Yarmouth 23 - fitting new engine feet

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MINESAPINT2

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I am looking for my "next boat" and have recently viewed a Yarmouth 23 (771 mile round trip). I soon realised the boat was not in the condition I had expected for a 12/13 year old boat.

One of the problems on this boat is the cockpit sole has been leaking and water dripping onto the after part of the engine and in particular the after engine feet. The engine is a small Beta (approx 13 hp). I came across the same problem with another Yarmouth 23 and a survey revealed the engine feet needed to be replaced. Quotation obtained for the work was a staggering £2,500.

I reckon it is impossible to determine if the feet do need to be replaced (owner has been lashing waxoyl onto them) but taking a risk is not an option. If one failed at sea the consequences will probably be catastrophic.

Recent enquiries reveal the cost of 4 new feet to be £150.

The £2,500 included lifting the engine out and I am wondering if this is actually necessary. Could I do this job myself by tilting the engine and fitting the forward pair then the after pair.

Look forward to replies

Mike
 
MINESAPINT2 said:
I am looking for my "next boat" and have recently viewed a Yarmouth 23 (771 mile round trip). I soon realised the boat was not in the condition I had expected for a 12/13 year old boat.

One of the problems on this boat is the cockpit sole has been leaking and water dripping onto the after part of the engine and in particular the after engine feet. The engine is a small Beta (approx 13 hp). I came across the same problem with another Yarmouth 23 and a survey revealed the engine feet needed to be replaced. Quotation obtained for the work was a staggering £2,500.

I reckon it is impossible to determine if the feet do need to be replaced (owner has been lashing waxoyl onto them) but taking a risk is not an option. If one failed at sea the consequences will probably be catastrophic.

Recent enquiries reveal the cost of 4 new feet to be £150.

The £2,500 included lifting the engine out and I am wondering if this is actually necessary. Could I do this job myself by tilting the engine and fitting the forward pair then the after pair.

Look forward to replies

Mike
Click to expand...
By feet do you mean rubber mounts?
Depending on access, do them one at a time in stu.
Try AVindustrial for very good prices
 
Much will depend on how much extra space/height there is in the engine box, but on my boat I managed to replace the aft pair of feet by just hoisting the engine up maybe 100mm or so.
This was on a Beta 722.
enginelift.jpg
 
MINESAPINT2 said:
I am looking for my "next boat" and have recently viewed a Yarmouth 23 (771 mile round trip). I soon realised the boat was not in the condition I had expected for a 12/13 year old boat.

One of the problems on this boat is the cockpit sole has been leaking and water dripping onto the after part of the engine and in particular the after engine feet. The engine is a small Beta (approx 13 hp). I came across the same problem with another Yarmouth 23 and a survey revealed the engine feet needed to be replaced. Quotation obtained for the work was a staggering £2,500.

I reckon it is impossible to determine if the feet do need to be replaced (owner has been lashing waxoyl onto them) but taking a risk is not an option. If one failed at sea the consequences will probably be catastrophic.

Recent enquiries reveal the cost of 4 new feet to be £150.

The £2,500 included lifting the engine out and I am wondering if this is actually necessary. Could I do this job myself by tilting the engine and fitting the forward pair then the after pair.

Look forward to replies

Mike
Click to expand...

Yes you could do them yourself. If the flexible engine mounts are bolted to brackets that are bolted to the sides of the engine/gearbox then remove the mounts and brackets together. That way you only need to lift the engine about 6mm. Once the new ones are in you will then need to spend some time adjusting the heights to ensure they are taking an even share of the load and to align the engine with the shaft before coupling up. Recommend you get the correct mounts from the engine supplier as the flexibility of the rubber parts are tailored to the engine weights and may be different front to back due to weight distribution.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
NickRobinson said:
By feet do you mean rubber mounts?
Depending on access, do them one at a time in stu.
Click to expand...

+1. Probably no need to raise the engine at all. Have had both of the front ones off by doing them one at a time, no problem.

Worth measuring exactly where on the thread the engine sits so that you then do not have to worry about shaft alignment on reassembly.

If you mean the brackets that are on the engine (they are pretty thick so would be surprised) - these also come off easily, and you can take them off one by one, mount and all, so reassembly in the correct place is even easier.

Assuming sufficient access.
 
banger said:
Can't advise on the mounting but if you're looking for a gaffer the oysterman 22 is a better boat, and if you are in or near Scotland there is an excellent one there for sale, no it's not mine, but I know it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Banger, You are correct no doubt, the Oysterman is streets ahead. I am aware of the boat to which you refer. However I went to Plymouth to view an Oysterman which is advertised as having encapsulated lead ballast to discover that my hand bearing compass went crazy when in the vicinity of this "lead" ballast. Further investigation revealed one Oysterman (Avocet I believe) has had problems with the ballast rusting and had to have it removed with a jack hammer. Saw her for sale on boatsandoutboards and phoned her owner who advised me of this. Just makes one wary!

Mike
 
yhe suggestion to remove the brackets is a good one. You can then attach the new mounts at close to the same height as the old, although you will still have re-align the engine as the rubber may have collapsed a bit on the old.

Difficulty will depend on access and your own "flexibility" but i guess the leaky cockpit hatch will help with the aft ones and the front ones should be easy from the cabin. I have a similar engine (Nanni) in my old boat and for various reasons have done a lot of fiddling with mounts as I installed it. Probably similar access to yours. Tedious but not difficult.
 
