Winterising advice needed

[redfreddie]

Hi everyone,

I'm now 3 months into my boating life, have completed the RYA Powerboat level 2 (superb course and a definate for anyone new to boating !!), been out to sea a few times and generally had huge amounts of fun and spent at least one day of the weekend on the boat for the whole 3 mths

Now its coming to the time where I need to think about winterising and I have no experience of what I should be doing !

My boat is a Rinker 212 Festiva 1998 and I have the following questions that I hope you will have some great knowledgeable advice on:

1: Antifouling - I went to SIBS and saw the traditional antifoul paint on products, but also the coppercoat one that says it lasts for 10yrs or more and I saw the Ultrasound with transducer. Does anyone know if the coppercoat and ultrasound work, for me on a budget i'd rather spend the money once and have it last yrs if it works ?

2: Leave the boat in the water oe take it out ? I am with premier marina at Sovereign harbour eastbourne and I believe my boat can come out for up to 8 weeks during the winter as part of my berthing costs, however is there any need to ?

3: Do I need to do something with the engine, is it similar to cars where i need antifreeze during the winter ? Obviously my boat is only a 21 foot cuddy so I dont have to worry about water supply as there is none in the boat, just the engine but thats a 1998 mercruiser 4.3 sterndrive, i believe the system uses the sea water to pump through and cool but not sure, so I'm thinking my boat doesnt have anywhere water is stored within the engine, just pumped through when engine used ?

There are probably more things to think about/consider but I don't know what. Unfortunately my job is currently under threat so I am going to be trying to do things as cheap as poss, but antifoul wise quite happy to pay more now if it lasts for 10yrs or so rather than paying every year for normal antifoul paint !

Thanks in advance for any help/advice everyone, it will be much appreciated

 

[gjgm]

C/coat (reasonably, I guess if it is to last ten years) are pretty strict on the preparation of the hull,so its not cheap. I ve estimated it will take me about 8 years of normal a/foul to break even-so I d suggest you need another, non financial reason to use it. I m not saying thats always the case, but thats how I see it. The ultrasonic is a bit of an unknown (unlike normal a/fouls);again, its going to be pretty expensive on a 10 year old 21ft, when you are trying to save money!
Its often a good idea to have the boat out for a period, just to check it over, replace any anodes, service the outdrives (an absolute must), antifoul,and let the boat "dry out" a bit.
The boat shgould be fine in sea water.. just check any fresh water (loo+sinks) are empty.
If out on the hard, most water will drain out through the leg anyway. Absolute best practice is to flush through with antifreeze, or blow air to pump out any water. Probably more necessary in Northern Norway, than UK. On UK south coast I ve never, ever done any of this.

 

[redfreddie]

Thanks GJGM, I saw the invoice for antifouling that the guy had on the boat last winter and it cost him £950, mainly labour i guess. The problem for me is i wouldnt have the first clue how to do it myself and am not the most practical person in the world, I'd be scared to mess it up and don't want to do that !!
I've had a rough quote for the Ultrasound at SIBS and it was £1000 so was very interested in that as an option as should last years but haven't seen any hard proof, only what they've told me, which is obv biased !

 

[wattsn]

Thanks GJGM, I saw the invoice for antifouling that the guy had on the boat last winter and it cost him £950, mainly labour i guess. The problem for me is i wouldnt have the first clue how to do it myself and am not the most practical person in the world, I'd be scared to mess it up and don't want to do that !!
I've had a rough quote for the Ultrasound at SIBS and it was £1000 so was very interested in that as an option as should last years but haven't seen any hard proof, only what they've told me, which is obv biased !

I think he got ripped off, unless it was for full removal of the old a/f as well. On a boat your size a rub down and re-coat should be no more than £300 and more like £200.

 

[Cliveshep]

I do not know your engine, but here is a general principle on raw water cooled engines:

Run until at operating temperature and turn off.

Turn off inlet sea-cock and open strainer top. Use a watering can or similar (with if necessary a bit of tube taped over the spout to extend reach) filled with anti-freeze and water mix, start engine and pour contents down the strainer top so the engine sucks it up and around everything. When it's all gone turn off engine and go home!

 

[carlton]

Sounds as though your boat is raw water cooled, so lifting it out of the water will result in everything in the system draining out. Does the engine have a header tank? In other words, is there a tank on the engine with what looks like a radiator cap? If not, it's raw water cooled.

Antifouling - hoist out, pressure wash, block off on hardstanding, allow to dry, rub down any rough bits (wet sand only - the dust is harmful) if there are any, allow to dry, slap two coats of antifoul on the hull, service the drive, replace the anodes, hoist back into the water. The hull might benefit from being allowed to dry for a month or so too.

No experience of coppercoat, but I know it's a bit pricey and may still need a hoist/scrub to re-activate it every coupla years.

