winterising my engine

burgundyben

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My boat has a single Perkins Sabre M225Ti, it had been winterised by a perkins agent for the previous owner at the end of October last year, and then we had to make it ready for use in order for me to sea trial the boat, since then it has done about 25 hrs use. (Engine has done 400 hrs total)

I have had her lifted out for the rest of the winter and want to know what I should do to the engine for the next 11 weeks till she goes back in.

Remove the raw water impeller?
Change the oil even though its only done 25 hrs?
Are there zinc anodes I should withdraw?
It does have a good strong mix of antifreeze so that should be ok (not checked with hydrometer yet but not been topped up with water since winterising).
Any thing else?
Anything I should do to the fuel system?

I am quite handy with the spanners so wish to do it myself, its just that I dont know what to do.
 
G

Guest

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Re: boatdiesel.com

for spanner-happy types, this is an excellenet site. You have to register, like here.
 

hlb

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Would'nt bother to much. Just get a greenhouse, tube type, electric heater, maybe two, about £8-50. Stick them in engine room. Dehumidifier on top of sink with pipe down into sink.
This should protect the engines but more importantly, the whole boat from mildew, cold, Ice.

Haydn
 
D

Deleted User YDKXO

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My personal motto concerning all things mechanical is once you've exhausted all other avenues, then look in the manual
Personally I would change the oil, oil filter and primary/secondary fuel filters and zinc anodes(if fitted). This wont cost you much and better safe than sorry.
Then check the water pump impellor, drive belts, air filter (cleanable?) and sea water strainer and only replace if necessary. Its certainly worth checking the freshwater coolant with a hygrometer but, as you say, its probably OK
 
G

Guest

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plus monster tin of aerosol wd40-type stuff on all metal internal incl hinges, taps, and another can for the engine too?
 
G

Guest

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This is all I do for my clients unless any other requests.
Change oil and filter, change fuel filters, test closed circuit cooling system for antifreeze level, remove impeller as it is squashed if left in against the cam in pump housing, drain down raw water from heat exchangers and oil coolers, remove flexi hoses from raw water strainer to drain out raw water, otherwise it may freeze, check anodes, dont think there are any on 225 perkins.
Good dose wd40 around wiring and cable junctions, grease morse cables.
Ive seen some yards remove exhausts and all sorts of pipework and either tape them up or fir wooden plugs to them, IMHO as long as the water is out then its fine, might be a good idea to tape up the exhaust outlet, Berthons are a classic company for the wooden plugs, arent they JFM ?
Thats about it I think from memory, although if its got outdrives then the bills just gone up half as much again.

Paul js.
 

burgundyben

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Thanks everyone, will check with perkins about the anodes, other than that, I dont thin I'll bother to change the filters given that they were done so recently, will drain all the salt water out of the coolers and remove raw water impeller.

The boat has not got an outdrive so there is nothing to do there.
 

jfm

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Re: bunging up the exhausts

Axshully we use SAL to service the Volvos (TAMD63p) becuase they're an official agent and they're still (just) in warranty. SAL do remove the exhausts just downstream of the manifolds, at the first flex coupling, then put polythene over, then refit the hose.
 
G

Guest

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Before doing as little as possible I suggest that you check with your insurers. Frost damage is usually covered provided reasonable precautions have been taken, but reasonable precautions would normally be to drain down raw water circuits properly.
 
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