John100156
Well-Known Member
Now as you know, as a former Targa-34 owner (I have to say I did love that boat) it was always the bellows that worried me, and the limited space to get to the rear of the KAD300's.....
Whats a fair price for replacing the PSS shaft seal wear parts on my boat?
Now as you know, as a former Targa-34 owner (I have to say I did love that boat) it was always the bellows that worried me, and the limited space to get to the rear of the KAD300's.....
MapisM
Well-Known Member
If DPS outdrives is what you've got on your boat, if nothing else they are slightly better than the dreaded DPH, aka the most loved outdrive ever.
Most loved by repair shops, that is!
John100156
Well-Known Member
Careful,
Peter could be starting a war, like a rag and stick against power debate........
Peter could be starting a war, like a rag and stick against power debate........
petem
Well-Known Member
Nah, mine are DPE's. With outdrives, I tend to think that different generations just have different issues. I'm not sure there was ever a sweet spot where they got everything right. After all, they have to give the dealers something to fix.If DPS outdrives is what you've got on your boat, if nothing else they are slightly better than the dreaded DPH, aka the most loved outdrive ever.
Most loved by repair shops, that is!
Pete
petem
Well-Known Member
Rear access on the T34 is a lot better than some other sport sports cruisers as the liferaft locker can be removed. And there is just enough space to crawl over the engine if you're not too fat!
MapisM
Well-Known Member
Amen to that.
In fact, we can only stand in awe of VP in this respect.
They were already at the top of this game with their outdrives, but they raised it to a form of art with IPS...
Coming to think of it, we'd better buy their shares, rather than their products!
John100156
Well-Known Member
That's me out then....... never removed the liferaft locker!
Just had to squeeze around the STB side once, as the power steering actuator dropped jamming against the engine. I was over the back of the lagoon and only had about 15 degrees of steering from full starboard lock. But using both engines and the BT, I managed (just) to get her into the marina and Flamingo dragged me onto berth.
I was thinking £1,000, £2,000, £2,500 on the way in, but it turned out once I had squeezed myself in, I just needed to blindly tighten an allen bolt, makes you feel good when that sort of thing happens, rarely....
Nito
Well-Known Member
I notice I never updated my issues on this post, there's nothing more annoying to people looking for information than posts with lots of good info and no conclusions!
After spending a day in the bilge back in July I managed to find and fix my issue of dripping PSS seals. All my measurements and my perplexity as to why my seals seemed too compressed were unfounded because the initial installers had lopped 16mm off the cuff that mounts to the sterntube to provide enough clearance to the drive and to allow for 2 jubilee clips to fit on the stern tube. Therefore my bellows were at the correct tension, and this was not the reason for the leak.
As the photos showed, the mounting faces of stator and rotor didn't seem square on to eachother. The reason for this is that there is obviously a step down on the stern tube, however the spout that the bellow pushes on to, isn't quite long enough for 2 jubilee clips. Therefore the cuff had been cut down. This removed the rubber divider ridge between the two jubilees that hold them in place and prevent them from slipping down the bellow. As a result, the jubilee at the end of the stern tube had slid forward as it slipped off the spout and was causing the bellow to kink/deflect somewhat which affected the mating surfaces. I removed the second jubilee and replaced it with a cable tie for now as a precaution, however for a long term solution I note that the cuff where the jubilees locate are 2" long on the regular bellow, but on the pro silicone version it is 1.3" and therefore better suited to my short shaft log.
With two jubilees note the compression of the bellow at the bottom near the shaft log...
Note the ridges after each jubilee to prevent the clamp from slipping...
Note that now with one jubilee fitted. You can see the cuff has been cut down compared to the PSS screenshot above, effectively one of the jubilee zones has been removed. This means the jubilee was sliding forward. As an aside, in this pic you can see I've fitted the pro clamp instead of a random jubilee clip as belt and braces behind the rotor so it cannot slide back and also there is no chance of this damaging or biting into the shaft like the jubilee can.
I adjusted the bellow a touch and also installed a cable tie to replace the jubilee that didn't fit properly, you can see the bellow immediately looks more comfortable than the first pic on this post where is looks more like a concertina....
My longterm solution is to replace these bellows with the Silicone Pro version. These have a shorter cuff at 1.3" instead of 2". There is no ridge between the jubilee clips on these which means I will be able to site the two clips a little closer to eachother which might enable me to get to clamps on and also provide a shorter overall fitment to keep it away from the V drive without needing to hack down the cuff.
In a totally unrelated incident, but something that owners should be aware of and something that has affected someone else on this thread, I noticed this summer on the otherside, some black tar like build up on the rotor of the opposite bellow where the stator meets it...
This aroused my suspicions, so after a journey out, I popped into the engine bay and had a feel of the rotor and to my surprise, but tellingly, it was quite warm. Not red hot but noticeably warm rather than completely cool as the other side was. It made me wonder about my sea water cooling and whether I had an issue with my raw water system, or if there was something caught up in the bellow or wrapped around the shaft or indeed if there was too much compression on the bellow.
This weekend I was replacing some raw water hoses as some preventative maintenance and my transmission cooler has some build up scale on them. When I got around to the inaccessible side one, I made a pertinent discovery and I'd already placed a wager with the missus that this would be the case as there was some build up on the port engine trans cooler but the stbd side was much worse. The cooling pipe was totally blocked!
