF/ON/OFF, momentary versions, etc.

 

[ClaytonDJ]

Ahem, see - Fairline Rocker Switch Actuator / Cover Kit – Smart Marine ! I also keep a stock of the switch bases, ON-OFF, OFF/ON/OFF, momentary versions, etc.

I knew it.
Once I have my wiring sorted and a design for the switches on the helm, I'll seek a quote from you Pete.

 

[PaulRainbow]

WOW
That looks mighty impressive - something I can aspire to do.

Thanks 6 years older than yours!

The Carling Contra switches do look good (nice and clear). Have you used two x 6-gang panels bonded together to make the frame holding 12 switches?

No. You can make the housing in your own sizes using interlocking mounts, or get one of Petes panels, or both.

 

[ClaytonDJ]

Those connectors are amongst the worse things you could fit, you can see why

These are a good solution Inline splicing connector with levers (221-2411) | WAGO GB

You can stick them together in groups with epoxy then stick them in p[lace, or use some of these Mounting carrier with strain relief (221-2505) | WAGO GB

I've just ordered 20 of the in-line connectors and 4 of (5-way) mounting carriers to completely replace the plastic choc block. The mounting blocks screw in - just wondering whether sikaflex offers a better solution? Removable if I ever need to add more/re-position.
The panel (and most 'removeable' covers on the boat) appear to be stuck in with sikaflex (or something very similar).
On this subject - what do you recommend to remove the remnants of sikaflex left behind when you strip it off?

 

[ClaytonDJ]

Thanks 6 years older than yours!

No. You can make the housing in your own sizes using interlocking mounts, or get one of Petes panels, or both.

Didn't notice that the panels are interlocking - thought they were fixed size units depending on the number of switches held.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Didn't notice that the panels are interlocking - thought they were fixed size units depending on the number of switches held.

Fixed 2, 3 and 6 way

Also interlocking ends and middle sections, which are what i used, aprt from the engine switches, lower right in the picture, they are two way ones.

Carling Interlocking Mounts.

No reason not use 2x6 if you chose to though.

 

[petem]

Thanks Pete
Configuration understood.
The helm on my Targa has hand-written paper labels with images and text written on them so still working through what's what. Established that the far left is the cockpit lights - is engraved on the switch iteslf.
Moving left to right the next 2 switches have lights engraved on the switches and labels which say 'Nav' and 'Moor'. I am interpreting the 'nav' switch will operate the aspect lights (sidelights, stern light and masthead light), and the 'Moor' will switch on th anchor light.
The switch on the far right marked 'Vent' operates the blower in the engine bay.
The 2 rocker switches have a label label above one of them (but not able to decipher) so open to suggestions, and the switch in the middle has no label nor markings on it (so open to suggestions on this one too).
The whole panel needs to be replaced and the switches renewed (once I establish what they operate and all are working)


View attachment 210304

I've just realised I own you a reply ref your dashboard panels. I can make flat Perspex panels with laser cut or potentially bevelled edges. However, making a panel with a curve in it is rather hard so you may be better off speaking to Brian Wards or a company like that.

An another option, as your boat is abroad it might be worth seeing if there's a company more local that could make you a GRP panel based on your existing one. That would be a smart solution and would last forever. Alternatively, you could wrap or dip your existing wooden panel to make it look a bit smarter.

Does anyone else have any suggestions?

 

[PaulRainbow]

I've just realised I own you a reply ref your dashboard panels. I can make flat Perspex panels with laser cut or potentially bevelled edges. However, making a panel with a curve in it is rather hard so you may be better off speaking to Brian Wards or a company like that.

An another option, as your boat is abroad it might be worth seeing if there's a company more local that could make you a GRP panel based on your existing one. That would be a smart solution and would last forever. Alternatively, you could wrap or dip your existing wooden panel to make it look a bit smarter.

Does anyone else have any suggestions?

What is curved Pete ?

 

[ClaytonDJ]

I've just realised I own you a reply ref your dashboard panels. I can make flat Perspex panels with laser cut or potentially bevelled edges. However, making a panel with a curve in it is rather hard so you may be better off speaking to Brian Wards or a company like that.

An another option, as your boat is abroad it might be worth seeing if there's a company more local that could make you a GRP panel based on your existing one. That would be a smart solution and would last forever. Alternatively, you could wrap or dip your existing wooden panel to make it look a bit smarter.

Does anyone else have any suggestions?

Thanks Pete - my initial thinking was to try and keep thins as true to the original buold/design as possible - but having seen Paul's "flash dash" - I'm re-thinking that maybe a fresh design for the helm layout wouldn't be too much of a betrayal to fairline.
Currently my helm is as produced in 1994 - complete with white GRP housing, wooden panels, and the white chart table behind the wheel.
I've seen some folks do away with the chart table and build a bespoke unit to sit in its place that houses all the instruments - but not totally persuaded by that route yet.

If I can find someone local that could produce a new GRP panel that mirrors my existing one - then might be easier than trying to get one in my suitcase and through customs!