"Condensation management" should be part of the design as should ventilation. On the boats I have had experience with there have been two parts to the air inlets, one for the engine and the other for the rest of the boat. There has also been a inner shell under the superstructure with a few...
They are all really very noisy and it’s unlikely they fail at 350 hours and if they sound the same and do their job after 750 hours I would be inclined to leave them as is. If I still could not leave it I would start by comparing the sound of mine to another one before spending my money.
Can't say I remember any relays tripping, there was a fuse iirc and -yes the clutch can go bad and short to ground but as DavidJ says it's easy to check.
I would listen to this and it's an easy first check, take off the exhaust knee and use your fingers to try and spin the turbo, it should spin freely without much resistance.
I am glad it worked out and you are correct, not many "prop shops" understand this and I've had my fair share of harch discussions with them. On newish, original props there is a metal cover over the hub that gets very close to the SS in the prop (less than 1mm) and this sometimes falls off...
I don't know why it switched off but to echo the sentiment and expand it to all KAD engines, the oil cooler need a refurb or change of o'rings at around 10 years and if you don't they will need replacing a few years later and if you don't, they will fail in another few years. This is a pic of...
If it is the C style SS that goes with the DPE drive the hub is designed to and needs to be isolated from the SS steel. Over time or "suddenly" one year this isolation stops working due to corrosion and general (mis)handling. Anyhow, very common and when it happens the anodes starts to wear...
Again I have no experience of the electronics of this particular engine but I would assume this would throw a code and put the engine in limp mode until you restart and it happens again.
Sounds like a faulty throttle potentiometer in the throttle lever but I have no experience.
Is it possible to swap the controls so that the starboard control operates the port engine ? If so you can confirm if its the control as the problem moves to the other engine.
If they show the revs and not the hours its the lcd display. If they don't show revs its likely a connection issue or something with the source. I think the feed is from the generator.
Its a problem with the hour counter display, they need to be replaced or you can get a new tachometer. This has been on here many times and you should be able to find the right post/answer using the search function.
I agree with BruceK, that is way too difficult a cold start so very likely a fuel delivery issue and like MartynG says you probably have an air leak. You can still also have bad fuel or a bad turbo.