The cooler that this pipe is fed from has a barbed fitting but for some reason, it is connected to an elbow whereas the other side is not. I believe this elbow is an unnecessary restriction or point that allows a build up of scale to gather leading to this complete blockage. If the pipe above looks bad, the elbow was completely solid!
I will likely be replacing this fitting for a straight barb and also replacing the blue silicone hose which had 2 worm drives on it, one of which again misses part of the barb and had started cutting the silicone. This will be replaced with a more robust hose as per the other side.
As a local boat neighbour recently said to me...the trouble with looking for problems is that you invariably find them...well I'm a believer of catching these things early and that a stitch in time saves nine. So if you are seeing that black build up on your rotors, things are getting hot, it's worth periodically having a feel of your rotor after a trip to detect any heat build up. Fortunately we'd just been pottering to our local bay at 12 knots (which fortunately is the speed above which you need forced cooling) with the odd spurt to higher speeds to give the engine a clear out but I think I've caught this just in time! I've managed to find quite a few other issues as well which I'm in the process of addressing but at least I'll soon be at a good base point and each step forward gives me more confidence in the boat.
Safe boating and given the date of this post, merry xmas folks!
After spending a day in the bilge back in July I managed to find and fix my issue of dripping PSS seals. All my measurements and my perplexity as to why my seals seemed too compressed were unfounded because the initial installers had lopped 16mm off the cuff that mounts to the sterntube to provide enough clearance to the drive and to allow for 2 jubilee clips to fit on the stern tube. Therefore my bellows were at the correct tension, and this was not the reason for the leak.
As the photos showed, the mounting faces of stator and rotor didn't seem square on to eachother. The reason for this is that there is obviously a step down on the stern tube, however the spout that the bellow pushes on to, isn't quite long enough for 2 jubilee clips. Therefore the cuff had been cut down. This removed the rubber divider ridge between the two jubilees that hold them in place and prevent them from slipping down the bellow. As a result, the jubilee at the end of the stern tube had slid forward as it slipped off the spout and was causing the bellow to kink/deflect somewhat which affected the mating surfaces. I removed the second jubilee and replaced it with a cable tie for now as a precaution, however for a long term solution I note that the cuff where the jubilees locate are 2" long on the regular bellow, but on the pro silicone version it is 1.3" and therefore better suited to my short shaft log.
With two jubilees note the compression of the bellow at the bottom near the shaft log...
Note the ridges after each jubilee to prevent the clamp from slipping...
Note that now with one jubilee fitted. You can see the cuff has been cut down compared to the PSS screenshot above, effectively one of the jubilee zones has been removed. This means the jubilee was sliding forward. As an aside, in this pic you can see I've fitted the pro clamp instead of a random jubilee clip as belt and braces behind the rotor so it cannot slide back and also there is no chance of this damaging or biting into the shaft like the jubilee can.
I adjusted the bellow a touch and also installed a cable tie to replace the jubilee that didn't fit properly, you can see the bellow immediately looks more comfortable than the first pic on this post where is looks more like a concertina....
My longterm solution is to replace these bellows with the Silicone Pro version. These have a shorter cuff at 1.3" instead of 2". There is no ridge between the jubilee clips on these which means I will be able to site the two clips a little closer to eachother which might enable me to get to clamps on and also provide a shorter overall fitment to keep it away from the V drive without needing to hack down the cuff.
In a totally unrelated incident, but something that owners should be aware of and something that has affected someone else on this thread, I noticed this summer on the otherside, some black tar like build up on the rotor of the opposite bellow where the stator meets it...
This aroused my suspicions, so after a journey out, I popped into the engine bay and had a feel of the rotor and to my surprise, but tellingly, it was quite warm. Not red hot but noticeably warm rather than completely cool as the other side was. It made me wonder about my sea water cooling and whether I had an issue with my raw water system, or if there was something caught up in the bellow or wrapped around the shaft or indeed if there was too much compression on the bellow.
This weekend I was replacing some raw water hoses as some preventative maintenance and my transmission cooler has some build up scale on them. When I got around to the inaccessible side one, I made a pertinent discovery and I'd already placed a wager with the missus that this would be the case as there was some build up on the port engine trans cooler but the stbd side was much worse. The cooling pipe was totally blocked!
The cooler that this pipe is fed from has a barbed fitting but for some reason, it is connected to an elbow whereas the other side is not. I believe this elbow is an unnecessary restriction or point that allows a build up of scale to gather leading to this complete blockage. If the pipe above looks bad, the elbow was completely solid!
I will likely be replacing this fitting for a straight barb and also replacing the blue silicone hose which had 2 worm drives on it, one of which again misses part of the barb and had started cutting the silicone. This will be replaced with a more robust hose as per the other side.
As a local boat neighbour recently said to me...the trouble with looking for problems is that you invariably find them...well I'm a believer of catching these things early and that a stitch in time saves nine. So if you are seeing that black build up on your rotors, things are getting hot, it's worth periodically having a feel of your rotor after a trip to detect any heat build up. Fortunately we'd just been pottering to our local bay at 12 knots (which fortunately is the speed above which you need forced cooling) with the odd spurt to higher speeds to give the engine a clear out but I think I've caught this just in time! I've managed to find quite a few other issues as well which I'm in the process of addressing but at least I'll soon be at a good base point and each step forward gives me more confidence in the boat.
Safe boating and given the date of this post, merry xmas folks!