 

[Tremlett 15]

Sounds as though your boat is raw water cooled, so lifting it out of the water will result in everything in the system draining out. Does the engine have a header tank? In other words, is there a tank on the engine with what looks like a radiator cap? If not, it's raw water cooled.

not sure on your engine/drive, but my inboard diesel engine with shaft drive is both external raw water cooled & has a closed system with header tank.

With my boat, I renew the mix in the closed system & put a 50/50 or 30/70 mix thro the raw water system & close the seacocks when the boat is left in the water + heating tubes on stat. Boat inland waterways N Ireland.

 

[tinkicker0]

Hi everyone,

I'm now 3 months into my boating life, have completed the RYA Powerboat level 2 (superb course and a definate for anyone new to boating !!), been out to sea a few times and generally had huge amounts of fun and spent at least one day of the weekend on the boat for the whole 3 mths

Now its coming to the time where I need to think about winterising and I have no experience of what I should be doing !

My boat is a Rinker 212 Festiva 1998 and I have the following questions that I hope you will have some great knowledgeable advice on:

1: Antifouling - I went to SIBS and saw the traditional antifoul paint on products, but also the coppercoat one that says it lasts for 10yrs or more and I saw the Ultrasound with transducer. Does anyone know if the coppercoat and ultrasound work, for me on a budget i'd rather spend the money once and have it last yrs if it works ?

2: Leave the boat in the water oe take it out ? I am with premier marina at Sovereign harbour eastbourne and I believe my boat can come out for up to 8 weeks during the winter as part of my berthing costs, however is there any need to ?

3: Do I need to do something with the engine, is it similar to cars where i need antifreeze during the winter ? Obviously my boat is only a 21 foot cuddy so I dont have to worry about water supply as there is none in the boat, just the engine but thats a 1998 mercruiser 4.3 sterndrive, i believe the system uses the sea water to pump through and cool but not sure, so I'm thinking my boat doesnt have anywhere water is stored within the engine, just pumped through when engine used ?

There are probably more things to think about/consider but I don't know what. Unfortunately my job is currently under threat so I am going to be trying to do things as cheap as poss, but antifoul wise quite happy to pay more now if it lasts for 10yrs or so rather than paying every year for normal antifoul paint !

Thanks in advance for any help/advice everyone, it will be much appreciated

As Carlton mentioned, look for a header tank with rad cap and antifreeze in it.

If it has this, it has a closed cooling system for the engine block and you are lucky. If so, put the muffs on the outdrive when she is out of the water, start her up and flush through with clean tap water. Locate the drain bungs under the exhaust manifolds and drain the water out. Air don't freeze.

If you do not have an header tank, you have raw water cooling. This takes water from the surroundings, passes it around the engine block and then up into the exhaust manifolds and down into the water injection elbows where it goes back to sea. (usually only if the boat was originally bought for freshwater use).

In this case you need to drain the block too via the block drains, usually located just above the oil pan flange at the lower rear of the block.

Don't forget to spray fogging oil down the intake until it kills the engine before you remove the muffs and drain the engine, then remove each plug and give each cylinder a good spray with fogging oil down the plug holes. Then replace the plugs.

This will prevent corrosion occurring in the cylinders and intake over winter.

If the boat is in salt water and you don't know how old the manifolds are, best thing would be to replace them before they corrode enought o destroy your engine.

Rough guide for manifolds is replace:

Salt water use - 3 years.
Freshwater use - 9 years.

 

[redfreddie]

Thanks everyone for the advice, I will check the engine out at the weekend, I think its just raw water cooled tho !!

How much are manifolds ?! I hadnt thought of that, I have a lot to learn

So far I have learnt that its an expensive hobby lol but I guess you already knew that

However, I'm enjoying myself, its just the possible job loss thats going to ruin my fun hence me wanting to get everything done early so if that does happen i've spent all the money i need to to be on the water again next summer !

 

[stelican]

As Carlton mentioned, look for a header tank with rad cap and antifreeze in it.

If it has this, it has a closed cooling system for the engine block and you are lucky. If so, put the muffs on the outdrive when she is out of the water, start her up and flush through with clean tap water. Locate the drain bungs under the exhaust manifolds and drain the water out. Air don't freeze.

If you do not have an header tank, you have raw water cooling. This takes water from the surroundings, passes it around the engine block and then up into the exhaust manifolds and down into the water injection elbows where it goes back to sea. (usually only if the boat was originally bought for freshwater use).

In this case you need to drain the block too via the block drains, usually located just above the oil pan flange at the lower rear of the block.

Don't forget to spray fogging oil down the intake until it kills the engine before you remove the muffs and drain the engine, then remove each plug and give each cylinder a good spray with fogging oil down the plug holes. Then replace the plugs.

This will prevent corrosion occurring in the cylinders and intake over winter.

If the boat is in salt water and you don't know how old the manifolds are, best thing would be to replace them before they corrode enought o destroy your engine.

Rough guide for manifolds is replace:

Salt water use - 3 years.
Freshwater use - 9 years.

Excellent advice Tinkicker and the only one with the correct advice!

