Which AIS engine and plotter?


Specifically, for instrument wiring with easy spring push connections:
http://uk.farnell.com/wago/261-112-341-000/tb-wire-to-brd-12pos-14awg/dp/1283525

Many thanks Dom and Hydrozoan. Sorry about the delay but I'm now back home in the UK so catching up after the journey.

Those Wago things look like what I need and the 28 to 14 wire range looks right ....... but what do you actually have to do with these connectors? I can't see any screw heads. Does that mean that they are like the connectors from Halfords I use to join cables on car radios where you push down on the blades and they automatically cut through the insulation?

If these Wagos mean that I don't have to strip the ends off 30-odd tiny cables that would be a blessing. If I don't have to strip the cables again I will replace the choc block with the Wago as I do need to tidy-up all the wiring when I return to the boat in July as it's like a nest of snakes at the moment! :(

Richard
 
Richard - you still need to strip the wires. The lever pushes down hard on the bare wire in place of a screw in choc block. They are great.

A word of caution - they are not like choc block. What I mean is that what looks like a 2 way one (so 2 wire choc block) is in fact one connector to join 2 wires. The 3 way allows 3 wires to be joined etc. ...
 
Many thanks Dom and Hydrozoan. Sorry about the delay but I'm now back home in the UK so catching up after the journey.

Those Wago things look like what I need and the 28 to 14 wire range looks right ....... but what do you actually have to do with these connectors? I can't see any screw heads. Does that mean that they are like the connectors from Halfords I use to join cables on car radios where you push down on the blades and they automatically cut through the insulation?

If these Wagos mean that I don't have to strip the ends off 30-odd tiny cables that would be a blessing. If I don't have to strip the cables again I will replace the choc block with the Wago as I do need to tidy-up all the wiring when I return to the boat in July as it's like a nest of snakes at the moment! :(

Richard

As Red says yes you need to strip, but prob best anyway for an A1 connection. WAGO is a fantastically flexible system providing neat splicing connectors for say a new AIS (#221 Compact Connector will be suitable for your wire sizes and not the bigger one), all the way up to super fancy superyacht rail systems. Incidentally, many marine electricians use these to rebuild new main electric panels.

If I could make a suggestion, why not wait if your new system works okay: figure out if you want to install a mini-rail system, or just splice connectors with neat little junction boxes. Then stop by a store and actually have a play with some of the gear / chat with the sales chap if any good, and finally buy everything you need for the job (surprisingly cheap!)

Then take an afternoon off and if you're anything like me, it will be the first pleasant wiring job you have ever done !! It is in fact so good the other half is once again prepared to sit on the boat while I'm rewiring something ;);)

You'll find lots of helpful info here: http://global.wago.com/en/products/...tors-all-conductor-types-221-series/index.jsp
 
Thanks for the answers but it's Navionics in particular that I have.
It looks as though a dedicated plotter is the way ahead.
It looks like you are right, See: loading Navionics charts into Open CPN
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f134/loading-navionics-charts-into-open-cpn-124441.html
and
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f134/navionics-charts-124294.html
but this might be of interest on DigitalYachts site
Using Navionics+ Charts on SmarterTrack 2014

https://digitalyacht.net/tag/navigation-software/
 
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Huh?

John was asking about displaying AIS information in the Navionics app on a tablet. That thread is about people wanting to load Navionics charts into OpenCPN. Completely unrelated as far as I can see.

Pete
I was just trying a little lateral thinking along the lines that if Navionics s/w won't accept AIS, then maybe OpenCPN might accept Navionics charts.
Sorry if you were offended on Johns behalf!
 
According to Digital Yacht, the iNavX app supports Navionics charts (as well as AIS). I have no experience with that but I guess it might be John's best chance at an integrated tablet implementation.

Other than that (and Navionics own app, which as discussed does not support AIS) their charts can only be used on either a compatible chart plotter or a PC with compatible software, which will mean paid-for solutions both ways should he wish to explore that. PC Plotter is the main PC software which handles Navionics- I mention it as Digital Yacht's Smarter Track was linked above; this is just PC plotter rebranded and redistributed.

I don't think there are any other options for a Navionics solution.
 
Many thanks Dom and Hydrozoan. Sorry about the delay but I'm now back home in the UK so catching up after the journey.

Those Wago things look like what I need and the 28 to 14 wire range looks right ....... but what do you actually have to do with these connectors? I can't see any screw heads. Does that mean that they are like the connectors from Halfords I use to join cables on car radios where you push down on the blades and they automatically cut through the insulation?

If these Wagos mean that I don't have to strip the ends off 30-odd tiny cables that would be a blessing. If I don't have to strip the cables again I will replace the choc block with the Wago as I do need to tidy-up all the wiring when I return to the boat in July as it's like a nest of snakes at the moment! :(

Richard

People here tend to use ‘Wago’ as a specific term for the small (e.g. 2- and 3-way) Wago connectors with orange lever handles, but of course the company makes a huge range of connectors. With the 12-way block I linked to (they do 4- and 6-way in the same style, IIRC) you push down on the top slotted button with a small screwdriver, then insert the (stripped!) cable and release the button.

It doesn’t save stripping but was great for me in a dry but awkward location, with short ends of many instrument cables, where crimping or soldering would have been a nightmare. And being push and release, it’s much easier than screw terminals – and the grip is good and has worked fine for me. (IIRC you said you had to rearrange the cabling - much easier to do that as well, though I guess you've now got it all sorted and labelled!)
 
