Turnbuckle
Well-Known Member
Moody 30 needs an auto bilge pump. Any proven suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Which auto Bilge Pump?
- Thread starter Turnbuckle
- Start date
Rappey
Well-Known Member
Either a submersible that sits in the bottom of the bilge or a diaphragm type away from the water as self priming.
The submersible type can have a built in float switch.
If it's a just in case pump I would fit a submersible type with built in float switch as it would last a very very long time if never used and easiest to fit ?
The submersible type can have a built in float switch.
If it's a just in case pump I would fit a submersible type with built in float switch as it would last a very very long time if never used and easiest to fit ?
Turnbuckle
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Submersible with built in float switch it is. Any reccomended make? Can I pair the output with an existing through hull and a one way valve or will I need a new through hull?
Porthandbuoy
Well-Known Member
I’ve never been a fan of automatic bilge pumps. If you have a leak that is slowly getting worse you’ll never know it until you arrive at your boat one day to find the battery flat and the cabin sole awash, or worse.
In the ‘old days’ you’d count the strokes before the pump sucked air. Nowadays I count the seconds until my electric pump sucks, and that drew my attention to a developing problem with Ladybird’s stern tube.
I suppose you could fit a run timer to an automatic pump though.
In the ‘old days’ you’d count the strokes before the pump sucked air. Nowadays I count the seconds until my electric pump sucks, and that drew my attention to a developing problem with Ladybird’s stern tube.
I suppose you could fit a run timer to an automatic pump though.
anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-Known Member
A Rule 500 has worked well for me, keeping an uncovered keelboat 'dry'. Note though that instead of a float it starts up every few minutes - if it detects a higher motor load it keeps running until the load reduces. If it doesn't detect a load it goes back to sleep. I prefer that to relying on a jammable float, but I'd be turning it off at night if sleeping near it.
Catalina36
N/A
Steer clear of Water Witch electronic switch, I had one fail "on" and burn out the pump. Google then told me that this was not uncommon.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
This is the bilge switch I use and not had a problem for over 10 years
Hydro Air Switch | Xylem
The previous noddy donkey bilge switch would need to be replaced at lease every year.
I would not use a pump that includes a switch as if the switch fails you then have to replace the pump as well if the switch can be bypassed and fit a seperate switch anyway.
Hydro Air Switch | Xylem
The previous noddy donkey bilge switch would need to be replaced at lease every year.
I would not use a pump that includes a switch as if the switch fails you then have to replace the pump as well if the switch can be bypassed and fit a seperate switch anyway.
ltcom
Well-Known Member
Can a float switch jam open with trash and burn the pump out also?
pvb
Well-Known Member
Whale Bilge IC - solid state switching, pump can be mounted somewhere dry and accessible, reliable diaphragm pump.
Whale Marine - Products
Whale Marine - Products
ltcom
Well-Known Member
justThis is the bilge switch I use and not had a problem for over 10 years
Hydro Air Switch | Xylem
The previous noddy donkey bilge switch would need to be replaced at lease every year.
I would not use a pump that includes a switch as if the switch fails you then have to replace the pump as well if the switch can be bypassed and fit a seperate switch anyway.
looked but can't see how that works. Would you explain if poss plz.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
As the water rises in the bilge and over the bell it precedes the air in the bell and up the pipe into a pressure switch in the upper part which is mounted high above the max water level.
This is similar to how a water level switch works in a washing machine . In fact you could use a washing machine water level switch
Rappey
Well-Known Member
+One for that float switch. Having had many open boats on moorings have got through a fair few pumps and switches over a lot of years.
As the water rises in the bell and tube it pushes the air up into a small rubber balloon. As it expands it presses a micro switch which turns the pump on.
I have a similar Stuart Turner switch in my cellar sump and has been operating faultlessly for the paSt 25 years .
I'm not sure any electric bilge pump is better than others nowadays
ltcom
Well-Known Member
Cool.Thankyou
Plum
Well-Known Member
Agree, this type is very reliable although my one is a washing machine water level switch bought for £10 and connected to a length of 13mm bore hose that goes to the bottom of the bilge with the switch way above. You will nerd a relay to cope with the current demand of the pump although I just use mine for an alarm.
Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
JerryHawkins
Well-Known Member
Maybe I've just been lucky, but I had a water witch on the previous boat and have had two on the current boat for about 10 years with no issues at all. Tested from time to time and they both work as expected. I also 'invested' in a bilge pump monitor (Bilge pump activity monitor by Celectron. The BW8 Bilge Pump Activity Monitor is an aid to Marine safety). I have my two main pumps connected to it, plus two separate 'monitoring' float switches as well as my shower sump pump (where my dehumidifier drains). I can check how many times any have operated and over how many days. I've set it to alarm (sounder plus big red light) if any of the pumps run too often or for too long. It's set to alarm immediately if either of the float switches trigger - they are higher up and would only switch if the pumps cannot cope. Maybe overkill, but having had an 'experience' some years back, I'm paranoid
Refueler
Well-Known Member
I have float switches ... as you call Noddy Donkey type that are years old and still working fine ......
As regards pump with switch in one units ............ maybe take another look - as most have detachable filter / float switches and can easily be wired to a separate switch after removal of built in.
In fact you can even leave the old floaty in and just wire in another. Done that before.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
Just my experience other design/manufactures may be better that the ones I used.
I have used float switched like these in my tanks as full indicators to prevent overfilling both water and diesel tanks which work OK as its in a procted environment.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Just my experience other design/manufactures may be better that the ones I used.
I have used float switched like these in my tanks as full indicators to prevent overfilling both water and diesel tanks which work OK as its in a procted environment.
I'm actually looking to fit similar as I cannot monitor the tanks from filling points ....
With regard to 'better designs' .. I'm a cheapskate and all my combine switch pumps have been Seaflo copies ............ and I can detach parts from the pump and then replace the filter mount cage.