 

[tinkicker0]

Thanks everyone for the advice, I will check the engine out at the weekend, I think its just raw water cooled tho !!

How much are manifolds ?! I hadnt thought of that, I have a lot to learn

So far I have learnt that its an expensive hobby lol but I guess you already knew that

However, I'm enjoying myself, its just the possible job loss thats going to ruin my fun hence me wanting to get everything done early so if that does happen i've spent all the money i need to to be on the water again next summer !

A good place for manifolds and although chinese made, not too bad quality wise and about a third of the price of genuine Merc parts.

http://www.trickettmarineproducts.co.uk/mercruiser-manifolds.html

 

[carlton]

Excellent advice Tinkicker and the only one with the correct advice!

I thought it was five years in saltwater for mans/risers? (Mine have just been replaced after six...)

Edit; Another recommendation for Tricketts.

 

[tinkicker0]

I thought it was five years in saltwater for mans/risers? (Mine have just been replaced after six...)

Edit; Another recommendation for Tricketts.

Depends on where you run the boat, how salty the water is or acidic if on a lake.

The Yanks on Boater Ed reckon consider changing at 3 years to be safe, on borrowed time over 5 years.

With my luck I'll run em for 3 yrs, 1 week and my motor will try to run on water. and that's in freshwater.


According to the paperwork, the Prev Owner of my boat had 2 manifold kits and 3 injection elbows fitted in 3 years, genuine Merc ones at an arm and a leg too.

Well heeled chap he was though, let the boatyard launch, recover, clean and maintain the boat. All he did was phone up, tell the yard he intended using the boat that weekend, they'd launch it and fuel it up and he would appear with his beer and fishing tackle.

Nice if you can afford it. Can't help but think the yard was ripping him off tho.

 

[carlton]

According to the paperwork, the Prev Owner of my boat had 2 manifold kits and 3 injection elbows fitted in 3 years, genuine Merc ones at an arm and a leg too.

Well heeled chap...
...Nice if you can afford it. Can't help but think the yard was ripping him off tho.

Reckon you're right on the rip-off comment. On BOC with their experience of lake-boating they reckon you should get a minimum ten years in FW. The Mercruiser mech who used to service my engines/drives reckoned five in salt, ten in fresh, but it would certainly remove the worry if I could afford to change 'em every three years, I s'pose...

 

[redfreddie]

Thanks Tinkicker for the link to Tricketts, will investigate changing manifold asap anyway as i have no idea when it was last done and i know its been in salt water for the last 4 years at least !

 

[Chas25]

Thanks GJGM, I saw the invoice for antifouling that the guy had on the boat last winter and it cost him £950, mainly labour i guess. The problem for me is i wouldnt have the first clue how to do it myself and am not the most practical person in the world, I'd be scared to mess it up and don't want to do that !!
I've had a rough quote for the Ultrasound at SIBS and it was £1000 so was very interested in that as an option as should last years but haven't seen any hard proof, only what they've told me, which is obv biased !

Antifouling, if you pay someone shouldn't be much more than £250-300, however on a 21-22fter ~£100 for the paint and do it yourself, it won't take that long to stick a couple of coats on!!

As someone else mentioned, payback on Coppercoat is likely to be ~8 years, you are also likely to need to have the boat lifted and scrubbed, so would still have those costs, more importantly.. do you think you'll keep the boat that long?? You wouldn't be the first to be itching to get something bigger/faster after a year or so!!

 

[hammyloz]

red where on sovereign are you???? im on the west right by serendipity i have never winterized my engine merc 3L sterndrive..i have just had someone antifoul my boat which is also 21ft and as everyone is quoting it cost me £300 but i could have done it myself but im too lazy but i will next year,i am going to the harbour at the weekend if you want to meet up and i can show you around your engine and also the points to drain it if you really do want to winterize it.
before anyone shouts at me for not winterizing its because i live 10 mins from the harbour and i am out at least 3 times a week

 

[redfreddie]

Hi hammyloz, I'm in the north harbour opposite a lovely sunseeker !! I'm down on Sunday lunchtime'ish this weekend just to check the boat out and would be great to meet up if you're about, all tips greatly received as i know b****r all about engines etc but very willing to learn, also would love to know who did your antifouling as may use the same people myself for the money, I to am to lazy to do it myself this year but also worried i'd do something wrong or overlook something so would rather a pro did it !

 

[hammyloz]

Hi hammyloz, I'm in the north harbour opposite a lovely sunseeker !! I'm down on Sunday lunchtime'ish this weekend just to check the boat out and would be great to meet up if you're about, all tips greatly received as i know b****r all about engines etc but very willing to learn, also would love to know who did your antifouling as may use the same people myself for the money, I to am to lazy to do it myself this year but also worried i'd do something wrong or overlook something so would rather a pro did it !

i have your number now buddy i will ring you on sunday as i will 100% be there

 

[redfreddie]

Cool, thanks hammyloz, your help will be very much appreciated