Yanmar 1gm removal

[Laundryman]

My westerley is in the water. Having fitted a temporary outboard I plan to remove the inboard yanmar to recondition.Can i remove it with the boat in the water. Do i remove it with the gearbox. Do i have to do anything to the shaft to hold it in place? I am concerned that the shaft will fall out underway. Any advice is welcome. Thanks

 

[FlorealIII]

Yes you can remove the engine with the boat in the water . It is better to remove the gearbox also , if not the weight of the gear will press on the shaft . The shaft can move back and forward now but as long as you keep the coupling flange in place it will not fall out . It is better to fix it by some means so that it doesn't move to and fro !

 

[steve28]

No problem taking the engine out, if weight is not an issue leave the gearbox on. i suggest removing things like the starter motor and alternator to make access to the mounts easier.
Leave the drive flange on the end of the shaft and just undo the four bolts, to stop the shaft moving backwards use several jubilee clips around the shaft and if you intend to use the boat with the outboard then also lock the shaft to prevent any damage to the inner stuffing box.

 

[30boat]

Yes, you can remove it with the boat in the water.It's quite light and can usually be lifted by hand but it can strain your back so be careful.No need to remove the gearbox.As for the shaft there's a flange attached to it wich will prevent it from sliding away but it has to be restrained from turning when the boat is moving.Just tie it with a piece of thin rope through one of the bolt holes.
I used to do it on my old boat,there's nothing to it.

 

[Slinky Spring]

I did it last year. It took me about 4 hours but about 2 of them were to undo the coupling bolts.
By way of preparation I would soak everything that needs undoing in wd40/release oil to give it a chance to soak in.
I would recommend taking lots of photos of everthing as you disconnect them. You will be suprised how quickly you forget where a particular wire goes.
Also something I hadn't anticipated was the fact that i would lose my electrics when the ground was disconnected from the engine.
A headtorch is an absolute godsend for this sort of job as it points exactly where you are looking.
I would advise taking the engine mounts off still attached to the engine if possible. It will make the engine easier to work on at home and will make realigning it later easier as the mount adjustment will be the same.
I used the mainsheet to lift the engine out into the cockpit then bolted it to a piece of plywood with approx 6 inch blocks of wood for the engine mounts to sit on. Once attached this it was a lot easier for others to help lift it and to slide it into the car etc
Iwould also advise taking the control panel out as well as it makes it a lot easier to start once you have done the work and are testing it.
Good luck

 

[Tranona]

Agree with all the posts having done the same with a 1GM. if you are doing the work yourself suggest you invest in the official works manual available from Yanmar dealers - probably have to order it. Infinitely better than the aftermarket ones.

Just suggestions on points to attend to while it is out. Clean or replace all the water hoses, particularly the vertical by pass hose. Overhaul the water pump (dealer job but not expensive). Replace cover with Speedseal design. Check external oil pipes particularly the one under the front cover for corrosion. Replace if bad, clean and hammerite otherwise. Replace any bolts that show signs of corrosion particularly the ones holding the water pump in. Replace all sealing washers. Check the exhaust elbow internally very carefully. Don't forget the anode in the block.

Quite a satisfying activity when you get it back running.

 

[Spuddy]

I did exactly this a couple of months ago. Nothing really to add to others' suggestions except that it can be manhandled by two people including gearbox. I used mainsheet + a strongback across coamings to lift off mounts ( to avoid using boom loaded at midpoint ). Other problem point was getting off side decks onto pontoon - I used long board as a ramp and was easy with two of us, low freeboard though.

 

[Laundryman]

sound advice from everyone, thank you

 

[pampas]

remember too, that the prop will slide out toward the rudder check clearance between it and the rudder. To stop this happening I would take a off cut of say 15mm x60 mm just short of the width of your engine bay drill two holes that fit the couplingnear the middle, bolt on and Spanish Windlass to engine bed.

 

[wotayottie]

done this before.

the engine is light but it will still be easier to first disconnect the gearbox and also remove both alternator and starter motor. all are pretty quick jobs involving not much more than undoing bolts and a few wires. might be sense to get rid of any other sticky out bits and also drain the oil (which otherwise will self drain the moment you put the engine in the car boot.)

best put a jubilee or something similar round the shaft to stop it disappearing through the stern gland.

the engine block without ancilliaries is a one man job to lift / carry providing you are happy to ignore the manual handling regs. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif