Where can I get one of these?

[petem]

Did I read that you're thinking of B&O for the tellys? Bit "Lifestyle" innit? You want something proper not somebody elses stuff in a fancy cabinet! Next you'll be saying that you're getting Bose speakers!

Pete

 

[jfm]

Something like this built into Oak cabinet? ...

Pete

Yup. But I need one about 450 deep (as the island unit is about 475 wide, I think) and they all seem deeper, like 500mm +. No worries

 

[jfm]

Did I read that you're thinking of B&O for the tellys? Bit "Lifestyle" innit? You want something proper not somebody elses stuff in a fancy cabinet! Next you'll be saying that you're getting Bose speakers!

Pete

Pete, seriously, please advise me. I know nowt about tellies. I hate the things, and am far more interested in the Reverso oil change system. At the moment they're planning to put (in the saloon) a B+O tv, quite big mebbe 42inch, and B+O sound. The sound machine will be a Beosound 5, http://www.bang-olufsen.com/beosound5, and there will be 5.1 sound (??) with a subwoofer somewhere plus four Beolab 3 speakers http://www.bang-olufsen.com/beolab3 nailed to the walls

In the master cabin I think they are putting Bose 321 with an iPod dock. In each other cabin they will put a Bose sound dock. Also each cabin will have a Lava TV with integrated DVD, except the master cabin will have a bigger TV and play DVDs on the Bose 321

Or something

Satellite is Sky boxes and kvh tracvision M7 sat domes

 

[jfm]

Update on the stairs. Here's what I'm thinking. Similar to above, but made steeper (by moving the bottom stair aft) to reduce headbashing/limbo. 6 steps, with riser height 280mm (not draw perfectly accurately below). Wine rack or something maybe under the second step, to decide later. I need to tidy up the detail of how the bottom piece of s/s tube attaches to the boat, but that's easy enough

 

[petem]

For TV's you are going to need something that is beautiful and fully integrated. An alternative to B&O would be Loewe kit.

http://www.loewe-uk.com/uk/products.html

Loewe are not terribly well known in the UK but there are a smattering of showrooms in London if you want a demo.

Pete

 

[jfm]

For TV's you are going to need something that is beautiful and fully integrated. An alternative to B&O would be Loewe kit.

http://www.loewe-uk.com/uk/products.html

Loewe are not terribly well known in the UK but there are a smattering of showrooms in London if you want a demo.

Pete

Ah. I have Loewe in my current Sq58 and the standard TV in the 78 is Loewe. The B+O (which is bigger than the standard) TV is an upgrade!

The Loewe on the sq58 is fine, as TVs go, but it has an annoyingly large frame around the screen. When it's off it looks frameless, just black glass, but when the screen comes on you realise there's a big border. I want the picture to go right to the edge pretty much. Anyway, I reckon LED is the way to go now; LCD is old technology. I have no idea what screens B+O use but I reckon a Samsung LED is better kit

 

[petem]

You've made a classic mistake. There is no such thing as a LED TV, they are actually LED backlit LCD TV's. Samsungs are "edge-lit" LED's - that's how they can get them really thin. I've just ordered a UE46C6530 which is prettty much top of range Samsung (without 3D). It's coming tomorrow and will be set up next weekend. The best LED lit TV's are "full array" where there are many individual LED's behind the screen. This allows certain areas to go unlit for dark parts of the picture.

B&O will probably be fine. Try and find an alternative to the Bose 321 (perhaps B&W) as these do get very bad reviews.

Pete

 

[wakeup]

Now that looks better I think because it terminates visually before the step up from the galley.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

I've just had lunch with Jimmy the Builder and EME and their delightful other halves and we looked at print outs of the sketches. Jimmy would prefer the front (actually it's starboard) fascia board of the island to be projected forward to screen off the bottom couple of steps. The steps would still be floating and independent of the island, but the triangle gap would be screened off by the fascia. I think you can argue this one either way but I'm inclined to leave the gap open; I think it looks ok. Remember, it is smaller than before because the elimination of the diagonal pole means the island unit can be made longer to tuck under the 3rd step. Also at night with the lighting under the front edge of each step it will look better imho without the screen/fascia

BTW, returning to the original subject of this thread, you'll be pleased to hear I presented Jimmy with the 4 Fairline deck eyes, so the original purpose of this thread (before the hijack!) has been fulfilled

Jfm, great to see you at lunch today, and also to meet EME. Good meal, I rather like the fact that we made lunch last such a long time that the staff locked up and went home, leaving us on the terrace - fab .

