Work starting on my MD11C this weekend - nervous

ghostlymoron said:
Keep going swanrad success is within your grasp.
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Thanks, it is all about motivation and money! Must admit yesterday was a low point, mouth full of diesel, failure to progress and what looks like another £300 - for a new tank. Took a bit of perspective to smile again, I'll be back at it next weekend. Spending this weekend glassing in a replacement bulkhead though, as a treat to me - never thought I'd reach the day when that sounded more fun than the alternative job (diesel tank removal).

Cheers.
 
Swanrad2 said:
If anyone is still reading, I will pass on the engineers comments today. Should of been fairly obvious really, but in my keenness to get to combustion I didn't do it. The next stage suggested by him, empty the fuel tank - while we are at it either refurb the tank or replace it, change the tap on the old one as they are useless. Replace all the filters, give the engine another service. Try again-it must be the fuel, if we do this and it doesn't work then call him again. There is, at that point, a reason to involve his skills - for now, I think he was politely suggesting what we need to do can be done by us far more cheaply.

He did tweet the stop button (seemed to move) and the throttle, seemed OK.

Good man - lives and works in Beaumaris.
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Bit mysterious!!!! Are you saying that there was more water than fuel in the diesel tank!!!! Does make things difficult .
 
Bilgediver said:
Bit mysterious!!!! Are you saying that there was more water than fuel in the diesel tank!!!! Does make things difficult .
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We had Limpets growing on the inside of the tank ;)
Had a weekend off the boat this weekend, feeling happier about the whole thing now. Back to it come Saturday
 
Update for those interested - I typed a lovely long and, frankly hilarious update earlier and then accidentally deleted it. So this is the bullet point version ;)

Potted history - engine top end rebuild (heads, valves, gaskets, exhaust manifold&elbow etc) finished. Engine reassembled, started on old diesel ran briefly and then faded gently. Silly. Marine engineer called in - as it didnt go bang or race away it is likely to be 1) fuel system 2) governer. If we do 1) and it doesn't start then call him for 2) as this can go badly wrong. In hindsight I would start any engine rebuild with cleaning the diesel system.

Bilge degreased using Gunk and International Paint Preparation where necessary
Bilge and engine compartment painted using Danboline - although not perfect, far better than it was.
Tank removed.
New inspection hatch cut.
Tank cleaned with fairy liquid and boiling water, repeat until kitchen roll comes away white.
Fuel gauge fitted into the new steal 'inspection hatch' as it is far easier to screw into a flange when you can see both sides and both rubber type gaskets.
Tank wire brushed and Hammerited (in hindsight wish I had used something better as it is a bugger to get in and out)
Tank refitted.
Mild steel screws holding the tank in place (and rusted to buggery) replaced with stainless nuts and bolts - anyone with an original fuel tank in a Centaur, I would check and replace these, the thought of an 8 gallon steel container slamming about doesn't appeal.
Old school diesel filter replaced with new one with glass bowl and drain plug (to finish)
Banjo fittings to be replaced after inspection.
Old diesel pipes blown out using compresor (away from the engine)
Inspection of water inlet showed corrosion on the valve, replaced with new ball valve - cause was the old earth wire to the anode was shot - will replace all connections to anode (and probably prematurely the anode as well while I am at it).
Full service.
Replace th old style twisty tap cut of valve on the tank with a new ball valve. Easier to use and the engineer said the old type are useless (backed up by the fact that this one didnt work)

Otstanding issues -
Cld Start and engine stop cables seized
Throttle (morse style twin) seized - take off, strip and probably ultimately buy a new one anyway!
Final connections in the fuel system
Change the impeller again (check turning smoothly without diesel connected)

Along the way I have also repaired a couple of bulkheads (doubled one up) and painted a couple of lockers.
The electrical system is looking a bit 'vulnerable', fortunately my Father in Law is an Electrician and works for beer (once the boat is habitable again).
I am now also doing the work as my mechanic friend has fallen ill. He assures me he will be able to check my work, but crawling around in a Centaur's engine bay is off his list of things to do for now. Funnily enough, the only was for the uninitiated to learn how to do stuff on engines is by stopping other people from doing them for you - guidance is good, standing there nodding wisely while someone else does all the work, IMO, teaches you 'nout!
That aside - get well soon Les!!!!!
 
