where to buy a fridge and which one?

[EuanMcKenzie]

I have an HR Rasmus without a fridge. We've been using an ice box for years but its time to add a fridge as we will have a marina berth with shore power soon.

The NAB 35 equivalent have a surface accessed fridge which is essentially a a refrigerated cold box.

I will only loose one shelf of a cupboard if I take this approach. Its going to be a DIY job as usual. Want circa 40 litres. Done some internet searching but want the questions answered that the suppliers won't tell you.

So I want to tap into the knowledge base about:

Who makes them and how do you buy direct?
is there a difference between a caravan and marine unit?
what power consumption should I expect from an efficient unit?
Is absorption or compression refrigeration the best methods?
Is it worth a hull fitting to avoid an air cooled evaporator unit and the cost?
Finally is it worth dual voltage or do I stay at 12V and just rely on the battery charger to replace what I take out of the batteries. I've just fitted a new charger that will manage this if need be?

I've found one unit so far a vitrifrigo C37 but not sure if it will withstand the marine environment.

Has anyone been there before me and can pass on their learnings?

 

[ribrage]

Take a look at the dometic web site they do a LOT of R.V / caravan and marine units and when i was recently looking they replied quickly with a pdf catalogue of products (loads) for me to browse and a price list and a large dealer network.

i have no connection with them other than recently becoming a satisfied customer.

 

[alanwilson]

I've had an Electrolux (now Dometic) for some years on a Nauticat 33: excellent apart from the piezoelectric gas ignition bit needing replacement every 3-6 years.
It works on gas, 12v & mains and is fine. It's ostensibly for a caravan, but no problems afloat. It's only once gone out (on gas), when over at 30 degrees for a day: the book says must be kept within 5 degrees of vertical, but that's not so.
A three-way power fridge may seem overkill, but is very useful: gas while sailing, 12v while motoring & mains while in a berth.
As long as you don't keep it in the cockpit, there should be no difference between a marine environment and a caravan.

 

[homer]

I would recommend a keel cooler unit which are available for Frigomatic systems. Easy to fit, more efficient and no worries about providing cooling air.
If, as it seems, you are intending to construct you own cabinet, I would give serious consideration to a front opener - so much more convenient and, if you make a well insulated door and fit it with drawers (as per a domestic upright freezer) it can be as efficient.
Either way, beyond that, it is all about insulation. I have just re-insulated our fridge and halved the power consumption.

 

[EuanMcKenzie]

i was hoping to find a preconstructed unit that i could drop in through a suitably sized cut hole.

Not keen to go down the bespoke route. I simply don't have the time to do all the work involved.

was really hoping to find someone who had found a suitable unit of that ilk

Take your point re keel cooling although its less of an issue up here where the extra heat is usually welcome.

 

[Ex-SolentBoy]

Talk to the guys at Penguin Refrigeration. The supply all the bit and also drop in boxes.

I have two from them that can be run as normal fridges or even cold enough to be a freezer.

 

[alahol2]

Waeco compressor coolboxes are the ones that usually get the praise. Here for example.
(No idea about the company but they seem to list most of the Waeco boxes).

 

[grievesie]

Boat fridges

Indel Webasto (Isotherm) make several build-in top opening fridge units:
http://www.indelwebastomarine.com/Products/us/html/9903.html They also do draw type units. Dometic (Waeco) also do their Coolmatic build-in range - I believe the CB-36 would be the cheapest unit on the market in the size you are looking for e.g. http://www.marinesuperstore.com/posit/shop/index.php?selectedpartno=0908510

I converted my existing 80L cool box using a Dometic (Waeco) CU54 cooling unit - works very well and draws around 2-3amps according to my battery monitor (around 20 and 30 amps a day depending on setting). The 12volt compressor units for both makes are made by Danfoss so reliablity is good (German). Air cooling is not a problem in UK waters as long as the unit is well ventilated and you don't mind the fan noise (tend to switch mine off at night as it close to my cabin!). Isotherm's water cooled unit that has a cooling coil in a special skin fitting to replace the galley sink outlet is more efficient then air cooling but is more costly - very quiet at night though.

Hope that info helps - I went through all the same research last year - good result though.

 

[multihullsailor6]

I recommend the Vitrofrigo C42L or C45L, depending on your space, which come with an external compressor so you can mount the fridge where you want it (high and easily accessible) and the compressor low, without going for a seperate keel-cooler. As the compressor is seperate your fridge space will be larger.
Info can be found here:
http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/shop/category/front-opening-fridges

I am in the process of ordering a Vitrofrigo C75L for the same above installation reasons.

 

[srm]

Penguine refrigeration very helpful and a wide range to choose from. Replaced a normal air cooled fridge with a modular unit. This enabled me to use a keel cooler and add extra insulation around the fridge. Tests showed a current draw of 18 amps in 24 hours. The new fridge runs 24 hours a day without shore powere whereas the old one was so inefficient it was only switched on when motoring or the wind generator was producing surplus while away from shore power.

