Which Life Jacket?

[alan8376]

I am sure this has been done to death in the past, and as I believe there isn't a history forum search, I need to resurrect it again! But as new comers arrive, old questions get repeated! Which type of inflation methods do members prefer and why? ie. Manual/Automatic or Hammar!

 

[catseven]

[ QUOTE ]
I believe there isn't a history forum search, I need to resurrect it again!

[/ QUOTE ]

There is a forum search. Click on search near the top of the page and then enter 'lifejacket' as the keyword and then 1 year as the date range. Make sure 'All forums' are selected. I just tried it and found 200 threads - some of which will probably answer your specific questions. Hope this helps.

catseven

 

[Stemar]

One that works. Pretty much any jacket that meets the relevant standards will when new and will continue to do so for many years if maintained properly Part of maintenance is making sure the gas cylinder hasn't worked loose.

One that is comfortable to wear and easy to put on, so you'll actually use it.

You'll hear all sorts of arguments for and against automatic jackets, with & without harness, etc. FWIW, Here's my opinion:

The argument against automatics is that if you're trapped in rope or below in a capsize, and your jacket inflates it may make it harder or even impoossible to get out. This is true, but when you're on board, you carry a knife don't you?

Personally, I think the most likely scenario for me to go over the side is getting a belt from the boom, or slipping off the boarding ladder. Around the UK, the water's cold, so most of the year any unexpected dunking is going to be a shock to the system; even if I'm conscious when I leave the boat, I may not be able to function properly for several vital seconds after I hit the 'oggin. I'd quite like to be afloat with my head out of the water when I need to take that first breath. This is why I chose automatics.

There are two kinds of automatics, the cheaper ones which use a dissolving pill to activate and the Hammar mechanism that uses water pressure. All other things being equal, I'd probably go for the Hammar type, but they are significantly more expensive. If you spend your time on the foredeck getting soaked when racing, or you're likely to be out in really bad weather - an ocean passage, for example, I think it's worth the extra, but I sail a Snapdragon with a roller genny, so foredeck work means playing with the anchor or picking up the mooring. I don't do wet! For me, on a very tight budget when I bought our jackets, it wasn't worth the extra. I have had one jacket go off. It got dropped in the bottom of a dinghy with several inches of water, so I can't blame it. I've been out in rain & spray for for several hours and not had a problem.

I figure that the best thing to do is to stay in the boat, so if conditions are such that I should be wearing a lifejacket (other than in the dinghy, when I should be wearing it most of the time), I should have a harness and be clipped on, and if conditions are bad enough to be clipped on, I should be wearing a lifejacket for those moments when I should but it's not convenient or I'm switching attachment points, so I went for the built-in harness. So I can't slide out of the harness/jacket, I have a crotch strap. I'm told a face mask is good to have as well and I can see why, but I haven't got one. If I was doing serious offshore stuff, I'd consider it more important.

When I bought Jissel, I was given a couple of Compass automatic jackets with harness. I found the straps so stiff that it was very difficult to get the buckle done up or undone. As a result, I hardly ever wore mine. I quickly decided that I'd buy the first decent jacket I came across that was easy to put on. I found these people at a boat jumble and was sufficiently impressed to get a couple of their jackets. When I can afford to replace the harder to put on, but still perfectly serviceable ones, I expect to go with Pamaris again.

 

[Skyva_2]

Agree with all of the above. I would add that it is b***y dark at 3 am and I would add a decent light to the lifejacket. Some come with them but they can be bought separately.

Ease of wearing is important - I have Crewsaver but they are not the most comfortable and the square corners of the stole are susceptible to wear, and for some reason the velcro on the closure is very reluctant to stay resealed after inflation for servicing. They are used by RNLI but will probably look for another next time. Whatever you buy, check them frequently. I found recently that mine would not stay inflated and the cylinder was empty, and I am sure I would remember pulling the toggle!

 

[Talbot]

I have a manual jacket, primarily cause I dont have a low boom to knock me over the side, so the balance of pros and cons for me came out at manual. Mine all have integral harness.

My first jackets were sowester- good jackets, but rolled very tightly and so they wore on the fold points. Having looked at a lot of different ones I have replaced most of my older jackets with Seago. I was happy about the quality of the jacket, the ease of stowage, the comfort of wearing, and last , but by no means least, the price.

 

[Graham_Wright]

Adding to points raised;- go for a hood; Baltic have a fur collar which avoids neck chafe and remember that a hydrostatic release only works at around 1 metre depth so, if you enter the water gently, it may not inflate.

I never understood why a heavy (=fat probably) person needs a higher buoyancy (150 newtons +) than a thin one;- we are all more or less neutrally buoyant in water.