Wiring suggestions

[aquaholic]

Just trying to get my head around coming up with a wiring diagram for a restoration project I am working on and wondered if anyone had an example I could use to start me off.

The idea is to rewire everything between 2 banks (1 x 100ah + 2 x 125ah) the engine and main fuse board, I also want to install a split charge diode, new battery switch and 240v charging system. I know its not ideal but the service bank will be located separate from the single engine battery but space is limited so have had to make a compromise.

The reason for this is that most of the wiring is over 30 years old, and very bodgy so would like to strip out and start again.

Any help appreciated.

 

[lpdsn]

Just trying to get my head around coming up with a wiring diagram for a restoration project I am working on and wondered if anyone had an example I could use to start me off.

The idea is to rewire everything between 2 banks (1 x 100ah + 2 x 125ah) the engine and main fuse board, I also want to install a split charge diode, new battery switch and 240v charging system. I know its not ideal but the service bank will be located separate from the single engine battery but space is limited so have had to make a compromise.

The reason for this is that most of the wiring is over 30 years old, and very bodgy so would like to strip out and start again.

Any help appreciated.

I've been back-documenting the wiring on my boat, but it's spread over about 8 diagrams and I haven't finished all the engine panel wiring yet. They're all .odg files (OpenOffice) so I can't upload them.

I could e-mail some to you if you PM me your e-mail address.

 

[pvb]

Just trying to get my head around coming up with a wiring diagram for a restoration project I am working on and wondered if anyone had an example I could use to start me off.

The idea is to rewire everything between 2 banks (1 x 100ah + 2 x 125ah) the engine and main fuse board, I also want to install a split charge diode, new battery switch and 240v charging system. I know its not ideal but the service bank will be located separate from the single engine battery but space is limited so have had to make a compromise.

Here's a starting point, using 3 simple on/off switches rather than those antiquated 1-2-Both devices. It's foolproof - arrive at both, switch on engine and domestic switches, use boat, switch off engine and domestic, go home. If needed in emergency, the third switch connects the domestic batteries to the starter circuit.

 

[lpdsn]

Here's a starting point, using 3 simple on/off switches rather than those antiquated 1-2-Both devices. It's foolproof - arrive at both, switch on engine and domestic switches, use boat, switch off engine and domestic, go home. If needed in emergency, the third switch connects the domestic batteries to the starter circuit.

That's very similar to mine, except that I have the emergency start switch wired directly up to the domestics, rather than the distribution side of the domestic switch. Also have A to B charger rather than VSR.

As you say, that switch arrangement is far superior to the infamous 1-2-Both switch.

 

[seadog30]

Hi

+1 to PVB

Traditionally Diode splitters are not popular as they loose volts and therefore restrict the battery charge, for that reason voltage sensing relays were used. However modern semi conductor splitters are very low loss and being solid state are also very reliable.

Good luck

 

[aquaholic]

Thanks pvb and all, just what I was looking for and very helpful, by chance would anyone have recommendations for particular switches or diodes?

 

[Puggy]

I bought a copy of Nigel Caulders book and worked through that. It is long and detailed but was very helpful. Worth having in additio.

 

[pvb]

Thanks pvb and all, just what I was looking for and very helpful, by chance would anyone have recommendations for particular switches or diodes?

Those simple switches with a removeable red key are fine, but get decent quality, maybe like this - http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine...le-pole-battery-isolator-switch-140amp-714605

There are lots of low-loss isolators around, although I think if starting from scratch I'd use a VSR instead. Wiring diagram for VSR is similar...

 

[JumbleDuck]

Here's a starting point, using 3 simple on/off switches rather than those antiquated 1-2-Both devices. It's foolproof - arrive at both, switch on engine and domestic switches, use boat, switch off engine and domestic, go home. If needed in emergency, the third switch connects the domestic batteries to the starter circuit.

Mine is very much like that, except that instead of three heavy duty switches I have one, made by BlueSea. Turn it one click and it switches on both domestic and engine circuits; another click links them. Oh, and I have a VSR instead of a diode splitter, arranged only to work when the engine is running as I have a dual-battery solar charger and don't want it to trigger the VSR.

 

[Stemar]

I'm not rich enough to use Bluesea stuff! Jissel has a 0-1-2-both switch with the starter wired to the common, 1 goes directly to the engine battery and 2 to the domestic battery via an isolator, all with cable heavy enough to start the engine. The domestic supply is also connected to 2. I normally run on 1, but have the option of using 2 to start from the domestic if the starter battery is flat. Both puts them in parallel, which may help if both batteries are low, but the only time I used it was with the domestic battery isolated to run the domestic supply from the starter battery when my domestic one had failed.

