Window Interscrews

Thank you all for your suggestions.
Have managed to remove one inter screw for inspection. The screw is stainless but the domed head socket appears to be chromed brass (or possibly bronze judging by the colour under the chrome). If I have to resort t drilling then the sockets will easier than the screws. However if I remove enough of the domed head so that it can pass through the 2mm inner aluminium frame and 7mm grp it will still not be possible to punch it through outwards. The countersink hole in the outer frame is only large enough for the screw. The remaining part of the socket will not pass through the frame. Not until all the domed heads are removed will it be possible to remove window frame complete with screws and sockets still attached. Cutting a slot in the domed head to take a screwdriver maybe the best option but the access to the great majority of interscrews is difficult due the way the the boat was fitted out 45 years ago. I
 
A long shot which might work for at least some of the fasteners. Left handed drills are available, good quality ones are a bit pricey but they're also on Ebay. Drilling with one might unscrew the interscrew nut. The torque's in the right direction and the frictional heat will help.
Need a reversible drill of course, most are.
 
earlybird said:
A long shot which might work for at least some of the fasteners. Left handed drills are available, good quality ones are a bit pricey but they're also on Ebay. Drilling with one might unscrew the interscrew nut. The torque's in the right direction and the frictional heat will help.
Need a reversible drill of course, most are.
Click to expand...

Are you referring to stud removers ? Left handed drills designed to be used to undo broken studs.
 
Refueler said:
Wouldn't it be simpler to just drill normally - then use a stud remover ? They are designed for the torque stress needed to remove stubborn studs ...
Click to expand...
Reason I wasn't suggesting that was the thought that drilling into the end of the nut, as far as the end of the screw, would allow only a rather shallow hole, insufficient to give a grip for an "easy-out".
My feeling was that the LH drill stands a better chance of applying some useful torque to the nut.
 
earlybird said:
Reason I wasn't suggesting that was the thought that drilling into the end of the nut, as far as the end of the screw, would allow only a rather shallow hole, insufficient to give a grip for an "easy-out".
My feeling was that the LH drill stands a better chance of applying some useful torque to the nut.
Click to expand...

Maybe ......

Lets be honest - if it gets to level of needing serious torque ... then its really bad !
 
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