Plum said:
Yes you could do them yourself. If the flexible engine mounts are bolted to brackets that are bolted to the sides of the engine/gearbox then remove the mounts and brackets together. That way you only need to lift the engine about 6mm. Once the new ones are in you will then need to spend some time adjusting the heights to ensure they are taking an even share of the load and to align the engine with the shaft before coupling up. Recommend you get the correct mounts from the engine supplier as the flexibility of the rubber parts are tailored to the engine weights and may be different front to back due to weight distribution.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Click to expand...

Thanks Plum,

Great suggestion, one I had not thought of. Glad I posted!

However the boat in question has many other issues, stained cabin lining due to leaks, very poor varnish condition on mast (planed by fitting on gaff) , hatch & washboards varnish in dreadful condition, galley cupboard door coming apart due to central panel swelling with damp (presumably), uppermost piece of teak across the transom above the tiller broken presumably due to the tiller being raised into it, original standing rigging (12/13 years), jury rigged VHF antenna, Navtex not working, as well as the possible issue with the engine mounts and is in my opinion for sale with an asking price that would be reasonable for a boat in tip top condition but with the above issues? In addition the owner has made clear he is not interested in much negotiation on the asking price of £28k and has advised me a Yarmouth 23 of similar age has recently changed hands for £30,500.

Otherwise the boat is tidy with hardly any engine hours, from memory less than 300 and only about 2,500M logged in the plotter log.

Still cogitating

Mike
 
Last edited:
Plum's suggestion usually is the way to go.

However, it's possible that poor access might make this impracticable, in which case it may be possible to wind the central stud of the rubber mount all the way out. If so, the other three mounts need only be wound up a little to allow the mount to be slid out (after unbolting it from the bed, of course).
 
That is an astonishing price, can only think its a job they didn't want to do so quoted high. I had Golden Arrow change my VP 2003 feet two years ago with a couple of other jobs. Having watched them I do it, I will do it myself if there is a next time. They used a series of small 4x4" and 2x2" wooden blocks and a large crow bar to lift the engine one corner at a time, change the foot and then move on to the next corner. You probably need an extra pair of hands but the time consuming bit will be aligning the propshaft afterwards.

Pete

Pete
 
MINESAPINT2 said:
Thanks Plum,

Great suggestion, one I had not thought of. Glad I posted!

However the boat in question has many other issues, stained cabin lining due to leaks, very poor varnish condition on mast (planed by fitting on gaff) , hatch & washboards varnish in dreadful condition, galley cupboard door coming apart due to central panel swelling with damp (presumably), uppermost piece of teak across the transom above the tiller broken presumably due to the tiller being raised into it, original standing rigging (12/13 years), jury rigged VHF antenna, Navtex not working, as well as the possible issue with the engine mounts and is in my opinion for sale with an asking price that would be reasonable for a boat in tip top condition but with the above issues? In addition the owner has made clear he is not interested in much negotiation on the asking price of £28k and has advised me a Yarmouth 23 of similar age has recently changed hands for £30,500.

Otherwise the boat is tidy with hardly any engine hours, from memory less than 300 and only about 2,500M logged in the plotter log.

Still cogitating

Mike
Click to expand...
You obviously have two choices, make an offer that takes into account she is a neglected boat or walk away. Dont be swayed by the low engine hours, it is how an engine has been looked after that is more important than hours.

Glad you are after a gaffer!

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
MikeBz said:
And some going for a lot more :eek::eek::eek: http://www.apolloduck.co.uk/feature.phtml?id=478451

Edited to say: The ad is nothing to do with me, I just marvelled at the price when I cycled past it in the yard yesterday.
Click to expand...

You have to remember that new a well specced boat will be £70k+. There are three in our club and all owners are similar background. Retired, downsizing and enjoying the fruits of their working life by having a new boat that they always hankered after.

There are no pockets on a shroud.

Problem is that arguably the number of people in that position is likely to decline in the future.
 
It's quite an easy job to change them yourself. I did my 4 last year ( twice) the first lot were too soft. Took me about 2 hours. Don't forget to disconnect the prop shaft.
 
Not sure if you've bought the new mounts yet, or what engine you have.

When I needed new mounts for my old 1GM10 I double took at the price of the Yanmar OE mounts. Extortion.

I was about to buy a set of particularly nice looking urethane mounts from Powerflex when I decided to repower with a new 1GM10. It may be worth you googling Powerflex and asking for their price and delivery for the mounts. (They are sooo much nicer than the originals...)
 
Plum said:
You obviously have two choices, make an offer that takes into account she is a neglected boat or walk away. Dont be swayed by the low engine hours, it is how an engine has been looked after that is more important than hours.

Glad you are after a gaffer!

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Click to expand...
Or the third choice is take a look at the one I linked to earlier. I know the owner is very particular and I would expect you to be pleased with the condition of the boat.
 
BabaYaga said:
Much will depend on how much extra space/height there is in the engine box, but on my boat I managed to replace the aft pair of feet by just hoisting the engine up maybe 100mm or so.
This was on a Beta 722.
enginelift.jpg
Click to expand...

the studs in the foot unscrew, so no need to lift at all & replacement feet from AV Mounts at a very reasonable cost :encouragement:
 
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