which end of a KAD44 is this ?

!! That's the metal turbo inlet pipe.
It's meant to be that shape.

First pic shows the rear of the engine. Access there looks good if you need to change a turbo or check the exhaust hose.
Second pic shows the "front" where you need space to change belts and the sea water pump impeller.
Access on the sides looks a bit tight (oil filters, fuel filters on RHS, heat exchanger on LHS), or maybe not ... it's hard to tell from those photos.
Black box rear of the expansion tank opens sideways to change the air filter.
Valve clearances are very important on KAD44 / KAD300.

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At least its good to see that the valve clearance has been checked at least once as evidenced by the aluminium washers on the leakoff rail. The originals were copper and are covered in green paint when the engine was built. If you have a 44/300 with solid green paint on the rail and injector pipes then they haven't been disturbed, something I have pointed out to several owners over the years who had been told they had been done previously by their mechanic or workshop. And it looks like they haven't been done the quick cowboy method by bending the injector pipes where they angle up over the rocker cover, again I have seen this done by 'proff' mechanics.
If it hasn't done 200 hrs yet since they were last done then you are ok until 200hrs.
 
At least its good to see that the valve clearance has been checked at least once as evidenced by the aluminium washers on the leakoff rail. The originals were copper and are covered in green paint when the engine was built. If you have a 44/300 with solid green paint on the rail and injector pipes then they haven't been disturbed, something I have pointed out to several owners over the years who had been told they had been done previously by their mechanic or workshop. And it looks like they haven't been done the quick cowboy method by bending the injector pipes where they angle up over the rocker cover, again I have seen this done by 'proff' mechanics.
If it hasn't done 200 hrs yet since they were last done then you are ok until 200hrs.

tnx, thats v helpful. 360 hrs. doing it again does not concern me.
 
If there isn't enough slack to reroute the cable then the easiest fix is get some heater hose and cut a slit along its length and slide it over the cable so it has a thick sleeve to protect it and sevure it with cable ties. I always do this on battery cables, fuel hoses and harnesses if they pass near other components and can chafe.
 
I have just been quoted £90 for both my engines, 1.5 hrs in total, I thought that was cheap TBH but being done during full engine service.

I would be surprised if they could do this properly in that time, usually about 4 hours for both when I enquired
 
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