Which discs for Angle Grinder to clean prop

jimi

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Last year a kindly worker nearby lent me an angle grinder to clean the prop, this worked a treat turning a 6 hour job into a 30 minute doddle. I'm going to buy a Makita battery powered one as I've already got a drill with a couple of 5A batteries. Can anyone tell me what discs I should get which will clean as well as fit the Makita Angle Grinder. I'm a complete ag newbie apart for my 30 min positive experience!
 

PaulRainbow

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Last year a kindly worker nearby lent me an angle grinder to clean the prop, this worked a treat turning a 6 hour job into a 30 minute doddle. I'm going to buy a Makita battery powered one as I've already got a drill with a couple of 5A batteries. Can anyone tell me what discs I should get which will clean as well as fit the Makita Angle Grinder. I'm a complete ag newbie apart for my 30 min positive experience!
I wouldn't use grinding disks. A wire cup brush would be a better choice.

Try some brick acid first.
 

rogerthebodger

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When I clean my prop I use Hydraulic Acid To clean any fouling off then use a super fine flap disk to polish the blades,

DO NOT use a cause disk s you will grind the prop material away too much

I use superfine for polishing stainless steel for my boat
 

dunedin

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Not sure why it should be a 6 hour job. One thing we have learnt is to ensure the prop is cleaned within a few hours of the lift, before any fouling dries on. Massively easier when still damp. A plastic scraper generally works for us to get most off.
No way would I go near our expensive Flexofold folding prop with power tools.
 

MJWB

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I wouldn't use grinding disks. A wire cup brush would be a better choice.

Try

I wouldn't use grinding disks. A wire cup brush would be a better choice.

Try some brick acid first.

Brick acid cleaner works a treat for me. Picked up the tip on this forum late last year, credit to the member who advised me. Easy, no effort and brings it back to shiney bright. Got mine at toolstation. Hydrochloric acid the active ingedient. Don't use much. A bottle will last years.
 

Plum

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Brick acid cleaner works a treat for me. Picked up the tip on this forum late last year, credit to the member who advised me. Easy, no effort and brings it back to shiney bright. Got mine at toolstation. Hydrochloric acid the active ingedient. Don't use much. A bottle will last years.
Agree, brick acid (hydrochloric) from toolstation every time and never an abrasive in a power tool.
 

MJWB

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Agree, brick acid (hydrochloric) from toolstation every time and never an abrasive in a power tool.
Hey Plum. Checking back on older threads it was you and VicS who tipped me off to this. I was amazed. Will use it every time. No abrasive action. Thanks to you both!
 

jimi

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I'm reluctant to use hydrochloric acid on my prop as its a Bruntons Variprop and packed with grease. My understanding is that the acid can breakdown the grease. I'd rather use the cleaning pads as above as they cleaned quickly and effectively without damage when I used it last year.
 

Neeves

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You need to use abrasives to provide a key if you are going to paint, say with Velox or Prop Speed.

We have used a stainless steel wire brush on an angle grinder or a resin impregnated disc used to strip paint. If you use a stainless brush on an angle grinder (a cup brush?) the wires come off - wear goggles and gloves. If applicable for the OP we also stripped the sail drive leg and treated it with the same paint as the prop (as you cannot use a copper based paint on an aluminium leg).

Velox is easier to apply than Prop Speed and achieves the same end result.

Jonathan
 
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penfold

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Given you should be regreasing anyway what difference does it make? The pads are abrasive, they're wearing away that very expensive propellor. Neither method is perfect but rubber gloves aside the acid seems easier.
 

stuartwineberg

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I wouldn't use grinding disks. A wire cup brush would be a better choice.

Try some brick acid first.
+1 on brick acid. Assuming it’s bronze no need for anything abrasive. I use about a 50% dilution, the bits fizz for 15 mins, out they come, rinse, coat of hammerite special metals primer and a spray of trilux and back on. As always add acid to water, not the other way round.
 

Daydream believer

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I'm reluctant to use hydrochloric acid on my prop as its a Bruntons Variprop and packed with grease. My understanding is that the acid can breakdown the grease. I'd rather use the cleaning pads as above as they cleaned quickly and effectively without damage when I used it last year.
I have a Brunton Auto prop. Clean with acid every year. Takes 20 mins & I wash the old acid off immediately. As for the grease, I just put some more in & gently push some of the old grease out. One is supposed to top the grease up annually anyway. One can see water being displaced when one does it. Do not do it too fast as you do not want to dislodge the seals.
I do not use anything other than a scouring pad on the prop & certainly not an angle grinder. I never apply antifoul paint to the prop, preferring to polish it.
As I have Coppercoat the boat has to be jetwashed mid season anyway, so it gets a clean then, as well as the initial pre season launch.
 
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