Persistent hatch leak

[KAM]

I have a persistent small drip between the hatch fixed frame and deck. Deck is almost flat just ahead of the hatch and water pools slightly. It seems impossible to remove the frame without damage due to the amount and type of sealant. It's a Lewmar hatch and the drip is on the hinge side. Its difficult to reseal even with the hinged section removed. Should i persevere with trying to remove the frame. Trying to think of an idea to improve the drainage forward but a bit stuck. Any ideas welcome.

 

[greeny]

I have a persistent small drip between the hatch fixed frame and deck. Deck is almost flat just ahead of the hatch and water pools slightly. It seems impossible to remove the frame without damage due to the amount and type of sealant. It's a Lewmar hatch and the drip is on the hinge side. Its difficult to reseal even with the hinged section removed. Should i persevere with trying to remove the frame. Trying to think of an idea to improve the drainage forward but a bit stuck. Any ideas welcome.

More weight in the bow? Bigger anchor?

 

[sailorbenji]

I have a persistent small drip between the hatch fixed frame and deck. Deck is almost flat just ahead of the hatch and water pools slightly. It seems impossible to remove the frame without damage due to the amount and type of sealant. It's a Lewmar hatch and the drip is on the hinge side. Its difficult to reseal even with the hinged section removed. Should i persevere with trying to remove the frame. Trying to think of an idea to improve the drainage forward but a bit stuck. Any ideas welcome.

You should be able to get the frame off, use a cheese-wire to saw through the sealant/adhesive....it's a bit harder if you have the lower flanged frame, you'll have to work each edge in turn if that is the case.

Refrain, as tempting as it is, from pulling on the frame, if you bend it at all, you'll probably induce a leak between it and the lid when the hatch is closed. When you come to re-bed the frame, you really don't need a strong adhesive....you could even bed it on butyl tape and then any future jobs will be significantly easier.

 

[KAM]

Thanks sailorbenji sounds good advice. Hadn't thought about cheese wire but how do you get it in? A bit worried about damaging the anodising. I used butyl on my windows many years ago with great success. There's just too much movement between hull and frame for whatever was used when the hatches were changed by the previous owner.

 

[Refueler]

Have you tried running a line of Capt Tolleys Leak Sealer fluid round it ?

I have a couple of window frames on my 25ft'r that I do each year with it ... lasts the season till I pressure wash at end of season

 

[PabloPicasso]

Captain Trolley's Creeping Crack Cure, at least that's what I think it's called.

 

[mjcp]

Another vote for Capt. Tolley's. (ensure its fully dry before you treat it and stays dry while it cures though!)


Regards the "cheese wire" options:

A process like this:

Remove Car Emblems (Debadging) WITHOUT DAMAGING THE PAINT!​

You will need to get it through in the 1st place, but once there, simples.

 

[KevinV]

Hadn't thought about cheese wire but how do you get it in?

Assuming the frame is a T (on its side) go from the inside out at the corner. I like 0.6mm mig wire for the job, it's stiff enough to poke, flexible enough to go round bends. A couple of dowls for handles.