Sounds like real progress. One thing, though, do not connect the new water inlet valve to an anode. Not necessary as there is no connection between the valve and any other metal.
 
Tranona said:
Sounds like real progress. One thing, though, do not connect the new water inlet valve to an anode. Not necessary as there is no connection between the valve and any other metal.
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Interesting - it was connected before, albeit with defective wire. I assumed it was because the gunmetal strainer was a different metal to the valve. Was I wrong?
 
Swanrad2 said:
Interesting - it was connected before, albeit with defective wire. I assumed it was because the gunmetal strainer was a different metal to the valve. Was I wrong?
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I Agree with Tranona regarding the inlet valve and anode. The skin fitting valve and strainer should all be corrosion restant and not need an anode. It was once fashionable not connect everything to the anodes , but it is now recommended that it is not done
Connection of the seacocks to the anodes was one of the factors blamed, by the MAIB, for the near loss of the F.V, Random Harvest a few years ago.

A problem I met up with on a Westerly was that the basket in the strainer was brass and dezincified .... An anode would not have prevented that.
 
VicS said:
I Agree with Tranona regarding the inlet valve and anode. The skin fitting valve and strainer should all be corrosion restant and not need an anode. It was once fashionable not connect everything to the anodes , but it is now recommended that it is not done
Connection of the seacocks to the anodes was one of the factors blamed, by the MAIB, for the near loss of the F.V, Random Harvest a few years ago.

A problem I met up with on a Westerly was that the basket in the strainer was brass and dezincified .... An anode would not have prevented that.
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Great - saves me a job and its not often that happens!

This does raise another worry though in that if the strainer and valve are corroded - does this say anything about the skin fitting? It looks OK...
 
Swanrad2 said:
Great - saves me a job and its not often that happens!

This does raise another worry though in that if the strainer and valve are corroded - does this say anything about the skin fitting? It looks OK...
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Inspect it for signs of dezincification. I am sure the one I referred to must have had a bronze skin fitting, bronze gate valve and bronze strainer body. Except for the strainer insert all these parts were still original when the owner died not so many years ago.
 
One thing well worth checking is the core plugs; I had one of these on a Volvo fail on me and develop a leak, naturally at the top of the Alderney Race in a flat calm; Araldite saved the day but we had an uncomfortable half hour spinning down the race while it set.

I now always carry Araldite Rapid on all boats...
 
Seajet said:
One thing well worth checking is the core plugs; I had one of these on a Volvo fail on me and develop a leak, naturally at the top of the Alderney Race in a flat calm; Araldite saved the day but we had an uncomfortable half hour spinning down the race while it set.

I now always carry Araldite Rapid on all boats...
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I have some of that modelling epoxy putty (can't remember the name - getting old, begins with an M) for just such a job. Don't know of it will work though....
 
Sounds like the water intake hose, between the seacock and the water pump. This hose has a propensity to delaminate) & when the revs rise, the inner wall of the hose closes in on itself, blocking water flow.

For the priced of a short length of new hose, it's well worth a quick replacement that may very well solve the overheat problem.
 
maxi said:
Sounds like the water intake hose, between the seacock and the water pump. This hose has a propensity to delaminate) & when the revs rise, the inner wall of the hose closes in on itself, blocking water flow.

For the priced of a short length of new hose, it's well worth a quick replacement that may very well solve the overheat problem.
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Worth a go - I always thought the intake was a little undersized - could be the pump is sucking the thing closed. Like you say for a couple of quid, well worth changing.
Thanks
 
Right, so not sure if anyone is even reading this but I'll stick with it(January stopped play).

The diesel system is back together with a CAV filter to replace the old, standard, Volvo fitting. I have found that there was a failure in the old banjo fitting to the engine from the lift pump - it could well of been sucking air, resulting in fuel system failure. Maybe not, I'll never know. The cut off valve to the diesel tank had failed completely and was replaced with bits from ASAP supplies. Diesel system back together.

There was an earth to the sea water strainer which had failed and I was advised to remove completely. Done.

Before filling her up and turning her over I wanted to see the impeller turn even though it was new, I was going to replace it again. Had the cover off and I have oil in the water pump. No sense to the at all - either a failed seal or a lift from the gear box? Either way before I fill her up and start her (or not!) I need to take the water pump off and overhaul it (I might have a spare, not sure-check inventory tomorrow).

Cheers.
 
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