stu9000
Well-Known Member
I don't suppose the raymarine autopilot will have dedicated + 1 and +10 wires will it?
Wireless remote for windlass
- Thread starter stu9000
- Start date
Minchsailor
Well-Known Member
+1. Got one a couple of years ago. Absolutely brilliant.
Caladh
Well-Known Member
Was on eBay 2 years ago - will dig out the order but would think current models for sale do the business.
pandos
Well-Known Member
Those were my thoughts also.... but I doubt things would be that simple...
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
Does the raymarine autopilot have a simple wired remote control. My Simrad does and its simple to wire the radio remote receiver into the wired remote connections.
anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-Known Member
Which Simrad is that? Mine needs NMEA info through the remote connection.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
simrad autopilot computer J3000X
anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-Known Member
Spyro did it in his Raymarine http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...Tiller-Pilot&p=6629555&highlight=#post6629555
And I did it to my Simrad http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...s-remote-to-Simrad-tillerpilot&highlight=tp32
As I understand it the Simrad wheelpilots use the same pcbs as the tillerpilots, so the electrical work will be identical although finding somewhere to mount the wireless receiver will be a different challenge.
but unfortunately the forum software has removed the pictures. I'm not going to waste time putting them on here again, but if anyone's interested I'll put the whole 'how to' somewhere else and provide a link.
pandos
Well-Known Member
Excellent....
Mine is a wheel pilot with the controll on the dash and all wired to some sort of computer box where the rudder sensor compass power all converge... But looking at the various posts it may be that it is just a matter of tapping into the buttons. With the remote fitted in behind the dash...
That brings the next question ...can the remotes be paired to two different boards... This would allow one board to be connected to the windlass directly with a second board fitted behind the autopilot...
anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-Known Member
Yes, electrically it's that easy (needs 12v supply too). It's paring down the 'receiver' end to fit the tillerpilot that took the time.
According to the Chinglish instructions for the one I bought (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-4CH-...83.l10137.c10&nordt=true&rt=nc&orig_cvip=true) the implication is that more than one 'receiver' can be controlled.
But if you give me a couple of days I'll have a little play and tell you for sure. One thing though - I think I'd prefer to have separate systems and avoid the consequences of fat finger action.
pandos
Well-Known Member
I'll have a little play and tell you for sure. One thing though - I think I'd prefer to have separate systems and avoid the consequences of fat finger action.[/QUOTE said:
anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-Known Member
I can see your logic, but in my mind I'd envisaged using two wireless units, from different suppliers so as to have unique remotes.
Another thought though - I used three of the four channels for my ap because I have the standby button controlled too, so only one spare channel.
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Caladh
Well-Known Member
You'll never look back !
anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-Known Member
I've just tried it - one key (transmitter) and two 4 channel receivers. 'Pairing' the key is just a matter of applying power and then momentarily pressing a small button on the receiver's pcb, then pressing any button on the key. An led then flashes to confirm and away you go.
The first time I tried it I paired a spare receiver to the key I use with the AP, and that worked as above. I then plugged in the AP to power and operated it from the key. At that point the spare receiver stopped working. That makes no sense, so I disconnected the AP power and the spare receiver still didn't work. Re-paired the key to the spare and tried the AP again. This time there was no problem, both were working in unison. I suspect a momentary disconnection of the spare due to a very much lashed up setup...
The first time I tried it I paired a spare receiver to the key I use with the AP, and that worked as above. I then plugged in the AP to power and operated it from the key. At that point the spare receiver stopped working. That makes no sense, so I disconnected the AP power and the spare receiver still didn't work. Re-paired the key to the spare and tried the AP again. This time there was no problem, both were working in unison. I suspect a momentary disconnection of the spare due to a very much lashed up setup...
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pandos
Well-Known Member
excellent thanks for that ,,, something for a frosty day...
Croftie
Well-Known Member
Hmmm that is interesting a 4 button remote controlling 2 receivers, buttons A and B for bow thruster, C and D for stern thruster.
anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-Known Member
Wouldn't one receiver wired in next to your present controls work?
Croftie
Well-Known Member
Indeed it would but much more free space near the thrusters rather than at the helm control which is fairly crowded and not very accessible. Could make a much neater install if I could use 2 receivers linked to one transmitter.
LittleSister
Well-Known Member
Os you want a remote control for your boat
That's no good. There's no button for the kettle!
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
Controls for the kettle and toaster is on the back.
The transmitter shown are locally made and are available in 1, 2, 4, 6 button with coding by the dip switches. The receivers are available in 1, 2 or 3 channel also programmable codes.
The transmitter shown are locally made and are available in 1, 2, 4, 6 button with coding by the dip switches. The receivers are available in 1, 2 or 3 channel also programmable codes.