Output from the alternator is wired to 1 on the 0-1-2-both switch and I have an ordinary relay energised from the field connection on the alternator that puts 1 & 2 in parallel. Wired like this, it puts the batteries in parallel when the alternator has an output. Theoretically, it should be a VSR, but I haven't noticed the difference and I don't think the batteries have either.

One thing to consider while you're into wiring is whether solar power could be added. Jissel lives on a swinging mooring, so shore power is rarely available, but my two 20w panels fed into a dual battery controller mean that both batteries are fully charged whenever I arrive on board, even in midwinter. In the summer, they keep up with our requirements as long as I don't use the cool box.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I'm not rich enough to use Bluesea stuff!

It was only thirty something pounds, as I recall, and since I was redoing everything from start it replaced three other switches ... The only problem was finding one, but I discovered that Aquafax distribute BlueSea stuff and Largs Chandlers were able to get it for me in a few days. Nicely made, it is.

 

[lpdsn]

Mine is very much like that, except that instead of three heavy duty switches I have one, made by BlueSea. Turn it one click and it switches on both domestic and engine circuits; another click links them.

That sounds like an expensive way of draining your engine battery when it's not needed. I only turn on the engine switch when I want to run the engine. The domestics meanwhile are usually only turned off when I'm leaving the boat.

 

[JumbleDuck]

That sounds like an expensive way of draining your engine battery when it's not needed. I only turn on the engine switch when I want to run the engine.

Why would it drain the engine battery? Do you disconnect the battery from your car every time you park it? Anyway, there is a key switch on the Yanmar panel as well, so when I am not running the engine everything except the alternator and starter are disconnected.

 

[prv]

That sounds like an expensive way of draining your engine battery when it's not needed. I only turn on the engine switch when I want to run the engine.

Why would having a battery connected to a turned-off engine cause it to be drained? The solenoid disconnects the heavy wiring, and older control panels will be disconnected by the key switch. Modern electronic panels like mine admittedly will draw a tiny current to monitor the on/off button, but we're talking milliamps at worst and probably less than the self-discharge rate of the battery.

Do you turn off all the mains sockets in your house when there's nothing plugged in, in case the electric leaks out?

Pete

 

[prv]

I like that. I have a very similar one but without the Both position. It makes a good master switch - turn it on when arriving at the boat, turn it off when leaving (when packing the boat up, not just going ashore to the pub). No other messing about with switchery, everything just works.

I have a Smartbank that includes a button on the controller which closes the link relay for 30 seconds, and I specced a relay big enough to carry starter current, so I don't need the "Both", but if you don't have that then this switch is a neat way to do it :encouragement:

Pete

 

[JumbleDuck]

I like that. I have a very similar one but without the Both position. It makes a good master switch - turn it on when arriving at the boat, turn it off when leaving (when packing the boat up, not just going ashore to the pub). No other messing about with switchery, everything just works.

Yes, I love the simplicity. When we get to the boat I (or my small crew) turn it on. When we leave I (or my small crew) turn it off. No need to faff about with 1-2-bothery. I am very keen on making user interfaces to systems as simple as possible, and I think I have just about got there with the electricity.

Incidentally, if you have the BlueSea Dual Circuit switch then the Dual Circuit Plus (with combine) should be a drop in replacement. Same mountings, same connections.

 

[Cloven]

Here's a starting point, using 3 simple on/off switches rather than those antiquated 1-2-Both devices. It's foolproof - arrive at both, switch on engine and domestic switches, use boat, switch off engine and domestic, go home. If needed in emergency, the third switch connects the domestic batteries to the starter circuit.

NIce clear diagram. My sytem has two individual switches - engine & house - but no way of linking them. I have bought a third as per your diagram but I am unsure about the gauge of wiring to connect them. I presume the same as the heavy cable from the batteries but what gauge is this likely to be?

Thanksfor any help.

 

[aquaholic]

Thanks for all your input but what seems to be the issue with a 1-2-both-off type switches? Have never been a problem before, isn't it easier than having to fit 3 separate switches?

 

[aquaholic]

NIce clear diagram. My sytem has two individual switches - engine & house - but no way of linking them. I have bought a third as per your diagram but I am unsure about the gauge of wiring to connect them. I presume the same as the heavy cable from the batteries but what gauge is this likely to be?

Thanksfor any help.

Judging by prv's diagram I am thinking 250 amp

 

[Cloven]

Judging by prv's diagram I am thinking 250 amp

Yes I noted that but what is that in terms of mm2 or an AWG rating? or do I simply ask for 250amp rate wire?