Which Oil?

[waverider]

Just a thought, as there a lot of people here that service their own engines. When you pick up your newly purchased can of oil, what do all those numbers and letters mean such as e.g API....10/40 etc?

What brand or blend do you prefere....and why?

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[ParaHandy]

Shell something or other and it gets two dollops each year ... no idea what hieroglyphics on side of (only 4 ltr, the swindling swines) bottle means.

however, engine does make satisfying gurgling sounds after each fresh fill-up ...

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Althorne]

Aye would have to agree with Shell although I use a lighter oil in winter to summer as atmospheric and water temperatures affect starting and running temperatures.
Also change the water thermostat from summer to winter to optomise temps'. Have never been convinced that 'marine' oils make any difference since senior engineer and engine designer at Perkins told me its all "rollocks" and a sales gimmick when I was a lad (that's when God was a boy). Which has always been good enough for me and my engine is 47 years old and still as good as gold. (bet that buggered it).

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://colvicownersclub.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk>http://colvicownersclub.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk</A>

 

[Birdseye]

The 10/40 bit is the viscosity. The 10 is the cold viscosity and the 50 is when warm, so what these numbers are saying is that it behaves like a thin oil when cold for starting purposes and like a thicker one when warm for lubricating. It actually doesnt get thicker as it warms up - it simply gets less thin than a straight non multigrade oil of the same starting viscosity.

The CF / SF bit is the API rating. C is for compression ignition engines, S for spark. These letters started around 1964 and have progressed from SC to SF etc reflecting improvements in detergents, lubricity etc.

Be careful about putting the latest oil into an old style or simply old diesel engine. There could be a risk that the better detergents loosen up some of the crud within which then blocks oil ways and in any case there is an argument that says old engines need better grade basic oil with lower detergents rather than lighter grade base oil with lots of additives as in modern formulations. So the best thing to do is to stick to the manufacturers recommendations, and dont assume you are being kind to your engine by buying a more expensive super modern formulation instead. Save your money for more frequent oil and filter changes.

Suppliers? You get what you pay for - usually.

<hr width=100% size=1>this post is a personal opinion, and you should not base your actions on it.

 

[Althorne]

Well that took all the fun out of guessing didn't it!

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://colvicownersclub.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk>http://colvicownersclub.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk</A>

 

[Fill]

See www.api.org/eolcs

<hr width=100% size=1>It was all so different before it changed

 

[waverider]

>Well that took all the fun out of guessing didn't it!

Well it is good to see that most people are pretty well clued up! and the post by birdseye suggests that he knows what the American Petroleum Institute is all about and that they carry out tests and grade lubricants!

What fascinated me about oil was how blenders converted straight to multigrade and the types of additives that were used to clean and maintain viscosity


<hr width=100% size=1>