With thanks to jfm

bigwow

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Thank you to jfm for help and advise in transforming the saloon ceiling on bigwow from this

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To this, I'd never heard of Dual Lock until jfm suggested it.


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Alpha22

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A dramatic improvement. Now we want the stage by stage pictures...

Is that vinyl over ply? Held up with dual lock? How much dual lock did you use per panel??
 

bigwow

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A dramatic improvement. Now we want the stage by stage pictures...

Is that vinyl over ply? Held up with dual lock? How much dual lock did you use per panel??

I didn't do stage by stage pics, too busy trying to keep the glue off the face of the vinyl I did it in the garden as on a previous job I got "intoxicated" by the glue!
The vinyl is glued to the original ply panels I had to put spacers on the batons underneath to allow room for the recessed LED's. I used 2" of Dual Lock SJ3551 every foot. Even my wife is pleased with the outcome so that's a result.
 

BartW

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+1 to 3M Dual Lock
+1 thanks to Jfm, he's a huge sourve of information and inspiration,
his knowledge is unseen,
I have'nt come across one single item in or around a boat he does't know the last detail about

very nice upgrade on your boat by the way :cool:
 

jfm

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Thanks for the kind words. Wow that is a huge improvement. Very nicely done. Yes, mor epictures wuld be nice

What about the lights BigWow? How are you finding them? The colour and texture of the light is good but is the brightness OK or do you need dimmers? (For forum readers not aware, those are the Cantalupi high CRI lights that were sort of left over from Match 2 build. And this reminds me there is another forumite to whom I "owe" a shipment of lights; I have them here sent to me from France, ready to go, but I can't remember who to send them to as our correspondences is several pages down my PM box - if you're reading this please shout and I'll send them!)
 

matm

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Thanks Bigwow (and JFM) - very helpful as I need some velcro to sort ceiling panels that are coming off with the original velcro. I bought some 15kg branded velcro stuff from the chandlery on Sat and used it for something else but the dual lock does seem more sturdy. Will get ebaying!
 

jfm

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Will get ebaying!
Remember there are 2 Velcro "profiles" with 3M dual Lock; let's call them A and B. A sticks to A VERY strongly, and usually too strongly. A sticks to B strongly, and is generally what you want. B doesn't stick to B at all. So make sure to buy a roll of A and a roll of B, or pads that are made up of A+B
 

MapisM

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Yes very nice. Big Wow on improvement.
Absolutely +1. Stunning result, very bright and clean.

Just a small word of warning - with apologies if I'm making a wrong assumption, i.e. that your boat is wooden built (only guessing from your pics).
If your upper deck is leaking, but only very slightly, your original wooden ceiling would have probably got darker, in the wet spots.
This does not necessarily happen with the new ceiling, unless the leak is big enough to see water drops.
But since fresh/rain water is the typical deck killer of wooden boats, it's actually a good thing to have these visual warnings....
Of course, you can always remove the ceilings periodically, let's say at least yearly, for a visual inspection.
But I just thought to mention it - as a wooden boat owner, I'm somewhat obsessed by leaks, you know... :)
 

RogerRat

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Thanks for the kind words. Wow that is a huge improvement. Very nicely done. Yes, more pictures would be nice

And this reminds me there is another forum member to whom I "owe" a shipment of lights; I have them here sent to me from France, ready to go, but I can't remember who to send them to as our correspondences is several pages down my PM box - if you're reading this please shout and I'll send them!)


JFM

My guess would be, 'Crazy 4557' as he mentioned to me he was changing some lights on your recommendation.:encouragement:

RR
 

BartW

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Remember there are 2 Velcro "profiles" with 3M dual Lock; let's call them A and B. A sticks to A VERY strongly, and usually too strongly. A sticks to B strongly, and is generally what you want. B doesn't stick to B at all. So make sure to buy a roll of A and a roll of B, or pads that are made up of A+B

Hi Jfm,
you mentioned this before, but I could not find the B-type profile, even the product leaflet (from the Belgium distributor) doesn't mention about it ?
We used some A-type only, and yes indeed they are very sticky, much stronger then the glue or any other mounthing method that we use (staples)
do you mind to give the product code or numpber, or a link, ...
Thanks,
 

jfm

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Hi Jfm,
you mentioned this before, but I could not find the B-type profile, even the product leaflet (from the Belgium distributor) doesn't mention about it ?
We used some A-type only, and yes indeed they are very sticky, much stronger then the glue or any other mounthing method that we use (staples)
do you mind to give the product code or numpber, or a link, ...
Thanks,
BartW, see video below. It turns out there are 3 types not 2. Lets forget my names "A" and "B" and use the official 3M names: 170, 250, 400. These are mushroom density figures

What I'm saying is that 400-400 is TOO strong. 170-170 is useless. 170-250 isn't good on boats either and I also think 250-250 is not great on boats. My boat trim parts are mostly built with 250-400 and that's a good level of bond.

On eBay a lot of sellers do not tell you which type they are selling. It looks to me (from the pictures) like they are selling 170 or 250. These are fine for mounting display signs in an office say, but to hold up 6mm plywood ceiling in a boat you need 250-400

 
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jrudge

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The problem with Fairline OEM is that once you have taken it apart unless the panels are flat ( ceiling) and you can hit them VERY hard you can never get the stuff back together again. I have curved panels at the bottom of the bed - I have never got them together again.
 

jfm

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Thanks. Very useful. Any idea what Fairline use as OEM as that's what I'm trying to replace (with better)?
Fairline OEM is invariably 250-400. At least I think they do - I have nagging doubt in my mind that it might be 170-400. I will check at weekend when I'm on the boat. One side of Fairline OEM is definitely 400. I'm 100% sure about that
 
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jfm

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The problem with Fairline OEM is that once you have taken it apart unless the panels are flat ( ceiling) and you can hit them VERY hard you can never get the stuff back together again. I have curved panels at the bottom of the bed - I have never got them together again.

I know what you mean about those upholstered curved panels at bottom of the bed. Had them in my Sq58s. You might be dealing with one of the few cases where Fairline use 400-400 (I wrote "invariably" above deliberately). For the first installer, ie Fairline, there is no need to engage the mushroom studs in the dual lock of course - only the guy who removes the panel and wants to re-fix it has to do that

Imho the best solution is to use new Dual Lock then you have the luxury of being first-installer, OR cover the fabric with a rag and hit it very hard with a mallet
 
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Elessar

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BartW, see video below. It turns out there are 3 types not 2. Lets forget my names "A" and "B" and use the official 3M names: 170, 250, 400. These are mushroom density figures

What I'm saying is that 400-400 is TOO strong. 170-170 is useless. 170-250 isn't good on boats either and I also think 250-250 is not great on boats. My boat trim parts are mostly built with 250-400 and that's a good level of bond.

On eBay a lot of sellers do not tell you which type they are selling. It looks to me (from the pictures) like they are selling 170 or 250. These are fine for mounting display signs in an office say, but to hold up 6mm plywood ceiling in a boat you need 250-400


Flip JFM the stuff you know. I use to think you must be a dream customer for fairline. This tips the balance - you must be a PITA!
 
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