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People here tend to use ‘Wago’ as a specific term for the small (e.g. 2- and 3-way) Wago connectors with orange lever handles, but of course the company makes a huge range of connectors. With the 12-way block I linked to (they do 4- and 6-way in the same style, IIRC) you push down on the top slotted button with a small screwdriver, then insert the (stripped!) cable and release the button.

It doesn’t save stripping but was great for me in a dry but awkward location, with short ends of many instrument cables, where crimping or soldering would have been a nightmare. And being push and release, it’s much easier than screw terminals – and the grip is good and has worked fine for me. (IIRC you said you had to rearrange the cabling - much easier to do that as well, though I guess you've now got it all sorted and labelled!)

That is great information and that push down, insert bared wire, and the release is a system I'm familar with as some amplifiers use the same system for the speaker outputs.

So, let me ask the specific question ..... the 12 connector unit you linked to will therefore allow me to connect 12 wires on one side to 12 different wires on the other side i.e. 24 wires althogether, exactly the same as a 12 connector choc block? In fact, I actually have 28 different wires but some of these are 2 on one side into 1 or 2 on the other side so I reckon the 12 connector unit will replace my existing 2-tier choc block arrangement.

Many thanks

Richard
 
That is great information and that push down, insert bared wire, and the release is a system I'm familar with as some amplifiers use the same system for the speaker outputs.

So, let me ask the specific question ..... the 12 connector unit you linked to will therefore allow me to connect 12 wires on one side to 12 different wires on the other side i.e. 24 wires althogether, exactly the same as a 12 connector choc block? In fact, I actually have 28 different wires but some of these are 2 on one side into 1 or 2 on the other side so I reckon the 12 connector unit will replace my existing 2-tier choc block arrangement.

Many thanks

Richard

Yes, it took me a while to fathom that from the photo and description: each wire on one side to a wire on the other - 12 entirely separate ways - and the acceptable wire size range was perfect for what I wanted. I did have some 'jumpers' too, IIRC, but they were in fine cables of similar size - putting two wires in of widely differing diameters could perhaps be a problem. (Edit: well, you'd untwist the cores and re-bind and solder, of course. I think I did untwist and re-bind my similar-size 'doubles', as it's what I would do - but I didn't solder.)

PS Free delivery from CPC too, even if you don't need anything else to make up an order! http://cpc.farnell.com/wago/261-112...goryNameResp=All+Categories&iscrfnonsku=false
 
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The 3 main integrated systems are Garmin, B&G and Raymarine. Each offers essentially the same features, but have their own little features to distinguish from the others. The first to now dominate the OE market as Raymarine have lost all their big clients like Bavaria.
I didn't know that, is there a story behind it Tranona ? Or were Raymarine just the most expensive ?

Boo2
 
Brilliant! I've just ordered two as I've some other wiring to sort out as well.

Thanks to all who introduced me to the world of Wago. :)

Richard

Well ..... my two Wago 12-way connectors have arrived today ..... and I'm amazed at how hard you have to press down on the white cap to get the jaws to open. Is there a trick to this (or a "special tool") or am I just too weak and feeble? :ambivalence:

Richard
 
If they're the ones I'm thinking of, then the "special tool" is any small flat-bladed screwdriver :)

Pete

It's one of these Pete.

1283525-40.jpg


It's going to have to be a fairly chunky screwdriver. I think a small one will probably just bend! :(

These connectors have seriously strong springs!

Richard
 
It's one of these Pete.

1283525-40.jpg


It's going to have to be a fairly chunky screwdriver. I think a small one will probably just bend! :(

These connectors have seriously strong springs!

Richard

They're fine (EDIT: with a flat bladed screwdriver) when the fitting is on a bulkhead in my experience, and I was an unfit 65 year old when I did mine. You don't want the cables to pull out surely! More Weetabix!

Actually, you may be opening them up more than you need to just to get the cable in, I suspect. :rolleyes:
 
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They're fine (EDIT: with a flat bladed screwdriver) when the fitting is on a bulkhead in my experience, and I was an unfit 65 year old when I did mine. You don't want the cables to pull out surely! More Weetabix!

Actually, you may be opening them up more than you need to just to get the cable in, I suspect. :rolleyes:

I think these level type WAGO terminals might he easier to use.

http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/75293-wago-222-413-terminal-block-w-lever-3cond-4mm2.html

CN12062-40.jpg


Lots of other types of plugable terminals here

http://cpc.farnell.com/pluggable-terminal-blocks

I tent to use these if I wish to be able to disconnect easily male available in PCB or DIN rail mount.

42263426.jpg


http://cpc.farnell.com/phoenix-contact/1757019/plug-free-r-a-5-08mm-2way/dp/CN14742
 
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I think these level type WAGO terminals might he easier to use ...

I don't think Richard will actually have any real trouble with the ones he has, with a modest push in the slot with a medium sized screwdriver - and as he says the resulting grip is very secure. But the main requirement, as I understood it anyway, was for a 12-way (or thereabouts) connector capable of handling a range of fine instrument cables to replace a long choc strip, not for a collection of individual 2- and 3-way blocks.
 
I don't think Richard will actually have any real trouble with the ones he has, with a modest push in the slot with a medium sized screwdriver - and as he says the resulting grip is very secure. But the main requirement, as I understood it anyway, was for a 12-way (or thereabouts) connector capable of handling a range of fine instrument cables to replace a long choc strip, not for a collection of individual 2- and 3-way blocks.

That's right HZ - a 12 way thingy is what I was looking for so the block I have bought is perfect. I'm sure it will be fine and, as you say, opening the jaws halfway is not too strenuous and will be sufficient for the tiny NMEA wires. It's that last 50% that is the real doozy! :)

Richard
 
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