Wiring refurb How to put it all togethet

[thesaintlyone]

I have received the Victron Cyrix CT 120amp Combiner and was looking at how to connect it up there seems to be some different ways shown online including something called start assist?????

Can someone give me a diagram of how to connect it up including wire sizes etc
I have no invert or on board or Shore Power Inlet as I have a Shore Power lead with 3 normal plug sockets

My Battery positive and Negative Cables are 35mm 240amp

Regards

 

[VicS]

I have received the Victron Cyrix CT 120amp Combiner and was looking at how to connect it up there seems to be some different ways shown online including something called start assist?????

Can someone give me a diagram of how to connect it up including wire sizes etc
I have no invert or on board or Shore Power Inlet as I have a Shore Power lead with 3 normal plug sockets

My Battery positive and Negative Cables are 35mm 240amp

Regards

The info you require is in the manual which you can down load from Victron's website or https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-Cyrix-ct-120-EN-NL-DE-FR-ES.pdf

The main positive cables should be the size I beleive PR has already suggested for battery leads. ( Your 35mm² will be more than adequate. 120 amp cable will be sufficient as its fused a t 120 amp )

The negative connection need only be fairly light (1.0mm² would be overkill, but robust) Similarly the connection to the start assist button if you fit it ( or a switch). The operation of the start assist is explained in the manual

You can ignore the charger in the diagram if you dont have one

 

[thesaintlyone]

I finally have the Victron Cyrix 120amp and would like some advice on how to connect it up.

I don't have an inverter as I use a Shore Power cable with three household sockets. Most diagrams seem to show this and something called start assist

My Battery cables both positive and negative to the blue sea dual circuit switch are 35mm 240amp

If someone could do me a detailed diagram for connecting the Combiner including cable sizes and what Inline fuses to buy

Regards

 

[PaulRainbow]

For this installation I would use 10mm cable and fit a midi fuse not exceeding 80a

The negative wire only needs to be, as Vic says, a light wire. 1.0mm, 1.5mm whatever you have handy.

Forget the start assist, you don't need it as the Blue Sea switch has the "combine" setting.

 

[VicS]

For this installation I would use 10mm cable and fit a midi fuse not exceeding 80a

The negative wire only needs to be, as Vic says, a light wire. 1.0mm, 1.5mm whatever you have handy.

Forget the start assist, you don't need it as the Blue Sea switch has the "combine" setting.

Came back to say that!

Also then allows lighter cable and smaller fuse to be used .

One of the snags with the Blue Sea Dual circuit plus combining switch is tha you cannot switch out a dud battery. If necessary it would have to be disconnected.

What about using quick release battery clamps ( good enough , or likely to be the cause of bad connection troubles ? )

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/quick-release-terminal-clamps-pair.html

or these "terminal clamps with isolation"

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/battery-terminal-clamp-with-isolation.html

 

[thesaintlyone]

Thanks I will have a go this week and let you know how I get on. On a related note how do I attach the Axon switch circuit breaker panel to my system cannot seem to find any guides on line.







The White cable is for my navlights (currently not connected) and I have already attached the Bilge pump to the switch panel and negative bus bar

Regards

 

[VicS]

Thanks I will have a go this week and let you know how I get on. On a related note how do I attach the Axon switch circuit breaker panel to my system cannot seem to find any guides on line.



The White cable is for my navlights (currently not connected) and I have already attached the Bilge pump to the switch panel and negative bus bar

Regards

It looks as though you simply take the common positive feed to the central bus bar, but it is odd that there is no separate provision to connect it, and connect each of the circuits to its respective switch. There seems to be no provision on the panel for connecting the negatives. I assume the switches are not illuminated.

You refer to the white wire being for your nav lights.

So far you have not said anything about these. Are you aware of the light combinations required by the IRPCS depending upon whether you are sailing or under power? You appear to have just one switch labelled "Nav lights"
Are you fitting a tricolor for sailing as well as the P&S sidelights, stern light and masthead ( aka steaming) light?
Presumably you have a separate switch panel elsewhere for controlling the lights required and that the switch on the Axon panel is merely a master switch?
Feeding all the lights from the same circuit breaker may not be wise ?????

Edit
Are all the circuit breakers the same rating ?

I dont like your Axon panel one little bit, but I guess you want to make the best use you can of it.

 

[thesaintlyone]

I have seen one where a positive lead was just attached to one of the screws. no they are not illuminated


In regards to the Nav Lights yes I will have a separate tri colour ignore the labels as that is just what came with it and half the switches are not required I did think of buying separate rocker switches and making up my own custom panel for Bilge Pump, Nav Lights, Tri Color, Deck Light probably only need 6 maximum now I'm connecting most things to the bladed fuse block that have there own switches.

 

[VicS]

I have seen one where a positive lead was just attached to one of the screws. no they are not illuminated


In regards to the Nav Lights yes I will have a separate tri colour ignore the labels as that is just what came with it and half the switches are not required I did think of buying separate rocker switches and making up my own custom panel for Bilge Pump, Nav Lights, Tri Color, Deck Light probably only need 6 maximum now I'm connecting most things to the bladed fuse block that have there own switches.

Don't forget that the incoming cable must be heavy enough to support the total load on the panel that might be switched on at once. The end terminal might be a bit too big for one of those screws.

If it is make up a plate that will clamp under several of them with a separate terminal for the incoming supply.

 

[thesaintlyone]

Any recommendations for rocker switches with marine specific tabs I don't need a zombie switch ????

 

[zoidberg]

Ooooo! I want one...!

Two, actually, with t'other in GREEN to give warning of zombs approaching from the other side....

 

[PaulRainbow]

Thanks I will have a go this week and let you know how I get on. On a related note how do I attach the Axon switch circuit breaker panel to my system cannot seem to find any guides on line.

I agree with Vic about the Axon panel. That really is nasty. You connect to the central busbar (as Vic said). I would again use 10mm cable.

The White cable is for my navlights.

Nooooooooooo ! Do not use non-tinned cable for nav lights (or anything else outside.

Some other observations.....

You've barely started and you already have a spaghetti look, cables don't have to simply go the shortest rout, they also need to take a tidy route. Sort it out :beaten:

You don't need battery cable going to the fuse panel. Move that cable to the bottom of the negative busbar and connect a 10mm cable between the top of the busbar and the fuse panel.

The positive feed for the fuse box and switch panel can both be 10mm, connect both to the load terminal of the isolator switch, suitably fused.

There is room to fut the VSR in this area, connect it to the battery terminals of the isolator with 10mm cable and connect the negative to the busbar.

 

[VicS]

Any recommendations for rocker switches with marine specific tabs I don't need a zombie switch ��������

Switch panels usually come with a selection of labels, but probably not the ones you want. I though the Axon panel was supplied with a selection

Google will find some including some Blue Sea ones from Force4 and some from ASAP

People making a really top job get the labels they want made to suit

I used Dymo embossing tape ..... partly hidden in the quarter berth that might suit your needs