Winter afloat - keeping damp at bay...

People who believe in ventilation have a universal quality which is total denial that their boats pong. They can’t be shifted from that position.

With that amount of solar then I would use a 240v(Maeco junior) through an invertor and a programmable relay to only come on at 14v or whatever suits your charging arrangement. I’ve done something similar to heat the immersion tank when we are on board.

Make sure the boat is totally sealed including hatch and deck vents and as others have said ensure anything at all with salt on it is washed and dried and there are no leaks.

Then leave beds made up, clothes in cupboards and anything else you like to come back months later to everything still fresh. Your ventilated neighbours won’t notice the difference but you, your family and every vistor will.
 
There is some truth in what RW says!
You don't leave your car open in the winter do you?
You use it often and whack the heater on to keep it dry inside.
Maybe even use the aircon, which is dehumidifying.

If you've ever owned a car where the heater didn't work, you'll be reminded of it by the MAB smell.
 
I live aboard all year round in the UK and never have any damp problems. Ignore advice that proposes dehumidifiers (devotees will never agree that they are not doing any good because they can see them collecting water), they are a waste of time, as has already been said, you will be trying to dehumidify the Universe. The answer is ventilation and warmth. Combine those two and you will not suffer from damp.
 
RJJ said:
Hello again.

We are likely to leave the boat on her river mooring without power supply this winter. I would appreciate any recommendations for keeping mould at bay, please, and indeed other pearls of wisdom!

We have 300W of solar. Would it be worth trying to run a 12v dehumidifer (or two) off the "overflow" from the solar regulator (which is currently unused) - on the basis the batteries will be permanently charged and the overflow should get most of what's available?? Could this be rigged permanently "on" and start automatically whenever power was available?

Alternatively, rig the solar directly to a dehumidifer and send the overflow to the batteries (which have no other demand)?

Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely? Thanks.
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My 35 years of experience in keeping cabins fresh , dry and mould free says: 1 ventilation, 2 dry bilges, 3 no rain leaks.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Plum said:
My 35 years of experience in keeping cabins fresh , dry and mould free says: 1 ventilation, 2 dry bilges, 3 no rain leaks.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
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I use the box over the forehatch trick mentioned above.

Also have a tonneau cover for the cockpit which means that area is dry and a locker/s can be left ajar. Provided you can empty and recharge them now and again, the simple simple moisture catchers are good, used in areas where you know there is little airflow.
I would also try a few fans with the excess 12v.

I bought a small 240v dehumidifier once, hopeless, gave it away. I would expect any 12v article to be similar but worse.

.
 
doug748 said:
I use the box over the forehatch trick mentioned above.
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Thanks - could I please trouble you for a photo of your box arrangement?

Or is it simply....an upturned box strapped down??

I have the Lewmar hatches. In the vent position, with wind from the bow, rain enters in volume.
 
It is easy to make a 'winter' companionway hatch from a spare bit of 1/2" wbp ply, cut as many 1/2" slots sloping downward at 45 degrees at 2" vertical centres as your patience allows with a jig saw, (the wee stainless steel louvres d not shift enough air). That will allow the air you admit forward to escape aft. Easy to add louvres from some strips of wood if you feel the need to stiffen it, this is probably only necessary when ashore and the boat stern to the rain.
One winter I did try to dehumidify Scotland when in the yard with shorepower, collected gallons, but like others after 50 odd years and an assortment of boats I am convinced that plenty of ventilation is the answer.
 
RupertW said:
With that amount of solar then I would use a 240v(Maeco junior) through an invertor and a programmable relay to only come on at 14v or whatever suits your charging arrangement. I’ve done something similar to heat the immersion tank when we are on board.
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The Meaco DDL8 models are desiccant humidifiers and the manufacturer says you shouldn't disconnect the power whilst they're in use. They should be allowed to go through their own shut down process. Manual: PDF

Compressor dehumidifiers remove less water per hour but, at most temperatures, remove more water per watt of electricity consumed. They also don't suffer from this shortcoming. I like the dimensions of my Seago dehumidifier, the "Smart Dry 2" model, and it will awake with the same settings after a power outage.
 
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KompetentKrew said:
The Meaco DDL8 models are desiccant humidifiers and the manufacturer as you shouldn't disconnect the power whilst they're in use. They should be allowed to go through their own shut down process. Manual: PDF

Compressor dehumidifiers remove less water per hour but, at most temperatures, remove more water per watt of electricity consumed. They also don't suffer from this shortcoming. I like the dimensions of my Seago dehumidifier, the "Smart Dry 2" model, and it will awake with the same settings after a power outage.
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But the great thing about that model is that it remembers its settings from one power on to the next and spends most of its time shut down in a sealed boat so after the first couple of days it will almost always be in shutdown mode when the power goes off.
 
RupertW said:
But the great thing about that model is that it remembers its settings from one power on to the next and spends most of its time shut down in a sealed boat so after the first couple of days it will almost always be in shutdown mode when the power goes off.
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I'm pretty sure they all do that. I think the Meaco DDL8 wins awards for the amount of water it extracts per hour at low temperatures.
 
RupertW said:
People who believe in ventilation have a universal quality which is total denial that their boats pong. They can’t be shifted from that position.

With that amount of solar then I would use a 240v(Maeco junior) through an invertor and a programmable relay to only come on at 14v or whatever suits your charging arrangement. I’ve done something similar to heat the immersion tank when we are on board.

Make sure the boat is totally sealed including hatch and deck vents and as others have said ensure anything at all with salt on it is washed and dried and there are no leaks.

Then leave beds made up, clothes in cupboards and anything else you like to come back months later to everything still fresh. Your ventilated neighbours won’t notice the difference but you, your family and every vistor will.
Click to expand...

300w of solar on a cloudy winters day in the UK isn't going to run a dehumidifier even the little Maeco, we have one and 300w of solar.

Stick to ventilation if you are on a river mooring and use the solar to keep the batteries topped up instead.

I think Plum in post 25 has the right answer, he normally does.
 
To assist ventilation I have a solar powered greenhouse fan permanently set in the washboards and I leave the dome type ventilators open. This gives a low through draught and seems to keep the boat sweet.
Additionally clean and dry surfaces where possible, remove all fabrics (bedding, cushions, etc.), remove all food items, dry the bilges and purge the loo piping with vinegar.
 
yimkin said:
To assist ventilation I have a solar powered greenhouse fan permanently set in the washboards and I leave the dome type ventilators open..... dry the bilges.....
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Getting the water out will be a huge step, then the problem is dusty bilges, oh well gives you something to polish during the winter.

Got a link to the green house fan? might be a interesting idea for the heads.

Pete
 

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A dehumidifier is fine in its place, but not a lot of use on a mooring with no mains, which is the OP's situation.

A boat in that situation doesn't have to pong; any pongs have causes that need to be chased down. A clean bilge, even with a bit of water in it doesn't pong, but it doesn't take much of a diesel leak to ensure that folk around you respect social distancing after a few days aboard...
 
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