And huge thanks for the strap eyes, really kind of you - it made the 901m ride down here on the bike worthwhile!

Cheers
Jimmy

 

[MapisM]

I don't think it makes sense for the top step to be level with the deck. That's just a waste, and increases the head bashing problem on step 3. From exp with the Sq58 stairs, imho the top step needs to be a full riser height lower than the flybr deck. The flybr deck is thicker than your estimated 85mm; it's more like 125mm from face of inside ceiling to top of teak on flybr. If you take the 2015mm ceiling height minus the 200mm "free" step at the bottom, you therefore (using my approach for the top step) have to span 1940mm with 7 risers (6 stairs, but 7 risers). That's 280mm per riser, which is fine on a boat, with a full banister, (for anyone doing a quick check, a sheet of A4 paper long side is 297mm. A house staircase riser would be typically 250mm)

Re. the top step, 100% agreed. That's exactly what I meant when I said "the last one being directly on the upper deck".
Which on second thought could be read both ways, I suppose...
Actually, I mentioned that only because in your post 113 the last riser seemed to bring the last step level with the top deck - which is the reason why I modified the following drawings in posts 116 and 117 accordingly.

Now, while re-checking our drawings based on your new measure of the FB deck, I also realised that one assumption we made for the hatch opening was probably wrong. As you can see in post 112, we assumed that the opening extended approximately 160mm aft of the FB step up.
It looked like that in pic4 of post 89, which is the one we used for scaling the missing measures.
But looking also at the other drawings and the 74 pics, surely the hatch opening is aligned with the FB step up.
For this reason, the stairs should have been somewhat steeper in all our previous drawings.

I re-adjusted that in the drawing below, taking also your last thoughts into account.
But I moved the first step a BIT forward, because if you don't use the longer fascia trick (apropos, glad that JtB appreciated the idea!), imho it's better to attach the bottom s/s tube above the step up, not in front of it.
And you'll probably need a short s/s tube also on top, to attach the stair to the FB deck, because the last step arrives 135mm below the ceiling.

You might be interested to know that in this latest revision the stair angle is now 49°, which I also think is not too steep for a boat.
The clearance how you can see is still very low, but not bad enough to be unacceptable.
In a sense, it's probably better to have it low enough to force everyone to take care, rather than at a borderline level which might go unnoticed.

PS: on a side note, geez, do you really use 250mm risers in house staircases?
The commonly accepted standard around here is 180mm. And in public buildings, that's actually a mandatory limit that can't be exceeded.
Btw, as I learnt in these days, there is an architectural rule to check the so called "harmonic ratio" - if my literal translation makes sense in English - of a house staircase. According to it, the riser height multiplied by 2, plus the step depth, should be as near as possible to 640mm.
In this case, we have 280*2+230=790, whilst in our 8 steps proposal we had 250*2+210=710.
But as I said, that's a rule for the houses. In boats, most of the stairs I've seen were nowhere near this one (also with 7 steps), in terms of accessibility!

 

[MapisM]

There is no such thing as a LED TV, they are actually LED backlit LCD TV's. Samsungs are "edge-lit" LED's

Spot on re. LED backlighting on LCD panels.
But I wasn't aware that Samsung is not using the LED matrix anymore.
I've not been looking at TVs for a while, after I bought the very first LED backlit TV they produced, the F96 - which is full matrix.
And I can confirm that its blacks are really impressive in the very contrasted scenes.
It seems to me that without the matrix most of the LED advantages are lost, aside from lower consumption and thinner size.

 

[jfm]

But I moved the first step a BIT forward, because if you don't use the longer fascia trick (apropos, glad that JtB appreciated the idea!), imho it's better to attach the bottom s/s tube above the step up, not in front of it.
And you'll probably need a short s/s tube also on top, to attach the stair to the FB deck, because the last step arrives 135mm below the ceiling.

You might be interested to know that in this latest revision the stair angle is now 49°, which I also think is not too steep for a boat.
The clearance how you can see is still very low, but not bad enough to be unacceptable.
In a sense, it's probably better to have it low enough to force everyone to take care, rather than at a borderline level which might go unnoticed.

