Which *non-epoxy* wood filler? Wood hull, topsides. Advice sought.

[Gary Fox]

We are repairing a wooden hull with various gouges and scratches, going from bare wood to a gloss finish. It has quite a few gouges and scratches up to about 9mm deep. No rot though.
We are planning to fill these scars and scratches with something a bit flexible, which will accept a bit of squishing when the planks swell etc. But hopefully which can be sanded and painted over.
It can't contain epoxy as unfortunately, one of us has become sensitised from touching it.
Two pack poly has been suggested but I am struggling to pin down the right product. It needs to be from a recognised maker eg Jotun, Int'l for example, and be available in 5l tins.
All the google searches keep pointing me at products containing epoxy.
Any recommendations gratefully received.

 

[Hacker]

What about using a seam caulking compound? The old red lead putty used for paying seams is flexible and could be painted

 

[Gary Fox]

What about using a seam caulking compound? The old red lead putty used for paying seams is flexible and could be painted

Thanks, we are not really caulking seams though. Used on shallow scars, it will just fall off..we need a more high-tech sticky stuff.
There is lots of non epoxy 2-pack filler, but finding 2-pack filler which will remain slightly flexible to allow wood movement is where I am getting stuck.
There is no Jotun product, all are epoxy unfortunately. There is epoxy-free car body filler which is guaranteed to remain flexible (for car customisation with bendy bumpers etc) and this is not meant for seawater, BUT: its existence demonstrates that flexible non-epoxy filler does actually exist..I just need to find a marine version!

 

[Tanqueray]

You need to start by deciding upon your paint system.
Once you have that, you will know which primer you will be using, the primer should go both under and then over the filler (sandwiching it) - so once you have established your primer, you can then source a compatible filler. You can mix paint systems (with a bit of research) - but choosing one manufacturer for the full system will be easier.
Just to clarify, you don't need a full primer layer over the whole hull above the filler - you just need to patch over the filler so that you have primer based back on primer thereby encapsulating the filler. i.e. Full primer on bare, patch fill, patch prime over the filler, then remaining coats - primer determines filler.

 

[Gary Fox]

Thanks Nom de Plume.
The primer is Vinyguard and the gloss top coats are Pilot 2. (Both Jotun products which I have used before with good results).
We will definitely prime before and after applying filler.
I am coming to the view that I will use 2-pack polyester filler for the shallow scrapes, where the timber swelling and shrinking won't affect it. (This is basically a marine version of car body filler)
And any damage which is thinner and penetrates into the timber, I will squirt in some CT1 or Sika 291 type stuff, which will accept a little movement. These are wonderful sealants, but meant for putting into gaps, joints and narrow crevices, rather than applying to a surface.

 

[PhillM]

What about using a seam caulking compound? The old red lead putty used for paying seams is flexible and could be painted

Red lead putty is good. I think I still have a tin somewhere in the garage, if you need some.

 

[tillergirl]

I am inclined to suggest that 9mm gouges need small graving pieces. Less deep scratches I always used Interfill (above the water line). Would that sensitise you?

Red lead putty would take a while to get a fair surface if that is important. Above the waterline you can always use white lead putty - same stuff but the red doesn't leach through the primer and U/C.

 

[Gary Fox]

Red lead putty is good. I think I still have a tin somewhere in the garage, if you need some.

Ok thanks. I am inclined towards modern adhesive/sealants because I hold the belief that they add a bit more strength.

 

[Gary Fox]

I am inclined to suggest that 9mm gouges need small graving pieces. Less deep scratches I always used Interfill (above the water line). Would that sensitise you?

Red lead putty would take a while to get a fair surface if that is important. Above the waterline you can always use white lead putty - same stuff but the red doesn't leach through the primer and U/C.

I agree about the graving pieces. My mate who's helping can't be around epoxy, he is a warning to everyone, don't get it on your skin!
I'm going for modern products rather than red lead, it does its job but I personally think that modern Sika type sealants are mechanically stronger.

 

[Gary Fox]

Well my mind seems to be made up, it's very helpful bouncing my thoughts off people to steer me in the right direction.

 

[Caraway]

Having read through the thread, and being a bit cruel, your mate is compromising the result. Can't you do the repairs on your own, or find someone else to help do these parts?

 

[Tanqueray]

Thanks Nom de Plume.
The primer is Vinyguard and the gloss top coats are Pilot 2. (Both Jotun products which I have used before with good results).
We will definitely prime before and after applying filler.
I am coming to the view that I will use 2-pack polyester filler for the shallow scrapes, where the timber swelling and shrinking won't affect it. (This is basically a marine version of car body filler)
And any damage which is thinner and penetrates into the timber, I will squirt in some CT1 or Sika 291 type stuff, which will accept a little movement. These are wonderful sealants, but meant for putting into gaps, joints and narrow crevices, rather than applying to a surface.

Have you spoken to SML?
SML Marine Paints - Jotun Vinyguard
Caraway's advice might be worth a thought.

 

[Gary Fox]

Have you spoken to SML?
SML Marine Paints - Jotun Vinyguard
Caraway's advice might be worth a thought.

Yes I have, SML don't have any epoxy-free filler. The advice is sensible!

 

[burgundyben]

My mate who's helping can't be around epoxy, he is a warning to everyone, don't get it on your skin!

In the big factory just down the river from you they take exposure to epoxy very seriously.

 

[Ink]

I would use "Brummer Stopper" if it was still available.

Ink