What Type of Hatch Bolts and Glue?

[pmagowan]

It should be relatively easy to build out the opening to fit the hatch. First build a jig for the hatch using some scraps of ply. Place them around the removed hatch like you are making a picture frame so that when you remove them you have an exact “hole” that the hatch will fit.
Then just use a combination of wood scraps and epoxy to build out the current hole in the deck. You don’t need to be accurate you just need to make the hole too small for the hatch. Trim it back to size using a router and your jig. You will get a flush cutting bit which will run around your jig and “transfer” the exact hole you know fits your hatch to the deck, trimming away your new framing.
Now drill appropriately spaced holes. Use butyl tape around each bolt and as a gasket for the frame. Tighten the nuts a little at a time and with balance ie not all one side first. Leave it for a few hours then remove the extruded butyl and put another turn on the nuts.
Job done.
PS everything should be cleaned properly before reattached. Lots of products hate other products

 

[Refueler]

Fashion wood infill to fill the voids ......

Get rid of the goop butyl you used .... get a proper soft gasket.

 

[ColinR]

a few years ago a shipwright used non setting grey mastic, I assume butyl, to reseat my chainplates. They then leaked (for the first time ever). I got him to redo it. Still leaked. After the third attempt I took it all apart, cleaned off the butyl as best I could and used sikaflex. That stopped it leaking. Of course its more hassle if you need to remove the hatch having used sikalflex, but how often do you do that unless its leaking? I need to reseat my forehatch and I'll go for sikaflex.

 

[The Real Flipper]

OK, so basically I followed instructions, well sort of
The butyl seemed to be finally thickening so I left the three sides not leaking alone, pulled the top bolts, and built in a frame to support the aft portion as instructed. I filled a lot of butyl on the underside exposed portion hatch, and on top of the frame I built in. And filled the bolt holes with butyl, and tightened it down. Butyl squeezed out everywhere. Tightened it down again and again then realized its just an aluminum frame and wood so I left it. I was going for wheel lug nut tight then realized that was a mistake hopefully soon enough. Yep literally everything is a learning curve with boats!

The frame pieces were cut by a local supply shop which really saved me. And the guy did a perfect job, 11mm precise and the wood fit perfectly snug before butyl so I figured it would be good.

Then I got carried away with the butyl and coated the bottom of the built frame which shouldn't be necessary but so much goop had squeezed out of the edges that I figured it was easier than cleaning up.

If it gets me through the winter I'll be happy. If I have to I'll pull it all apart clean it up with the most specific butyl cleaner I can find (unbelieveable what a mess this stuff is!) and do an entire frame, coat in epoxy, and epoxy and screw in as instructed. And I'll use either butyl tape or sikaflex next time, and a different brand than this super slow drying gunk. I know it's cheap because the stuff only touching wood also dries rediculously slow, like 4 days to 'mostly' dry.

I did the best 'quick' job I could. I'm so focused on the rudder right now. All I can think of is getting her in the water and getting some experience before winter. I'll use a composting heads if I have to. And an electric heating plate. Fine. And an electric heater and a quality sleeping bag. In other words I'll rough it as needs be. The whole idea is to sail through the winter for North Sea training.

I don't want to end up like this guy LOL. Actually I find his show really relaxing and informative.
https://www.youtube.com/c/SailLife

He spends 11 3/4 months working on boats, and a week sailing, then repeats.
Maybe now I'm discovering there is truth in his title. 'Sailing Life' IS boat work haha ;-)

 

[Tranona]

a few years ago a shipwright used non setting grey mastic, I assume butyl, to reseat my chainplates. They then leaked (for the first time ever). I got him to redo it. Still leaked. After the third attempt I took it all apart, cleaned off the butyl as best I could and used sikaflex. That stopped it leaking. Of course its more hassle if you need to remove the hatch having used sikalflex, but how often do you do that unless its leaking? I need to reseat my forehatch and I'll go for sikaflex.

Butyl is fine for hatches onto GRP, either tape or from a tube. An adhesive sealant is simply not necessary. There are chain plate designs where an adhesive sealant is required, but straight bolting onto a flat base, butyl or other non setting sealant such as a polysulphide is more than adequate.

 

[Blueboatman]

All I am going to say is ..
it gets easier?
As you learn to tackle the jobs.

Also, boats are pretty crudely banged together under the pretty trim pieces
And yet they still work without giving trouble.
I think you might be in danger of bringing bespoke 2022 perfection values to 80s production boatbuilding..that way lies madness maybe..

EDIT: Actually I am going to say something else .
You can use sikafkex to bed hatches on with.
( I replaced all 3 on my last boat , no leaks ever never never . And there were one or two ‘ iffy’ bolts like yours
And you could almost - but do not - throw the bolts away !
it sticks so well

Sticks like car windscreens to bare metal -which is what it was used for before we boatbuilders discovered it .
Purists love butyl because you might want to remove the thing in the future er easily…
I love sikafkex for
Hatches
Windows
Instead of rubber window gaskets ?
Port lights
Bedding chainplates
and deck fittings
Bedding through hulls and ski fittings
Bedding hoses onto spigots
Etc etc
So, I wish you steady progress and solutions, working through your new - to -you boat list .

