worn propeller shaft at cutless bearing

[Jcorstorphine]

I used a dent puller

I had a slight problem when I replaced my Stuart bearing in that the rudder fouled me withdrawing the shaft. So faced with the hassel of dropping the rudder and dismantling the thrust bearing. I opted to use a dent puller and screwed it in to the rubber insert. A few backward bangs with the dent puller weight got the insert moving. As the insert came out, I cut off bits and started again. Took about 15 mins to get it out without removing the shaft and the rudder.

 

[wee_niall]

the inboard end of the shaft has negligible wear though which is why i was just going to get the prop end machined down and (hopefully) reuse the cutless bearing housing with a 7/8 bearing...i hadn't really given much thought to the inboard side as it didn't leak and the shaft didn't have much wear so assumed all was hunky dory

 

[wee_niall]

I had a slight problem when I replaced my Stuart bearing in that the rudder fouled me withdrawing the shaft. So faced with the hassel of dropping the rudder and dismantling the thrust bearing. I opted to use a dent puller and screwed it in to the rubber insert. A few backward bangs with the dent puller weight got the insert moving. As the insert came out, I cut off bits and started again. Took about 15 mins to get it out without removing the shaft and the rudder.

that doesn't sound like it's too bad to get out - will probably just cut mine and pull it out now i have it off the boat.

 

[Tranona]

the inboard end of the shaft has negligible wear though which is why i was just going to get the prop end machined down and (hopefully) reuse the cutless bearing housing with a 7/8 bearing...i hadn't really given much thought to the inboard side as it didn't leak and the shaft didn't have much wear so assumed all was hunky dory

Think you will find the inboard end has a white metal bearing liner which needs to be kept greased. Because of the bearing and the solid stuffing box you would not be able to tell if there is any wear without taking the shaft out. Don't think I would mess about with trying to recover that shaft. Not only is it worn but there seems to be crevice corrosion as well.

The bearing housing looks fine. Just clean it up and either have it sleeved for a standard 1" cutless or the cutless that replaces the rubber.

 

[john_morris_uk]

If its any help, I've replaced three prop shafts and never paid more than £100. I've always shopped round the local s/s suppliers and bought a length of 316 stainless bar and then gone to a local engineering workshop. Take the old shaft in to get them to copy the taper, thread and key-way… Its a really simple job for a machine shop and if you supply the stock material then its even easier for them. Its a lunch time job for beer money in some places.

 

[wee_niall]

Think you will find the inboard end has a white metal bearing liner which needs to be kept greased. Because of the bearing and the solid stuffing box you would not be able to tell if there is any wear without taking the shaft out. Don't think I would mess about with trying to recover that shaft. Not only is it worn but there seems to be crevice corrosion as well.

The bearing housing looks fine. Just clean it up and either have it sleeved for a standard 1" cutless or the cutless that replaces the rubber.

most of the marks on the shaft are actually bits of rubber - just a wee bit of corrosion evident near the end which will be machined off.

If its any help, I've replaced three prop shafts and never paid more than £100. I've always shopped round the local s/s suppliers and bought a length of 316 stainless bar and then gone to a local engineering workshop. Take the old shaft in to get them to copy the taper, thread and key-way… Its a really simple job for a machine shop and if you supply the stock material then its even easier for them. Its a lunch time job for beer money in some places.

I've done a fair bit of shopping around including small fabrication places but they are all around the 200 mark...machining the existing shaft down at the aft end is going to be around 30 quid and even with the custom cutless bearing for the stuart housing it's a much cheaper option than a new shaft (and i'd still need a new 1" cutless bearing) and i'd also have to deal with the coupling which looks a nightmare to get off!

 

[john_morris_uk]

I've done a fair bit of shopping around including small fabrication places but they are all around the 200 mark...machining the existing shaft down at the aft end is going to be around 30 quid and even with the custom cutless bearing for the stuart housing it's a much cheaper option than a new shaft (and i'd still need a new 1" cutless bearing) and i'd also have to deal with the coupling which looks a nightmare to get off!

I was only referring to the price of the shaft in my post.

If you are paying for someone to replace the bearing and shaft £200 sounds like a bargain...

 

[Tranona]

most of the marks on the shaft are actually bits of rubber - just a wee bit of corrosion evident near the end which will be machined off.



I've done a fair bit of shopping around including small fabrication places but they are all around the 200 mark...machining the existing shaft down at the aft end is going to be around 30 quid and even with the custom cutless bearing for the stuart housing it's a much cheaper option than a new shaft (and i'd still need a new 1" cutless bearing) and i'd also have to deal with the coupling which looks a nightmare to get off!

Coupling is not a big problem. Undo the clamp screws, spray coupling with penetrating oil, use a puller and with a bit of patience it will come off. Bit of heat also helps. You will find once you break the seal of crud and rust it will come off. Alternatively if you have access a hydraulic press will do it even easier.