Windlass control options

Cardinal

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I have a Lofrans Cayman windlass for which there is a wired handheld remote. This is a replacement purchased in the Summer after the old one packed up. The first replacement lasted only for one use before packing up.
I should like to fit a wireless remote in order to keep connections away from an inevitably wet end of the boat.
The wireless handheld remote still needs to be waterproof.
What do those who have adopted this solution recommend?
 
I have a Lofrans Cayman windlass for which there is a wired handheld remote. This is a replacement purchased in the Summer after the old one packed up. The first replacement lasted only for one use before packing up.
I should like to fit a wireless remote in order to keep connections away from an inevitably wet end of the boat.
The wireless handheld remote still needs to be waterproof.
What do those who have adopted this solution recommend?

No need to be waterproof, don't drop it in the drink :)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wireless...3:g:BxUAAOSwWB5bwYxS:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true
 
Thanks for your replies. The Lofrans one does look fine John, but rather an expensive luxury when our chain is well marked.
Paul, the rain can be quite persistent in the Hebrides, so your solution Bob seems just the job. Are you able to post a link to the one which you have found reliable please?
 
Thanks Bob,
That looks fine and should do well.
The lanyard seems a good idea although it probably introduces a way for water to get into the bag. I may use a telephone bag which has its own lanyard so the zapper can be sealed in during use.
 
Thanks Bob,
That looks fine and should do well.
The lanyard seems a good idea although it probably introduces a way for water to get into the bag. I may use a telephone bag which has its own lanyard so the zapper can be sealed in during use.

That's the same as the one in post #2, apart from the key fob, but the one in post #2 has two remotes.
 
Be careful with the car winch ones though. Firstly there is a delay when stopping. i.e the windlass continues to work a second after releasing the button. Secondly, I actually turn my windlass off at the breaker when not using as from time to time, I've had something other than the remotes activate the soleniod. I have no idea what as they operate on 400mhz frequency, but then I am by a military base.
 
The cheap remotes work fine for almost everyone, but I found poor reliability. Perhaps I was unlucky, or perhaps my larger windlass was too much for the control unit.

When working I also found some niggling issues. “Parking” the anchor was difficult as the minimum amount of chain that retrieved even with a short button press was too long for fine adjustment. I also found the range was marginal (this is on an aluminium boat, which does not help). Given the ridiculously low cost they are still worth considering, but for the new boat I have fitted one of the industrial crane controls. This is much better built and has solved all the above problems (and it takes AA batteries).

The cost is more, but they still great value (I paid around €70 on Amazon)

4eNnCf4.jpg
 
Lofrans Tigres 15 years of living on the hook most of the year.

Foot switches are the most convenient as they leave both hands free . I have used Lofrans ones which last a year. I viewed them as a service item. Tried the Quick ones but discovered they fail on and would have me rushing down below to access the circuit breaker.

Tried a cheap wireless remote which worked for a year then died

Currently using a Quik plug in remote hand held. Has worked for three years.

If it failed I might go back to foot switches. Perhaps with a cheap remote in parallel
 
I’ve been using a cheap eBay remote for the last seven or eight years, anchoring 100+ days a year. The remote lives in a phone bag to waterproof it, spare remote is in the chart table. As others have said, the amount of chain brought in by the remote is larger than the wired control but once you’ve got used to that it doesn’t cause any problems. The remotes often come with solenoid boxes: I didn’t use that, just tapped into the Lofrans solenoid box alongside the existing wired controls. I now test the wired remote once or twice a season, otherwise it’s effectively redundant.
 
How easy are these things to wire in?????;)

Winch remotes are very easy to wire in; you basically put it in parallel with the existing switches which trigger the windlass solenoid.

I use one on my bowthruster, and I'm aware of the switch-off delay which people have mentioned. Although that's not a problem for a thruster, I could imagine it might not be great for inching the last bit of chain and stowing the anchor.
 
Great to have the benefit of all your experiences. Perhaps I shall fit a cheap wireless remote and keep the wired remote as a backup.
Any more input will be welcome. Perhaps one of you skilled electricians could suggest a way of cutting the delay in the cheap wireless remotes. Too much capacitance in the circuit?
 
I agree there is a short delay, less than a second I'd judge, when releasing the button. Once you are used to it then it is not a problem. Anyway i always like some slack between the windlass and anchor roller so there is no tension on the windlass gears.
Wiring it is easy as you just put it in parallel with the wired controls. I still have a wired option but the forehatch needs to be open for me to use it and then it is not long enough to look down at the chain.
 
In any non latching wireless remote there will be a delay as the electronics will have a time out to confirm the the signaL has off.

Too short a delay and the is a danger to a rapid on off (chatter) too long and the is too much over run.

I have several wireless remote controls both at home and on my boat and all the non latching wireless remotes have a similar lost signal timeout

I have a wireless remote control and deck foot buttons but tend to use the desk buttons to keep both hands free as said before.

I also have a wired switch in my wheel house next to a chain counter so I can get the anchor in is real bad weather if need be

This is a combined remote I built from standard gate/garage door remote controls.

35696446580_cd0a732b84_b.jpg


I don't use it now due to the turn off delays.
 
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I have a Sidepower wireless remote that does both the windlass and the bow thruster. Very responsive, no delay - but was expensive. The wired control is still in its wrapper! Its plug is in the locker which I think (actually know through experience) is potentially dangerous if the cable gets caught in the windlass. On last boat had the cable control hard wired in the forecabin and curly cable long enough to lead out of the forehatch. Much safer.
 
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