Why do intercoolers on my MAN engines need cleaning every 2 years?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted User YDKXO
  • Start date Start date
now you can sleep well regarding your MAN concerns ;)
At least until the crankshaft vibration damper fails, Bart:D Sorry!

Btw no news from you for about a month. How are your MAN rebuilds coming along?
 
Btw no news from you for about a month. How are your MAN rebuilds coming along?

The injection pump was send to a bosch service center for overhaul, first they were waiting for a part for several weeks, now they are struggling to get it working correctly, we can't do more but wait for a next info update...and politely push for progress

The engine is copletely assembled, seen with my own eyes, waiting for that pump before testing
 
The injection pump was send to a bosch service center for overhaul, first they were waiting for a part for several weeks,

Typical, bloody Germans eh?;)
 
waw ! surprising pics Mike,
makes me conclude that it DOES make sense to inspect heat exchangers internally on a regular base,
have to inspect my gearbox oil cooler now !

regarding the leaking cooling liquid,
I believe that the concensus was that this is due to overfilling, typical on the MAN cooling cirquit
On BA, the leaking fluid disappears in the bilges of the engine room, (its just fresh water without any addition)
and I can also add some water untill completely full, after almost every water level inspection, (after using and running the boat for a while)
but If I don't add, the level doesn't go below a certain level, that still is OK,
I would advice you to do the same, don't refill, and inspect if the level doesn't lower below a certain acceptable level, then you'r ok,
I'll asc my MAN man when I meet him next week what he thinks about that.
Do you have it on both engines ?
Hi
I was just reading through the thread and noticed you say that your coolant is just fresh water without any addition . I read this as you are using freshwater without the inhibitors found in suppliers coolant. This is not recommended as you are likely to promote corrosion within the engine block which long term can have disasterous effects on the likes of bore linears (if fitted) etc.
 
Hi
I was just reading through the thread and noticed you say that your coolant is just fresh water without any addition . I read this as you are using freshwater without the inhibitors found in suppliers coolant. This is not recommended as you are likely to promote corrosion within the engine block which long term can have disasterous effects on the likes of bore linears (if fitted) etc.

I learned to add just water without any addition from the previous captain of the boat, and to be honest I don't care much about this as any other probelem will bypass a long term corrosion problem. Sorry for pragmatic on this, thats how i am
 
The previous captain has misinformed you,Your choice!
I'm with stelican. The engine manufacturers' products might have not just corrosion inhibitors but a cocktail of additions designed to help preserve wet liner sealing rings and other sealing stuff, depending on the engine of course.
 
I'm with stelican.
+1, in principle.
But I'm not sure if BartW meant that he topped up with fresh water whenever necessary, or if the whole circuit in his engines is filled with just water.
If the first, I would think that it takes a helluva lot topping up before the change in the of the cooling liquid dilution becomes relevant.
But if the latter, I'd definitely replace water with the proper stuff, taking also the opportunity for a flush of the circuit. Cheap insurance, in the great scheme...
 
Hi
I was just reading through the thread and noticed you say that your coolant is just fresh water without any addition . I read this as you are using freshwater without the inhibitors found in suppliers coolant. This is not recommended as you are likely to promote corrosion within the engine block which long term can have disasterous effects on the likes of bore linears (if fitted) etc.

OK, thank you for bringing this up !

at the moment they are rebuilding one engine, the new block is completely empty of any liquids at this moment,
I'll discuss with the MAN guy what cooling liquid he will use,

I'll bring it up again later in my engine rebuild thread tbc.
one has to learn here continiously thanks again :)
 
.................The yard reported that the charge air coolers were relatively clean and didn't need any work, the engine heat exchangers were OK but would have needed cleaning in another season but by far the worst items were the gearbox oil heat exchangers which definitely needed cleaning. It looks as if whoever last cleaned the engine heat exchangers omitted to clean the gearbox oil heat exchangers and its quite possible they've never been opened up since the boat was new. A heads up for anyone with gearbox oil heat exchangers

My engines had their 4yr service today which included opening up and inspecting/cleaning the charge air coolers, engine heat exchangers and gearbox heat exchangers for the first time since new. This is what we found, The MAN man (!) said levels of fouling are often quite dependant on boating area, not sure how true that is but might explain why many on here have different advice/results

The engine heat exchangers were not too bad for 4 years.

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Charge air coolers were fine


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Gearbox heat exchangers were surprisingly clean

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My engines had their 4yr service today which included opening up and inspecting/cleaning the charge air coolers, engine heat exchangers and gearbox heat exchangers for the first time since new. This is what we found, The MAN man (!) said levels of fouling are often quite dependant on boating area, not sure how true that is but might explain why many on here have different advice/results

Wow those are clean, particularly the gearbox exchanger compared to mine. I suspect also that the level of fouling depends on how often you use your boat too. I think you use your boat more than most which probably means that the critters get less chance to set up home
 
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