 

[Hacker]

Have you ever tried to remove something that was put on with Sika? I have and it is very hard work and can cause damage to the substructure.

 

[vyv_cox]

All I am going to say is ..
it gets easier?
As you learn to tackle the jobs.

Also, boats are pretty crudely banged together under the pretty trim pieces
And yet they still work without giving trouble.
I think you might be in danger of bringing bespoke 2022 perfection values to 80s production boatbuilding..that way lies madness maybe..

EDIT: Actually I am going to say something else .
You can use sikafkex to bed hatches on with.
( I replaced all 3 on my last boat , no leaks ever never never . And there were one or two ‘ iffy’ bolts like yours
And you could almost - but do not - throw the bolts away !
it sticks so well

Sticks like car windscreens to bare metal -which is what it was used for before we boatbuilders discovered it .
Purists love butyl because you might want to remove the thing in the future er easily…
I love sikafkex for
Hatches
Windows
Instead of rubber window gaskets ?
Port lights
Bedding chainplates
and deck fittings
Bedding through hulls and ski fittings
Bedding hoses onto spigots
Etc etc
So, I wish you steady progress and solutions, working through your new - to -you boat list .

Until I discovered Puraflex 40 I used Sikaflex 291 for all sealing duties above and below the water. Brilliant stuff. I don't remember a failure with it in 25 years. This includes light aluminium window frames. It is always possible to separate items Sikaflexed together so long as shear is utilised. Lift one edge and it will always release.

 

[Blueboatman]

Until I discovered Puraflex 40 I used Sikaflex 291 for all sealing duties above and below the water. Brilliant stuff. I don't remember a failure with it in 25 years. This includes light aluminium window frames. It is always possible to separate items Sikaflexed together so long as shear is utilised. Lift one edge and it will always release.

Aye
I like Purafkex too
Could be an article there Viv?
I think Puraflex 40 cures to a slightly softer finish and therefore when I have dismantled deck fittings after a couple of years of British climate , it was easier . Hmmm ??

 

[pmagowan]

The butyl is generally better in tape form as you have far more control over it. I would definitely avoid adhesive sealant for anything that may have to come out one day. Also avoid silicone for anything. Looks like you got a good job without going SailLife perfectionist on it!

 

[The Real Flipper]

All I am going to say is ..
it gets easier?
As you learn to tackle the jobs.

Also, boats are pretty crudely banged together under the pretty trim pieces
And yet they still work without giving trouble.
I think you might be in danger of bringing bespoke 2022 perfection values to 80s production boatbuilding..that way lies madness maybe..

EDIT: Actually I am going to say something else .
You can use sikafkex to bed hatches on with.
( I replaced all 3 on my last boat , no leaks ever never never . And there were one or two ‘ iffy’ bolts like yours
And you could almost - but do not - throw the bolts away !
it sticks so well

Sticks like car windscreens to bare metal -which is what it was used for before we boatbuilders discovered it .
Purists love butyl because you might want to remove the thing in the future er easily…
I love sikafkex for
Hatches
Windows
Instead of rubber window gaskets ?
Port lights
Bedding chainplates
and deck fittings
Bedding through hulls and ski fittings
Bedding hoses onto spigots
Etc etc
So, I wish you steady progress and solutions, working through your new - to -you boat list .

Well first thanks for the encouragement. I'm pretty sure once it's in the water that will be a milestone that will make most jobs easier because I'll be able to enjoy sailing and spending time on her.

I'm working hard to resist the urge to go to perfectionist on it. The I'll never get anything done!

Have you ever tried to remove something that was put on with Sika? I have and it is very hard work and can cause damage to the substructure.

I imagine a Dremel would be a good friend?

Until I discovered Puraflex 40 I used Sikaflex 291 for all sealing duties above and below the water. Brilliant stuff. I don't remember a failure with it in 25 years. This includes light aluminium window frames. It is always possible to separate items Sikaflexed together so long as shear is utilised. Lift one edge and it will always release.

Then maybe a multi tool would be better?

The butyl is generally better in tape form as you have far more control over it. I would definitely avoid adhesive sealant for anything that may have to come out one day. Also avoid silicone for anything. Looks like you got a good job without going SailLife perfectionist on it!

Yeah that is something to consider because I am planning to buy a hatch trim at some point.
It looks really sharp, and surely better than anything I could DIY, and it fits a mosquito net, which is a nice option. And I saw one for about a hundred bucks so that's not too bad considering it's Lewmar which is pricey.

I think I would lean toward the tape next time. Though that Puraflex sounds like maybe the best of both worlds.

 

[Hacker]

Re comment about a Dremel. Multi tool with blunt blade is usually a safer bet, usually followed by a decent scraper.