What is the Best Way To Fix Battens to Forepeak Deckhead?

Habebty

Habebty

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What is the best way to fix hardwood battens to a complex curving ceiling in forepeak? I don't want to screw them up and risk going through the outside gelcoat.
I would guess at regular fibreglass resin with props to hold the batten curve until the resin had cured?
The plan is to batten out the inside of the forepeak then re-fix my droopy (but clean) headlining with cherry wood battens to the hardwood battens.
I don't really want to go down the route of stripping out the headlining which has been sewn into some complex shapes, and apart from the foam back, is in good clean reusable condition.
 
Do you know if the deck is cored and/or how thick it is?

Screws offer a huge advantage in terms of faff involved vs. props. The battens under our headlining all seem to have been screwed while whatever adhesive cured (a motly assortment of resin from the factory and foaming adhesive, black PU goo, etc. from previous owners!). They only need be long enough to offer minimal hold for a short period. You could even remove and refill with thickened epoxy after.

I’ve sometimes wondered how it might work with props… and then thought: ‘nah’!
 
Sticking them with resin is probably the best idea. If you are using hardwood for your battens you have two ways of making them conform to the required curves. The best is to steam them and then prop them in place with a few wedges or spacers at the ends and props in the middle to get them to set in the correct curve (they always spring back very slightly when cooled). Then stick them with resin. The other way is to saw the battens 3/4 way through at regular intervals so that they can flex, then stick them.
 
I fixed some using WEST 105/205 epoxy resin. Instead of having to jam them in place with props I put a few blobs of WEST G/55 quick-setting epoxy mix on the battens and held them in place with my hand until the latter hardened, which is does in 3-5 minutes. Then leave it until the 105/205 sets, which takes several hours, depending on the temperature.

All you need is a steady hand and something to occcupy your mind for a few minutes!

Next time I might try a few Velcro buttons to hold the battens while the epoxy sets.
 
dankilb said:
Do you know if the deck is cored and/or how thick it is?

Screws offer a huge advantage in terms of faff involved vs. props. The battens under our headlining all seem to have been screwed while whatever adhesive cured (a motly assortment of resin from the factory and foaming adhesive, black PU goo, etc. from previous owners!). They only need be long enough to offer minimal hold for a short period. You could even remove and refill with thickened epoxy after.

I’ve sometimes wondered how it might work with props… and then thought: ‘nah’!
Click to expand...
Thanks all

Deck not cored and about 8mm thick. I will probably go for a mix of part sawn battens and temporary screws to hold them in place. OB1 looks good, but currently doing the rounds resealing some deck fittings where the original sealant is starting to give up (after 16 years) so tend towards the idea of resin more unless OB1 is likely to perform better "indoors"?

Does one saw the battens on the inside or outside face of the curve?
 
If they are only to hold the screws for the outside battens over the lining, do they really need to be continuous? Would pads at appropriate centres not suffice, then you could use a grab it type adhesive and drill pilot holes for the screws such that say 4mm goes into the GRP for extra security.
 
I'm in same situation as OP ... looking at drooping headlining ... as with most with this - the vinyl is fine - just the foam back has failed ...

I've offered up battens to see about them holding the lining back in place without need to strip the lining and the subsequent dust / mess. Ideas of short screws with plastic cover buttons as used on furniture .. slots cut in the lining where resin can be applied to hold the battens to the GRP .... mind doing all sorts of ideas to get round doing the job 'properly' !
 
Tranona said:
If they are only to hold the screws for the outside battens over the lining, do they really need to be continuous? Would pads at appropriate centres not suffice, then you could use a grab it type adhesive and drill pilot holes for the screws such that say 4mm goes into the GRP for extra security.
Click to expand...
Good idea.
 
Tranona said:
If they are only to hold the screws for the outside battens over the lining, do they really need to be continuous? Would pads at appropriate centres not suffice, then you could use a grab it type adhesive and drill pilot holes for the screws such that say 4mm goes into the GRP for extra security.
Click to expand...

If OP is thinking to use battens to hold lining up - why have battens between lining and GRP ? Why not just screw battens through the lining to the GRP ? If its like my lining - I only need line of batten at intervals ...
 
Could always stick thin lathes of 6mm ply the opposite way with sticks like adhesive. held up with bits of 2"*1" until adhesive set. . These could be quite wide( ie 3") & need not be placed quite so accurately. fairly random in fact. Then screw battens to those across them in the correct direction. These can be more accurately placed as greater care can be taken fixing them with screws to the ply which can be carefully marked . If one gets placed wrongly it can always be adjusted easily.
It also leaves voids for wiring at a later date.
The beauty of this is that it separates the "sticking up" operation from the "aligning of the battens" process, so the battens can be easier to fix.
 
Last edited:
penfold said:
I concur, a quarter inch of GRP is not something to be drilling or screwing into unless you want a hole all the way through it.
Click to expand...

Was not suggesting that was the only fastening, the main fastening would be the 6 or8mm ply pads stuck on. clearly said that going into the GRP 4mm (OP says it is 8mm thick) for extra seecurity of the pad.

Have used this method a number of times where there are not heavy loads to deal with. Quick and simple.
 
Top Tip for gluing battens over head or holding anything temporarily, apply adhesive of your choice to the batten ie polyurethane goop, epoxy etc.
Leave a few gaps in the adhesive, Have a hot glue gun ready to go, put a squirt of hot glue in the gaps & hold to the ceiling.
In a very short time you can let go & the hot glue will hold long enough for the adhesive to set, Or you can fibreglass over the battens.
 
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