Sea Change
Well-Known Member
It was about £10 and I'd bought it months previously, then a relative had flown in to Grenada with it from the UK.
So I didn't bother chasing it up.
What's inside a wired windlass remote?
- Thread starter Sea Change
- Start date
So I didn't bother chasing it up.
jane444blue
Well-Known Member
I got one too but discovered they arent water proof. So have bought a second and dug out a mobile waterproof cover. Fingers crossed for this onePaul Rainbow pointed me in the direction of this on ebay for about a tenner. It's in its third year on Jazzcat, and working well.
How much faffing with an old remote would it be worth doing to save a tenner?
jakew009
Well-Known Member
I recently fitted one of these
I initially bought one of the cheap non waterproof ones off Amazon but decided it was nasty and I didn’t like how easy it would be to accidentally activate.
The crane style one wasn’t much more money but is far better. It has a built in emergency stop so you have to knowingly activate it before you can use it.
I initially bought one of the cheap non waterproof ones off Amazon but decided it was nasty and I didn’t like how easy it would be to accidentally activate.
The crane style one wasn’t much more money but is far better. It has a built in emergency stop so you have to knowingly activate it before you can use it.
noelex
Well-Known Member
Glad to see I am not the only one using these industrial crane units
.pandos
Well-Known Member
I have one of these which I used in anger this weekend. It was fantastic. I had a wired remote on my last boat but this wireless one was so handy sailing alone.Paul Rainbow pointed me in the direction of this on ebay for about a tenner. It's in its third year on Jazzcat, and working well.
How much faffing with an old remote would it be worth doing to save a tenner?
It was seemed pretty crappy when it arrived as the battery was loose and the back did not fit properly but a bit of tape and some plastic packing fixed this ..
A wireless remote for the autopilot also made things easier..
William_H
Well-Known Member
I do not know the controller and a photo might help. However my guess is that the resistors" are in fact diodes. Diodes are used across the switch contacts or the solenoid coil to soak up back EMF. Back EMF is a voltage spike that occurs when current is stopped going through a coil. (solenoid or motor) The voltage spike is in the polarity of trying to maintain the current. (it is the power behind old fashioned spark ignition on cars) So potent. The diodes conduct the back EMF to minimise sparking a the switch contacts.
A diode is recognisable if it looks like a small cylinder with wires each end by having a band at one end indicating cathode abd often with a diode arrow symbol. A multimeter on resistance range will show no conduction in one directionb and some resitance in the other. (or check with a diode check range on the multimeter. Resitors on the other hand havee often coloured bands indicating resitance which will measure same both ways. Capacitors (small) tend often to not be cylindrical shape and have a value printed on them.
I am not sure posters ar eusing the term "micro switch" correctly. A (to me) true micro switch is ina box with a lever on one side. The operation involves flicking a over centre spring to operate the contacts with a decent force. They are generally quite reliable. Other small switches may have an over centre snap action also. (micro switches?) (whats in a name?)ol'will
Dockhead
Well-Known Member
This is a super hot tip!!Glad to see I am not the only one using these industrial crane units
I already ordered one, plus a new cord for it, to keep in my spares. I've had two or three failures of the regular handsets since I've had this boat. An expensive, stupid problem.
This is just the kind of gear you want on board -- simple, rugged, industrial, cheap. I wish more devices on board could be like that.
Dockhead
Well-Known Member
More likely diodes. The big relays are inductive loads and may need flyback protection.
I wonder if the industrial handsets have diodes in them?
CJTurner
Active Member
The Side Power remotes are encrypted..at a huge cost. Are the industrial ones? I've put a cheap as chips Chinese one on but I keep the windlass control off at the panel to stop local taxis etc triggering an unexpected drop!
Sea Change
Well-Known Member
Another reason I've not bothered to pursue a wireless controller is because it would have a small parasitic power drain. So I'd have to remember to turn the breaker off, and back on again every time I needed to anchor. Just another thing to get in the way when the guy in front is dragging in to you at 2am.
Mistroma
Well-Known Member
I suppose its what you're used to and it works for you.
We always turn off electric winch, windlass and bowthruster when finished with them. Just safer in case there's an issue. e.g. Electric Winches have been known to start unexpectedly.
The remotes are very useful in the med. when reversing onto a quay. I also use ours all the time when anchoring in busy places (almost daily occurrence here
).
Amazed they've lasted many years as they were dirty cheap and not even vaguely waterproof. I still service the Quick wired remote and refit at start of each season. I like to have a backup.
We always turn off electric winch, windlass and bowthruster when finished with them. Just safer in case there's an issue. e.g. Electric Winches have been known to start unexpectedly.
The remotes are very useful in the med. when reversing onto a quay. I also use ours all the time when anchoring in busy places (almost daily occurrence here
).Amazed they've lasted many years as they were dirty cheap and not even vaguely waterproof. I still service the Quick wired remote and refit at start of each season. I like to have a backup.
Sea Change
Well-Known Member
On both the boats I've had electric windlasses on, the breaker was pretty inaccessible, buried right up at the bow between the battery and windlass. I suppose we could fit a relay but it's a crowded jobs list and I'm not adding anything non essential to it.
I can see why a remote would be handy if single-handed or anchoring stern to. But as those are two things I've never needed to do, I will stick with my wired control, at least for now.
By the way the $8 industrial wired control from Amazon turned up yesterday. Looks very solid and chunky. I'm not sure how waterproof it will turn out to be, but it's certainly in much better nick than the one it's replacing, which is held together with tape and sealant!
I can see why a remote would be handy if single-handed or anchoring stern to. But as those are two things I've never needed to do, I will stick with my wired control, at least for now.
By the way the $8 industrial wired control from Amazon turned up yesterday. Looks very solid and chunky. I'm not sure how waterproof it will turn out to be, but it's certainly in much better nick than the one it's replacing, which is held together with tape and sealant!