When things go wrong ... mast problems ....

Can you extend the jaws of the crutch - will give you a better landing point... this is mine..

20191019_141216_resized.jpg
 
I know ... I made mistake and too short ..... I'm thinking to slide some plastic water pipe over the ends to extend and also be kinder on the mast ...

If I drill new pivot - then the crutch Y will be lower which I need to avoid ...
 
Job was cancelled today ... guy had people to view his boat - he's selling. By time they went - sun was low and temp dropping ... and wind picked up.
All planned for 11:00am tomorrow ... give me time to get a length of water pipe as well ...
 
Watch out for sideways movement of the mast during the initial lowing. Once the lowing has got to an angle of about 60 to the horizintal the A frame will start to control any sideways movement. From Roger Shaw

Don't count on this happening. IMHO (experience) mast can swing sideways at any stage until it is fiormly locked in the crutch and especially if on water where mast weight can heel the boat to increse mast swing. A frame only holds the end of the the forestay and can't control the mast sideways. ol'will
 
William_H said:
Watch out for sideways movement of the mast during the initial lowing. Once the lowing has got to an angle of about 60 to the horizintal the A frame will start to control any sideways movement. From Roger Shaw

Don't count on this happening. IMHO (experience) mast can swing sideways at any stage until it is fiormly locked in the crutch and especially if on water where mast weight can heel the boat to increse mast swing. A frame only holds the end of the the forestay and can't control the mast sideways. ol'will
Click to expand...

This is what I've seen too often.
 
Thank you for sharing your thought processes and pictures. It has given me something boaty to think about.
You may have already considered this but would it be worth rigging a bridle on each side, fixed to the two forward stanchion bases and just long enough to make a triangle with its peak in line with the mast foot swivel point? Attaching the topping lift to each triangle peak might give you some control over the masthead in the early stages of the descent.
 
Refueler said:
This is what I've seen too often.
Click to expand...

Yeah - when I drop mine I have my mate standing on the cabin roof in front of the upright mast facing aft... as the mast comes down he shuffles forward straddling the mast to maintain the fore and aft line of the drop... I have also learnt that it's best not to hang around, once it starts coming down drop it promptly as it is only safe once it gets into the jaws... one other thing I've found, the mast often takes a bit of "persuasion" to start coming down, what we've started to do is to throw a line round the back stay to the guy on the cabin roof, a gentle pull on that will start it moving... best of luck with the drop!
 
Mast lowering or raising without the right gear and enough of the right people can be quite scary to watch.

Personally I would go up on my cam-cleat based footstep on the one good halyard, using a series of Prusiks as safety.
Assuming the rigging is known to be adequate.
I've made a prusik grip well enough on a shiny mast using a few bits of rubber hose on the loop to increase friction.
I tend to test everything when I'm about one foot above the deck.
Alternatively, while that topping lift would not be favourite to actually take anyone's weight, it should be quite adequate for holding the top of a ladder snug to the mast, if you have a long ladder. That leaves your halyard for a safety line.
 
Great Job well done.

Now you need to do the same while under way to get under the bridges.

Consider attaching your centre shroudes to raised hinges (in line with mast hinge) at each chain plate that will prevent any sideways swing.



mastup2b.jpeg
 
Having trawled the web for every bit info I can get ... I was intrigued by one guys Gin Pole .... great big wooden shoe that fitted mast base .... to keep it straight ....
It basically did a good job with only the one pole.

I've tried in past using my spinny pole but even with guys to control side movement - it was not successful as it required people to tend them as well as the mast.

It's running through my mind whether to get two stainless plates made that bolt to the pole end and then slip over the mast base bolt ... plate and nut each side (means I would change to stud bar instead of bolt) to keep plates in place ...

Having had success - the mind looks at ways to make even that easier !!

But one thing anyway - is to not have furling gear hanging like that again ...
 
Rogershaw said:
Great Job well done.

Now you need to do the same while under way to get under the bridges.

Consider attaching your centre shroudes to raised hinges (in line with mast hinge) at each chain plate that will prevent any sideways swing.
Click to expand...

Bridges .... I would actually lower at home ... pass bridges and then stop at Town Quay to raise again ...
Don't want to tempt the gods !!

If you look - I don't have chain plates ... I have inverted U bolts into toe rail. To extend those and make fixed as pivot ... would be serious work.

