UncleAlbert
Well-Known Member
Ok then this will likely be a long one.
First go and look and the Westerly Owners Association site Forum, under engines, and look for " MDIIC water in oil why ?" there will be found my story.
The brief outcopme is that mine used to spew steam when run at anything over 2k revs for 5 minutes or more. Then one day it utterd a "croak" and the sump had 16 litres of gunge in it. Reason - cylinder liner perforated due to running too hot and heat found a flaw in the cast liner resulting in hole.
During the rebuild, involving two new liners, matching pistons, etc the insides of the cylinder blocks were descaled (Pickled I beleive is the process) and loads of crud was removed both by pointed impliments dremel and scraping with a screwdiver. Pictures are there to see the result.
Much stuff was extracted from the cylinder heads and the exhasut manifold by poking around (valves were not taken out as valve seats looked all ok). Being east coast and motoring through muddy saline 'soup' in the shallows for the previous 38 years this is no great surprise.
Result engine that runs sweet uses no oil and pushes a Centaur along at 3 -4 knots at less than 1500 revs (big three bladed prop helps).
Not difficult to work on, all work was done ashore but with engine still located in boat (did not fancy removing flywheel lump) No special tools needed other than to make up piston ring compressor (aluminium sheet and jubilee clip).
You need to be able to open up the clamp to remove it around the con road as the cylinder is lowered down. Couple of wedges of wood to support cylinder block as it is lowered will assist, as will an extra pair of hands, Its gets quite cosy so find a good friend!!.
Do not remove shims between bottom end and cylinder blocks as they will be unaffected during rebuild. You can check compression clearances with an inexpensive digital depth micrometer (Silverline about 8 quid as I remember)
You will need a torque wrench to reset the cylinder head bolts and tighten after 20 hours running.
Last tip by the seal and gasket set for about 75 quid, rather than buying just the head gaskets (as I remember about £28 each!!), if you go down the above route.
And Finally, its a big meccano kit, just make sure the heads and associated stuff are marked up so that they go back in the right place, the bits have been together for so long they will not take kindly to having a different mate
Pm me if you need any moral support or more info.
First go and look and the Westerly Owners Association site Forum, under engines, and look for " MDIIC water in oil why ?" there will be found my story.
The brief outcopme is that mine used to spew steam when run at anything over 2k revs for 5 minutes or more. Then one day it utterd a "croak" and the sump had 16 litres of gunge in it. Reason - cylinder liner perforated due to running too hot and heat found a flaw in the cast liner resulting in hole.
During the rebuild, involving two new liners, matching pistons, etc the insides of the cylinder blocks were descaled (Pickled I beleive is the process) and loads of crud was removed both by pointed impliments dremel and scraping with a screwdiver. Pictures are there to see the result.
Much stuff was extracted from the cylinder heads and the exhasut manifold by poking around (valves were not taken out as valve seats looked all ok). Being east coast and motoring through muddy saline 'soup' in the shallows for the previous 38 years this is no great surprise.
Result engine that runs sweet uses no oil and pushes a Centaur along at 3 -4 knots at less than 1500 revs (big three bladed prop helps).
Not difficult to work on, all work was done ashore but with engine still located in boat (did not fancy removing flywheel lump) No special tools needed other than to make up piston ring compressor (aluminium sheet and jubilee clip).
You need to be able to open up the clamp to remove it around the con road as the cylinder is lowered down. Couple of wedges of wood to support cylinder block as it is lowered will assist, as will an extra pair of hands, Its gets quite cosy so find a good friend!!.
Do not remove shims between bottom end and cylinder blocks as they will be unaffected during rebuild. You can check compression clearances with an inexpensive digital depth micrometer (Silverline about 8 quid as I remember)
You will need a torque wrench to reset the cylinder head bolts and tighten after 20 hours running.
Last tip by the seal and gasket set for about 75 quid, rather than buying just the head gaskets (as I remember about £28 each!!), if you go down the above route.
And Finally, its a big meccano kit, just make sure the heads and associated stuff are marked up so that they go back in the right place, the bits have been together for so long they will not take kindly to having a different mate
Pm me if you need any moral support or more info.
