Which Knots?

xxyyzz said:
"Clove Hitch" has been variously mentioned.

What for?
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Clove hitch makes a good knot for temporarily fastening fenders. It's easy to adjust up or down to match pontoon level, but left on permanently it can easily work loose. That's why, once the fenders are at the right level, I add a half hitch to lock it.

Several people have mentioned the 'animated knots' website. I haven't found it very useful. When I'm learning knots I don't want to see the rope tying itself, I want to see the hand movements that I need to make. Surprisingly few knot books show these.

Mind you, they can be deceiving. Get used to tying a bowline with the 'flick-of-the-wrist' technique, then use it to tie the genoa sheets. 50% probability of getting it wrong, I reckon, while the 'half-reef-knot' technique works well.
 
+1 for bollards...

... and adjustability.
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If you mean a clove hitch around a bollard... If it's a single post, I'd prefer to make the clove hitch around the line itself after a few circuits of the bollard.

If it's a twin horn bollard, I'd make a few figure eights (without any reverse half hitch to 'lock' it). Same goes for making fast to cleats - no reverse half hitches over the cleat. With un-reversed hitches (ie figure eights) on top of a cleat or a horned bollard there's no chance of having to sort out a truly locked rope, worse if it's wet. Unless it's really 'jiggled', a rope will be fast to a cleat with one or two turns and a figure eight or maybe two. The part of the rope doing the work in the knot (the 'nip') is always fairly early on in the knot and the stuff after that is usually there for peace of mind only.

Banning reversed half hitches on a boat should ensure that no novice will use one to 'secure' a sheet to a winch under load. The result can be worse than a riding turn, which at least isn't reversed. The sheet or whatever should go to a cleat. If there are sometimes none spare, stick another one on. Two lines on a cleat is another no-no.

The clove hitch is adjustable, but only if you take the load off.

I should introduce myself, or at least qualify my points. I've owned a lot of dinghies, and put in a few years on bigger craft - racing in Dragons, Etchells, and offshore keelboats inc 5 Sydney Hobarts on a 48 foot steel Buchanan sloop either as navigator or sailing master.

I was taught the one handed bowline by the mate of a freighter, and could finally stop muttering about rabbits and holes.

A good idea for fenders is to leave a loop in the final turn of the clove hitch. That way a single pull on the end of the line undoes the knot and the first half hitch will roll out as you pick up the fender and pull. For the right look leaving the mooring, a crewman smartly turned out in white slacks and blue blazer should be stationed at each fender, with further crew standing by the lazarette hatch to receive the fenders (ha ha).
 
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Reef knot also very handy if you've forgotten your belt and need to use a bit of spare rope instead!

I have to say that I agree with the 8 quoted by many and now being practiced by the OP, but I have been frequently surprised by how many otherwise competent sailors have no idea of a rolling hitch (tying or use of).
 
What rock? said:
A good idea for fenders is to leave a loop in the final turn of the clove hitch. That way a single pull on the end of the line undoes the knot and the first half hitch will roll out as you pick up the fender and pull.
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Now that is banned on my boat. I've only got three and they're big and expensive. Can't be doing with losing the buggers because some clown has tied them on with a slip hitch.
 
john_morris_uk said:
One good use for the clove hitch is for when you lash a tiller. Tension the line to both sides of the cockpit after putting two loops in and reversing them to make the clove hitch in the approved 'middle of the line' fashion.
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I do this too... :)


Ladysailer: I think one thing that helps with tying/learning/remembering knots is to become familiar with the constituent parts: standing part, bight, turn, half hitch etc. Then it's just a case of remembering how they go together for the knot you want. Also makes them easier to describe: "take the standing end and make a bight"...

Some of them here... (under 'Components')

Another thing is to be familar with the 'shapes' of the finished knots - then at least you'll recognise easily when you've got it wrong...
 
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prv said:
Ah, but a round turn and two half hitches is itself a use of a clove hitch, isn't it?
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No. With two half hitches, the working part of the rope changes direction between the half hitches. With a clove hitch is always goes around the standing part in the same direction.

(read that twice and think it makes sense!)
 
I think Pete means this:

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Completely possible to do it the way you describe also (ie a larks head) - I've often wondered which is 'best' myself... but all the manuals seem to show the 'clove hitch' method.
 
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Wunja said:
No. With two half hitches, the working part of the rope changes direction between the half hitches.
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Eh? Not how I tie it. I can't quite visualise what you describe - sounds like it would result in a lark's head round the standing part (not secure) - but I'm not sure I've understood it right.

Got a picture?

Pete
 
I'm embarrassed!

Seems I have been tying a round turn and a larks foot knot since I was a cub scout 40 years ago!
 
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Touchwood said:
My dazed kipper instructor opined that the only proper use for a sheepshank was for "dragging sheep through shallow water"

Bit of a wag, he was. :)
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But a Lorryman's hitch (at least, as I was taught it by a lorryman! - the internet provides LOTS of alternative versions) is extremely useful for lashing objects down, and is essentially half a sheep-shank. Very quick and easy to tie, and provides a crude 2-1 mechanical advantage in tightening a rope.
 
AntarcticPilot said:
But a Lorryman's hitch (at least, as I was taught it by a lorryman! - the internet provides LOTS of alternative versions) is extremely useful for lashing objects down, and is essentially half a sheep-shank. Very quick and easy to tie, and provides a crude 2-1 mechanical advantage in tightening a rope.
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The only problem with that is that the tension you can apply is limited before the hitch pulls apart. I've usually only had use for that when stowing halyards that have a block at deck level. It's quite handy for tensioning it against it's self. As said though, too much tension and it self destructs.
 
Woodlouse said:
The only problem with that is that the tension you can apply is limited before the hitch pulls apart. I've usually only had use for that when stowing halyards that have a block at deck level. It's quite handy for tensioning it against it's self. As said though, too much tension and it self destructs.
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Not the way I tie it, sorry.
 
xxyyzz said:
"Clove Hitch" has been variously mentioned.

What for?
Click to expand...

To hold the tiller midships - tied by the "make two loops in a bight, then pass one behind the other" method. (Light line fixed to each corner of the pushpit).

Coincidently, the tiller cover has probably the only reef knot on our boat.

A Jug Sling is a cracker for chilling wine if there's no space in the fridge - either hang overboard or wrap in a wet towel, then hoist from a signal halyard ;->
 
mcframe said:
To hold the tiller midships - tied by the "make two loops in a bight, then pass one behind the other" method. (Light line fixed to each corner of the pushpit).

Coincidently, the tiller cover has probably the only reef knot on our boat.

A Jug Sling is a cracker for chilling wine if there's no space in the fridge - either hang overboard or wrap in a wet towel, then hoist from a signal halyard ;->
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I claim a Lakesailor...
 
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