Will my dinghy explode ?

Refueler said:
When my Narwhal failed ... I asked about similar sealant and they gave me examples of its failures.

Evidence was quoted that if you have failing seams / joints - using the sealant can soften and cause the seams / joints to worsen. Its only saving grace is to use on a dinghy that has become 'porous'. But then it only extends life short period.
Click to expand...

Another comment they made ..... Once that repair fluid is used - it makes it near impossible for service to repair....
 
I was a a sailing club when a dinghy trolley wheel exploded.

Pumped up in the morning in the shade at 20C, exploded at lunchtime in the sun at 50C air temperature...

We were in Saudi..
 
I often repair inflatables that have burst seams in the hot weather. With my Seago PVC tender I generally inflate to 1-1.5 psi below max, never had a problem. For what they cost I don't know why they all aren't fitted with pressure safety valves.
 
Helidan said:
I often repair inflatables that have burst seams in the hot weather. With my Seago PVC tender I generally inflate to 1-1.5 psi below max, never had a problem. For what they cost I don't know why they all aren't fitted with pressure safety valves.
Click to expand...
My excel has a pressure relief valve
 
William_H said:
Our club 6m RIB has been damaged internally when partition between sectors let go. Caused by inflation in the morning then left out in hot sun all day. Colored blue did not help as it absorbs heat more than white. So now rule RIB must always be left somewhat deflated. So yes OP concern is correct. But then what you call a heat wave is regular temps here for 4 months every summer and then often much more. Enjoy the heat while you can. ol'will
Click to expand...
I try to pump up chambers in the correct order to avoid that sort of issue. I imagine a few people might not realise that it is better to use a specific order for inflation. I imagine most types use the same directional method of attaching internal panels.
 
Refueler said:
I had a Narwhal .... I was testing it in back garden ... pumped up and left to see if any leaks ...

It was there all day and when I went to check it ... seams had let go in the sun ...

Took it to local repair shop ... they took one look and shook heads .... Sorry mate - its not possible.

Since then - I am a great believer in letting out a few psi just in case when left for 'long period' .... no hardship to give a few strokes to pump up for use. TBH - if its not a RIB ... then deflating is best course.
Click to expand...

Ahhh! the lesser spotted Chinese Narwhal must be pumped up with a Chinese copy of a Whale pump ? If you don't do that, then it will spike itself!

In repair terms with dingies or the much more common rubber duckey, seam repairs are possible but if you don't DIY it could result in the failure of the local repair shop to sell you a new one. All you need is the correct glue and a sailmakers sewing machine.
Now if you want to know what I like to use, the answer is Avon made in Blighty, preferably number 8, just slap that cream all over and go for a swim before getting sunburnt.

PS: I've given up on rubber ducks or dingies of any type now it's hot, so I'm going Commando from A to B, in other words I paddle a blow up job just like they did in WW2, but I'm not keen on camo colours, so I'm going to buy an orange canoe, or even a Portland Tudgey if I win big on the Lotto or Bonds.
 
My dinghy has to have the back tubes either side inflated first and the the bow tube. It a tinker fold up rib type so this order locks the sections together correctly. It felt soft when last down and that was a very sunny day, so hopefully OK at present.
 
Refueler said:
Another comment they made ..... Once that repair fluid is used - it makes it near impossible for service to repair....
Click to expand...
Not so, I've repaired dinghies that have had it applied; it does mean there is more cleaning to get a surface suitable for gluing, but that only affects those doing it for a living.
 
i use a bike on the beach for bait digging and this morning my tyre exploded going over the dunes . This got me thinking also about my dinghy
 
My inflatable exploded with a bang one afternoon just after I'd clambered onto the pontoon at my club near Plymouth. There was an audience of over a dozen, and I managed to salvage the o/b and the paddles as I'd secured both ends of the 'flubber'.

The 'flubber' went along one seam, violently. I was able to salvage all the glued-on rowlocks and ring-things in case of future need.
 
earlybird said:
I'd think that intense sunlight, which is not uncommon, can heat the air in a dinghy more significantly than the exceptionally high ambient temperatures forecast for the UK in the next couple of days. As AP points out, pressure is proportional to absolute temperature which will be raised by only a small percentage.
Click to expand...
According to RYA's "Pass Your Yachtmaster", solar radiation does not heat air ?
 
Helidan said:
I often repair inflatables that have burst seams in the hot weather. With my Seago PVC tender I generally inflate to 1-1.5 psi below max, never had a problem. For what they cost I don't know why they all aren't fitted with pressure safety valves.
Click to expand...
Do you know if fitting these PRVs are difficult?
Seems strange they aren't fitted as standard, I'm guessing costs.. I'm thinking about buying some and fitting each tube compartment with them but am currently to chicken to cut into the new tubes :giggle:
 
Cornishwesterly said:
Do you know if fitting these PRVs are difficult?
Seems strange they aren't fitted as standard, I'm guessing costs.. I'm thinking about buying some and fitting each tube compartment with them but am currently to chicken to cut into the new tubes :giggle:
Click to expand...
Not especially difficult, you would need to access inside the tubes in order to get the securing nut in. There's a few ways you could approach a job like this. Of course you would need to pay attention to the relief valve opening pressure and make sure it's suitable for your particular tubes.
 
Refueler said:
It was there all day and when I went to check it ... seams had let go in the sun ...

Took it to local repair shop ... they took one look and shook heads .... Sorry mate - its not possible.

Since then - I am a great believer in letting out a few psi just in case when left for 'long period' .... no hardship to give a few strokes to pump up for use. TBH - if its not a RIB ... then deflating is best course.
Click to expand...

I had exactly the same problem a couple of weeks ago. I’ve been advised to use some two part to try and repair it.

The advice that you received doesn’t fill me with confidence!!!
 
Years ago i was doing a boat jumble, a mate down the club asked if i could take an old flubber for him.
It was an old avon redstart black in colour & it was named "patches", you can guess. I pumped it up in the morning & by the time the jumble opened it was already going rather flaccid.
Then the sun came out, it heated up & went solid as a rock, shortly afterwards we sold it! For not a lot i hasten to add.
Apologies if you bought it!
 
Helidan said:
Not especially difficult, you would need to access inside the tubes in order to get the securing nut in. There's a few ways you could approach a job like this. Of course you would need to pay attention to the relief valve opening pressure and make sure it's suitable for your particular tubes.
Click to expand...
You don't need access to inside the tubes. Just the same as replacing the valves, put the edges of the hole in the cloth together and pull it straight. A disc, nut, whatever that has a greater diameter than the hole will then slip through.

With the tube deflated there is enough friction against the back side to tighten the nut.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Z
Engine Problems.....
2
Replies
22
Views
695
billcole
B
N
Alternator D+ / 61 Terminal
Replies
4
Views
156
VicS
VicS
F
Seychelles & New purchase questions
Replies
7
Views
324
faraa77
F

Share this page

Top