 

[William_H]

Fridgw

Don't consider an absorbtion type fridge ie no gas. They are very inefficient.
From there much depends on your boat use. If you will operate from a powered marina berth on short voyages then a 240VAC domestic fridge will certainly be cheapest. You might find you want an inverter o it can be run off batteries or more specifically on batteries when engine is charging. This onloy if you cna fit in an off the shelf domestic fridge.
Another alternative is the stand alone 12v cooler boxes. Waeco or Engel are good in various sizes. They can be reasonably cheap. They can operate as a freezer. Make sure you get the compressor type don't be seduced by cheaper electronic (peltier) types. They suck current and don't give much cooling. They will happily run on the ships charger.
Or finally the Danfoss type kits where you build the ice box and then fit the evaporator with separate compressor condensor are very popular powerful and not too expensive.
Though really I think the Waeco or Engel range are what you need to drop into a place in the bench. All top loading. Good luck olewill

 

[catlotion]

I converted my existing 80L cool box using a Dometic (Waeco) CU54 cooling unit - works very well

+1 - we fitted one of these to the icebox on our Beneteau last year and it was the best purchase of the season! Very effective and pretty good power consumption. Frosty beers and cold enough to make ice cubes using bags on the cold plate.

 

[JerryHawkins]

Another vote for Penguine

I recommend the Vitrofrigo C42L or C45L, depending on your space, which come with an external compressor so you can mount the fridge where you want it (high and easily accessible) and the compressor low, without going for a seperate keel-cooler. As the compressor is seperate your fridge space will be larger.
Info can be found here:
http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/shop/category/front-opening-fridges

I am in the process of ordering a Vitrofrigo C75L for the same above installation reasons.

I'm just in the process of fitting my C75L. It replaces the same physical sized unit that had the compressor/condenser built in. Having the seperate compressor/condenser unit gives me an extra 15l of usable space inside the cabinet.

 

[angelsson]

I have an HR Rasmus without a fridge. We've been using an ice box for years but its time to add a fridge as we will have a marina berth with shore power soon.

The NAB 35 equivalent have a surface accessed fridge which is essentially a a refrigerated cold box.

I will only loose one shelf of a cupboard if I take this approach. Its going to be a DIY job as usual. Want circa 40 litres. Done some internet searching but want the questions answered that the suppliers won't tell you.

So I want to tap into the knowledge base about:

Who makes them and how do you buy direct?
is there a difference between a caravan and marine unit?
what power consumption should I expect from an efficient unit?
Is absorption or compression refrigeration the best methods?
Is it worth a hull fitting to avoid an air cooled evaporator unit and the cost?
Finally is it worth dual voltage or do I stay at 12V and just rely on the battery charger to replace what I take out of the batteries. I've just fitted a new charger that will manage this if need be?

I've found one unit so far a vitrifrigo C37 but not sure if it will withstand the marine environment.

Has anyone been there before me and can pass on their learnings?

Last year I bought from here: http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/page/contact-penguin-refrigeration/

Installed a keel cooler, i am in the med so no additional heat into the saloon wanted. Found them great to deal with.

 

[ffiill]

Actually so called table top free standing domestic fridges can be had for about £80 if you have the onboard space/big access hatch-with an inverter they use no more power than Isotherm/Waeco etc
In fact most of these use a standard 240v/US 120 volt danfoss compressor with a buit in inverter.
Having said that my boat marque was fitted from new as standard with a three way fridge-mine for some reason had more cupboard space and no fridge so one is going back in-I love the evaporator principal with no moving parts.You can still get diesel/parafin fridges and freezers that work on this principal which quite sucessfully allowed the transportation of frozen beef from S.America to Europe from the 1880s onwards.
Only problem is that the 12v demand on these is high as it has to heat the evaporator plate so if long haul electric compressors are probably the best.

 

[charles_reed]

Avoid adsorption, unbelieveably power-hungry and ineffective.

If you are prepared to pay a lot (but have good products) go to Penguin.

If you're a competent do-it-yourselfer, look at the Waeco and ASU-Isotherm units, the latter has a slightly more sophisticated control software, both use the same Danfoss ac units, which are the doyen of refrigerant units, with an appropriate solid-state inverter.

Whatever you do maximise the effectiveness of your insulation, apart from closed cell polystyrene you need an effective reflectant and total insulation at at least 100mm thick.

A reasonable daily (24hrs) power usage is 40AH in temperatures 28-32C. In N latitudes 10-12AH (with a 50-60 litre container).
Try and keep the compartment as full as possible - top loading is the most power-effective but the biggest headache to access.

Lotsa guff about superiority of watercooling, but lotsa problems, noise and power-usage.
Air-cooled needs careful ducting (preferably to outside) to be fully effective.

 

[KAL]

+1 - we fitted one of these to the icebox on our Beneteau last year and it was the best purchase of the season! Very effective and pretty good power consumption. Frosty beers and cold enough to make ice cubes using bags on the cold plate.

+1 again. Really easy to fit and does not run the battery bank down when on low (i.e. level 2-4) 24hr/day. We fitted 2x10w solar panels and they take care of the batteries.

We put an ice cube bag on the cooling plate when the engine's running or we're alongside with shore power - ice cubes for the scotch or G&T!!

 

[EuanMcKenzie]

great responses thank you. will review the options and keep you informed of what I finally go for.

Top loader is my preference but a pull out drawer would be most effective in terms of space utilisation so its off to the boat with the tape measure.

My hanging locker is through the bulkhead from where i am thinking of putting the fridge. Wonder if it would help putting the evaporator in that cupboard. (with some ventilation holes added to the doors.

thanks again

Euan