PS: on a side note, geez, do you really use 250mm risers in house staircases?
The commonly accepted standard around here is 180mm. And in public buildings, that's actually a mandatory limit that can't be exceeded.

Thanks. All agreed. Yes, agreed, 250mm riser is steep (I just walked up and and down again the 250mm riser stairs here and they are steep and not typical; you are right that 200mm-ish is more sensible for a house). But I think 280mm is still ok for 6 steps on a boat with a handrail. I'll double check some other boats today. Thanks for the further input!

 

[petem]

Instead of the Bose for the master cabin you could go for something like an Arcam Solo 2.1 with Ipod dock and satellite speakers....

http://www.arcam.co.uk/products,solo,movie-systems,SoloMovie21.htm#

Proper job!

Pete

 

[petem]

It seems to me that without the matrix most of the LED advantages are lost, aside from lower consumption and thinner size.

I largely agree but you can get more vivid colours with LED and slim screens and lower power consumption aren't to be sniffed at. BTW, I believe that the Samsung 3D models (7000 and 8000 2010 series) are edge-lit with local dimming but this is inferior to matrix local dimming.

Pete

 

[jfm]

I measured the riser height for the steps on the Sq58 this morning. The aft deck flybr stairs are 300mm, and the internal flybr stairs are 320mm. So I have no worries about 280mm on the sq78

 

[benjenbav]

If you went to 320mm (or even 310mm) risers on this, you could - I think - get step 2 rather than step 3 above the island which would give another 100mm or so of head clearance on what would be step 1 (currently step 2).

This might - however - be just enough for a tallish waitress in heels to knock herself cold on the opening surround.

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Update on the stairs. Here's what I'm thinking. Similar to above, but made steeper (by moving the bottom stair aft) to reduce headbashing/limbo. 6 steps, with riser height 280mm (not draw perfectly accurately below). Wine rack or something maybe under the second step, to decide later. I need to tidy up the detail of how the bottom piece of s/s tube attaches to the boat, but that's easy enough

FWIW and entirely IMHO, I don't think that the steps integrate enough with the galley unit. As per your and Mapism's earlier drawings, I think the galley unit should form part of the step structure with the 3rd step effectively being an extension of the galley unit countertop and the 1st and 2nd steps being sunk into the galley unit. I also think the steps should spiral thru 90 deg into the centre of the boat much like Hurricane's early pic of his boat. It's not particularly ergonomic to face the steps forward as people will be approaching the steps from aft as well as forward. This would mean a small increase in riser height but, as you say, there's scope for that. I would also move the handrail to the other side ie the outside of the curve which would tend to make it less obtrusive. Sorry, don't have a resident architect here or a CAD prog to draw it

 

[Whitelighter]

Sorry, don't have a resident architect here or a CAD prog to draw it

Well that is frnakly not good enough, we have come to expect certain standards on this thread.

Looking forward to seeing Mapis' scale 3d model with working understeps waterfall in the next few days.

By the way JFM, is there not some sort of central hub type arrangement for the entertainment/media on the boat? To have ipod docks and CD players in each cabin seems a bit last century doesnt it? Just ordered one of these for home, so I would have thought the same sort of thing must exist for the boat (assuming you cant use this system for whatever reason?)

http://www.opus.eu/summary.php?PID=1

 

[wakeup]

I think you've missed the point. Each cabin can control their own choice of music from their own personal iPods. Lots of hotels do this now.

 

[wakeup]

JFM, just another 2cs and I don't have CAD either...

As we have all agreed the incongruently lies with the interface between the steps and the work surface and I now think the fact that stairs are running over and in line with the work surface and the awkward voids created. Looking the latest drawing it occurred to me that if you were to move one half of the stand alone work unit under the stairs to fill the current access way to the galley, leaving a new access way under the stairs (with hopefully enough headroom and turn the other unit through 90 degrees and make it perhaps shallower feature cabinet under stair 3 and below it would give the whole thing a different feel as less to interfere with the interface between stairs and work surface and make a feature of the stairs rather than an add in or a hack into an existing cabinet. Perhaps not communicating this terribly well. I will see if I can go an hack the image to explain.

Wakeup