I did consider copying the Centaur idea of chain plates to cabin sides but my spreaders are same width total as boat !
 
Refueler said:
Having trawled the web for every bit info I can get ... I was intrigued by one guys Gin Pole .... great big wooden shoe that fitted mast base .... to keep it straight ....
It basically did a good job with only the one pole.

I've tried in past using my spinny pole but even with guys to control side movement - it was not successful as it required people to tend them as well as the mast.

It's running through my mind whether to get two stainless plates made that bolt to the pole end and then slip over the mast base bolt ... plate and nut each side (means I would change to stud bar instead of bolt) to keep plates in place ...

Having had success - the mind looks at ways to make even that easier !!

But one thing anyway - is to not have furling gear hanging like that again ...
Click to expand...


No I think your rig was great.

If you can raise the chain plates hinge point in line with the mast hinge then connect the shrouds to also hinge at that point the shrouds will keep the mast in line all the way down.

All you need is 2 lengths of chain and 6 shackles 4 to attach the chain to the lowers chain plated and the other 2 to connect to a bill dog cable clamp to attach the apex of the chain to the schrouds at the same level as the mast hinge.

Hove a look at the sketch and the :hinge lines.
 
Refueler said:
Bridges .... I would actually lower at home ... pass bridges and then stop at Town Quay to raise again ...
Don't want to tempt the gods !!

If you look - I don't have chain plates ... I have inverted U bolts into toe rail. To extend those and make fixed as pivot ... would be serious work.

I did consider copying the Centaur idea of chain plates to cabin sides but my spreaders are same width total as boat !
Click to expand...

When I was referring to chainplates I ment your inverted U bolts which in my book does the same job
 
Rogershaw said:
No I think your rig was great.

If you can raise the chain plates hinge point in line with the mast hinge then connect the shrouds to also hinge at that point the shrouds will keep the mast in line all the way down.

All you need is 2 lengths of chain and 6 shackles 4 to attach the chain to the lowers chain plated and the other 2 to connect to a bill dog cable clamp to attach the apex of the chain to the schrouds at the same level as the mast hinge.

Hove a look at the sketch and the :hinge lines.
Click to expand...


I have thought of chains - understand your idea - If I do go for mast up / down while moving on water - may go that route.....

I even thought to remove the U bolts and fit proper chain plates that slot down through the rubbing strake woodwork and alongside the toe-rail ... that way - I could in fact just have bolt on extension plates when needed. Its funny that the backstays are to traditional chain plates ....
 
Another idea - based on a YT video of a guy with large wooden block on end of wood beam ....

If I was to take one of my steel poles and get two stainless plates made ... to bolt to the pole and then have a stud bolt through mast base ... with other end of plates slipped over and nut each side >>>>>

Fixed Gin Pole.jpg
 
Refueler said:
I must say though - I am very pleased.
Click to expand...
I think you realise how important it is to stop the mast swinging side ways ............ . It nearly went tits up when your helper let go !

I find with a smaller lighter mast I can manage without a helper by standing next to the mast as i lower it ( using the mainsheet tackle .) I always have a "helper" standing by , even if not actively helping, when raising the mast.

If you use the forestay instead of a halyard you will maintain adequate support for the furling spar. Connect a halyard as safety line if you feel it is necessary but let the forestay take the load .
 
Here's another way to consider it:

Position one ladder-section such that the tops of the side-rails lean onto your spreaders. Lash the bottom of the side-rails such that the ladder-section is secure and cannot move.

Climb up this ladder-section and lash the top around the mast, above the spreaders, so it cannot move..... then climb down again.

Hoist another ladder section up using a halyard or topping lift until the top is a couple of feet above the spreaders. Climb up the first ( secured ) section and pass a loop-strop around the mast ABOVE the spreaders, secured to the top rung of this second ladder-section

Using the halyard/topping lift, hoist the second ladder section right up until you can pass another loop-strop around the mast and secure it firmly to the BOTTOM rung of the second laddersection. Ease the halyard/topping lift so that the weight of the second ladder section is taken on the second ( lower ) strop running over the spreaders.

Both ladder sections are now secure.

You may climb up, using such safety gear as you wish..... a pair of lifelines and harness, a climber's ascendeur, prussik loops..... and work at the top to free the jammed line.

( This is an adaptation of a steeplejack's technique )
 
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